^^im^ntWilm^i 
re^^^^ ^pl 



PHI: 

Wmilh^r^^ : " : &lt; ^\ : ^!i^\\ - : \ 




SUMMER RAMBLES 



IN THE WEST. 



BY 

MRS. ELLET. 

AUTUOI; OF "PIONEER WOMEN OF THE WEST," ETC. 









m 

NEW-YORK: 
J. C. KIKEK, 129 FULTON-STKEET. 



M.DCOC.LI1I. 




E 



ENTERED, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1S53, by 

J. C. EIKEE, 
in the Clerk s Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New- York. 



JOHN F. TROW, 

49 



CONTENTS. 



i. 

Sodus Bay Sodus Point and Southern Eailroad Canal Finest Har 
bor on the Lake Beautiful View Village and School-house The 
Fourth of July Singular Incident Bay Scenery Whirligig 

Magnificent View Drives Family Burial Ground Dr. C a 

Country Seat Tea-party Musical Pastor Female Physician 
Boat Eace Dinner at the Point Family Circle Fire -works 1 

II. 

Early Start Eidge Eoad Williamson s Corners Eochester Body 
of Henry Clay Funeral Processions Crowd at Depot in Buffalo 
Beautiful Night May Flower Anecdote Naming State-rooms 
after Authoresses Lake Erie Detroit Eiver City of the Straits 
Welcome of Friends Michigan Central Eailroad Scenery of 
Eastern Michigan Ann Arbor Glen Mary Pioneer Settlers 
University Interior of Michigan Leoni A Pioneer Loss of a 
Little Boy Supposed to be Stolen by Indians A Boy Found 
among Indians Doubts and Mystery Towns Passed The Kala- 
mazoo Lake Michigan Scene of the Chicago Massacre Chicago. 14 

III. 

Late Arrival at Judge W s Western Hospitality Pleasant Drive 

about the City Fashionable Eesidences Church built of Prairie 
Limestone " The Garden City" Cattle on the Prairies View 
from Dr. Egan s Garden Parting of Streams flowing North and 
South Society in Chicago Incident of the Massacre in 1812 



IV CONTENTS. 



Mrs. K s Excursions through the Forests Panoramic View 

Pleasant Evening Galena Railroad The Prairies Fox River 
Stage Coaches Disagreeable Passengers Rock River Rain and 
Sloughs Discourteous Traveller Perilous Night Journey 
Changing Scenery The Lead Region Galena 32 

IV. 

Galena Stay at Captain Gear s An Early Settler Remarkable Es 
capes in the Mines Marriages of the Earliest Traders with Indian 
Women Story of Dr. Muir and his Indian Wife Galena in Ear 
ly Times Its Present State The Lead Mineral Name of the 
River Aspect of the Town Social Spirit of the Residents Ex 
cursion into Iowa First View of the Mississippi Picturesque 
Scenery View of Dubuque A New Cave Call at the Proprie 
tor s Log Cabin Entrance to the Care A Story of Humble Life 
The Exploration Drive Home A Rattle-snake " Tete des 
Morts".., ... 47 



V. 

The Steamer Ben Campbell Captain Orrin Smith Cheapness of Tra 
velling Punctuality of Western Boats Extension of Privilege 
River Scenery Dubuque Early Modes of Navigation Superb 
Views Prairie du Chien Fort Crawford Bad Axe River Prai 
rie de la Crosse Character of the Woods Arrest of a Murderer 
Mississippi Bluffs Fate of Lester -Catlin s Rock Mount Trom- 
bolo Magnificent Scenery Wabasha Prairie A Recognition- 
Indian Legend Winnebagoes Colony of Settlers on the Prairie 
Lady Passenger Savage Children Lake Pepin Legend- 
Dress of Female Passengers Maiden s Rock Story Dakota Vil 
lagePoint Douglas Red Rock Little Crow The Sioux Dead- 
Indians on Board Locality of a Massacre Pig s Eye Bar Land 
ing at St. Paul Rice House Excitement on a Steamboat Ar 
rival 59 

VI. 

St. Paul Rapid Improvement Episcopal Mission Presbyterian 
Pastor The First Newspaper Prospects of the Missions Mur 
der of a Teacher at Pembina by Indians Catholic Schools The 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

Maine Liquor Law in Force Expenses of Living Wages Dakota 
Indians Their Dress and Habits The Winnebagoes The Upper 
and Lower Town Drive to Spring Cave Entrance "Waterfalls 
Features of the Country View of St. Paul Sioux Woman 
Cooking Condition of the Wild Indians The System of Annual 
Payments McLean s Eemarks The Present System of Farm 
ing 77 

VII. 

" The Grand Tour" The Stage Coach A Land Hunter His Know 
ledge of Literature Carts from the Eed Eiver Drive to St. 
Anthony Imposing View of the Falls St. Charles Hotel Town 
of St. Anthony The Falls Spirit Island First Discovery of 
the Falls Falls on the West Side Excursion Lake Calhoun 
M. Brissette Lake Harriet Camp in the Woods Falls of Minne- 
haha View of Fort Snelling, etc. Situation of the Fort In 
dians receiving Supplies Indians Playing Cards Hunting Party 
Mendota Carver s Cave Lakes in Minnesota Claims Eoad 
from St. Paul to Crow Wing Cold, Boiling Spring Eum Eiver 
Mille Lacs General Character of the Scenery Tamarac Swamp 
Winnebagoes Sank Eapids Watab Eoute to Lake Superior 
Winnipeg Lake The Scalp Dance Sandy Lake Crow Eiver 
The Undine Eegion Valley of the Minnesota Eiver Traverse des 
Sioux Le Sueur Trade with the Indians 89 

VIII. 

New Lake Discovered First Exploration Minnetonka Curious Sa 
cred Stone Party for an Excursion thither Setting out Lake 
of the Isle of Eed Cedars Wild Country Oval-shaped Mound 
The Outlet The Hermit s Lodge Ascend the Outlet Lake 
Browning Lake Bryant Point Wakon Third Lake Islands 
Fourth Lake Chain of Lakes Ancient Hunting Ground Camp 
ing out Uncomfortable Night Extensive View Eeturn to St. 
Anthony 114 

IX. 

Valley of the St. Croix Eoad from St. Paul to Stillwater The 
" Black Hawk" Descend the Mississippi to Point Douglas Cot 
tage Grove Lake St. Croix Willow Eiver Stillwater St. 






vi CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Croix Kiver Paint Rock Fine Scenery Marine Mills Sand-bars 
The " Standing Cedars" Eock Island Wild Gorge Falls of 
St. Croix The Village Its History The Saw Mill The Dells 
Taylor s Falls The Old Log Store-house View from a Hill in 
Wisconsin Prospects of the Country Murder in 1848 Execu 
tion of an Indian Routes to La Pointe Lake Pokeguma Mr. 
Ansell Smith Winters in Minnesota Wild Rice Mode of Ga 
thering it Bateau Voyage to Marine Mills Forest Tract West 
of Taylor s Falls Sunrise River Valley of the Sunrise Goose 
Creek Prospects of the Farming Settler Snake River Greeley s 
Farm Kettle River St. Croix Lake Bois Brule River Eastern 
Tributaries of the St. Croix Chisago Lake Van Rensselaer s 
Island Hay Meadows, Tamarac Swamps, and Cranberry Marshes 
Pine Lumber Proceeds of the Lumber Trade 13G 

X. 

" The Book-woman" Enamored Indian Mistake Incident at the 
Rice House Leave Minnesota Demonstration towards a Riot 
" The Nominee" Galena Mrs. Harris " Woman s Rights" 
A good Sermon Lowness of the Rivers Visit to the Lead Mines 
Descend the Mississippi Ground on Rocks Tedious Delay 
Montrose Flat Boat Floating down the Rapids by Moonlight 
Keokuk Hydrophobia among Travellers The St. Paul Daven 
port and Rock Island Fort Armstrong Bluffs at the Mouth of 
the Illinois Alton Drive to Bunker Hill Fort Edwards Pio 
neers Mournful Tragedy Burial of the Murdered Building of 
the Fort Bunker Hill 163 

XI. 

Clay Cottage Wolf Ridge Woodburn Prairies Effect of Drought 
Home of a Pioneer Family Visit there Singular Unsociability 
Another Prairie Home and History Anecdotes of Early Settlers 
Romantic Incidents in the History of a Family A Foundling 
Adopted Story of its Parents Romantic Scheme The War 
Search for the Lost Happy termination of Trials 177 

XII. 

An Aristocratic Prairie Home Drive thither A Deer on the Prai 
rie A Pleasant Day History of a Pioneer Woman of the West 



CONTENTS. Vll 



PAGE 

Kemoval of Nealy to Tennessee Mary s Capture by Indians 
Attempt to Escape Adventures Shooting a Deer Taken into 
Michigan Murder of an Infant Two Years Captivity Eemoval 
to Detroit Mary s Escape and Concealment Voyage down the 
Lakes and St. Lawrence Eiver Challenge to a British Officer 
Travel through the Snow Hard Lodgings Attack of Illness- 
Labors through the Winter Journey to Virginia Exploit at the 
Ferry on the Susquehanna Mary s Brother hears the Story Sets 
out to Search for Her The Meeting Eeturn Home Marriage 
Incidents of Peril from Indians Character of Mrs. Spears Prac 
tises Medicine Anecdotes Removal to Illinois Incident of a 
Journey Death of Mrs. Spears Monticello Female Seminary 
Illinois Female College Defective Education of Women Miss 
BeBcher s Plan Menagerie and Scene at Bunker Hill The Bor 
rowing System" Helps" 190 

XIII. 

The Missouri Eiver The Mound City The Planter s House in St. 
Louis Spiritual Manifestations Style of Dress View from the 
Court House A New Orleans Steamer Punctuality Eailroad 
from Alton to Springfield Courtesy of a Farmer Adieu to Bun 
ker Hill Springfield Another instance of Western Courtesy 
Difference between Southern and Western Chivalry Eailroad to 
Naples Jacksonville Hotel Accommodation at Naples " The 
Summit" Illinois Eiver Pekin Peoria Illinois Lake Peru 
La Salle Chicago Michigan Central Eailroad Climate of the 
Lakes Eoute to Minnesota , 224 



XIV. 

Early History of the Lake Superior Eegion Successive Explorations 
The Seat of Chippewa Power Scenery of the Lakes Lake Hu 
ron Mackinaw St. Mary s Eiver Saut St. Marie Indian 
Life Fishing in the Eapids Going over the Eapids Alpine 
Scenery of Lake Superior Grandes Sables Grand Island Pic 
tured Eocks Kewecna Point Manitou Island Copper Harbor- 
Eagle Harbor Porcupine Mountains Features of the Country 
La Pointe Chippewas Story of Ondaig 238 



Vlll CONTENTS. 



XV. 

The Mammoth Cave in Kentucky" Bells " Hotel at the Cave En 
trance Kentucky Cliffs Rotunda Grand Arch The Church- 
Stone Houses within the Cave The Star Chamber The Gothic 
Avenue The Haunted Chamber The Gothic Chapel The Gi 
ant s Coffin Fat Man s Misery The Bacon Boom Side-saddle 
Pit The Bottomless Pit Martha s Vineyard The Holy Sepul 
chreThe Black Hole of Calcutta The Dead Sea Styx The Na 
tural Bridge Echo Eiver Blind Fish Cleveland s Cabinet 
Snowball Eoom Diamond Hall Eocky Mountains Dismal Hol 
low Serena s Harbor Goram s Dome Bats Chamber Lake Pu 
rity Incident in the Cave White s Cave 256 



SUMMER RAMBLES. 



I. 



DURING- a visit at Sodas Bay, in June, 1852, an 
excursion was arranged, as far as Detroit and Mil- 
waukie, to be extended farther if agreeable company 
should be found. Some weeks had been passed at 
the house of a relative on the banks of this lovely 
sheet of water, the scenery about which is not sur 
passed on the southern shore of Lake Ontario. The 
Bay, it may be remembered** lies midway between 
Oswego and the mouth of the Genesee Eiver, a few 
hours sail or drive from each. Its head is some 
twenty-five miles from the line of the Albany and 
Buffalo Eailroad, and the direct railroad from Syra 
cuse to Eochester passes much nearer. The " Sodus 
Point and Southern Eailroad," about thirty-five miles 
in length, is now in progress; its design being to cross 
the new one between Eochester and Syracuse at the 
village of Newark, in "Wayne County, and connect 
1 



2 SUMMER EAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

with, the Canandaigua and Corning Eailroad about 
^:e: Ti dles Borih of Penn Yan, in Yates County. It 
is part of a great trunk line of railway from Lake 
Ontario to Washington City, intersecting at right 
angles the thoroughfares of nature and art which 
connect the valley of the Mississippi and the Lakes 
with the Atlantic cities, and running through the 
only natural opening in the great range of moun 
tains separating the Atlantic from the Mississippi 
slope, the valley of the Susquehanna. The Sodus 
Canal, connecting the Bay with the Erie Canal, is 
also in progress. The advantages afforded by these 
facilities of transportation, with the superiority of 
Sodus Bay as the finest harbor on the lake, sur 
rounded by a fertile and populous farming country, 
cannot fail ere long to make it a prosperous place of 
business ; while the beauty of its rural scenery will 
tempt many residents of our large cities to a summer 
sojourn in its vicinity. The lover of nature in her 
wildness and romance, however, will dread the trans 
formation of those wooded headlands and islands into 
smooth fields and county -seats inevitable as such a 
change must be in the progress of things. 

It is said that a Scotch gentleman employed in 
the earliest survey of the country, after a ride through 
the deep forest, came suddenly in view of the bound 
less expanse of Ontario, and was so affected that he 
threw himself from his horse, and knelt in thankful 
ness that he had lived to behold so glorious a scene. 
The spot where this occurred, little changed by culti 
vation, may still awaken similar emotions. It is on 



SODUS POINT. 3 

the summit of a bluff overlooking the water ; the 
smooth greensward is entirely free from underwood, 
but shaded by maples, beech and chestnut trees, hung 
with clusters of the wild grape-vine, which form the 
most beautiful natural arbors, wreathing the boughs 
in the utmost luxuriance, till they droop with their 
load of leaves. Behind is a charming dell, where a 
beechen grove is close enough to exclude the sun, 
while the winds from the lake have swept clean its 
grassy carpet. The banks break off in a perpendicular 
descent, and below, the blue waves are rippling and 
sparkling on the pebbly shore. Where the horizon 
joins the deep, repose piles of silver clouds edged with 
crimson, and the whole west, at sunset, is glowing with 
gold and purple, the rays spreading in many a brilliant 
streak across the bosom of the waters. The village is 
in sight : there is the school-house, with children play 
ing on its green lawn, and many pretty cottages 
tastefully ornamented with the woodbine and honey 
suckle, and white houses with gardens filled with fruit- 
trees and shrubbery. 

Sodus Point a small village, where still reside 
some of the early pioneers in this section of country 
has become a favorite place of resort in summer, for the 
fishing and hunting afforded in the neighborhood, as 
well as its exquisite scenery. An Episcopal church is 
in process of building, and many new houses, for 
which there is an increasing demand. The place of 
worship has hith rto been at the village of Sodus, six 
miles distant, where there are several churches. The 
beautiful views afforded from the windows of any of 



4: SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

the houses, cannot be impaired by cultivation. The 
lake is on the left, while the bay stretches far to the 
right, its sparkling waters, like a vast mirror set in a 
frame of deep green, encircled by its bold and wooded 
shores. Eastward, a lofty bluff rises above the lake, 
and along the banks of the bay, garlanding the whole 
Point, are groves of chestnut, tall, old and majestic, 
flinging their shadow on the calm waters at their feet. 
These groves were in former years places of meeting 
for rural pic-nic parties, and are still used for that 
purpose. 

The 4th of July, 1852, was here celebrated by a 
rural fete ; an oration was delivered in one of the 
groves, followed by a substantial repast, and a rustic 
dance, in a spacious arbor arranged for the occasion, 
with a fine display of fireworks in the evening, in front 
of the two hotels. The scene brought to mind many 
celebrations of the national festival in different spots 
on this shaded peninsula. One took place on a strip 
of land on the other side of the channel, where an old 
pioneer a counterpart to Cooper s " Leatherstocking " 
lived alone with his family, chiefly by hunting and 
fishing. Being fond of social gayety, he took upon 
himself, on this occasion, the office of entertainer. A 
calf and sheep were barbecued whole, after the primi 
tive fashion, and huge pots of vegetables were set to 
boil over the fires kindled in the open air. The 
ladies of the company arranged the more delicate 
portions of the repast. The time till dinner was spent 
in what might be called a regular celebration of the 
day. The Declaration of Independence was read by 



FOURTH OF JULY. 5 

one of the citizens ; then the orator was called upon 
for a speech ; and after that a rustic poet rose and 
rehearsed some indifferent verses in honor of his 
country. This done, the banquet, the portion of the 
celebration certainly most relished by all present, com 
menced. The wines drunk were of home manufacture, 
made of currants or gooseberries ; yet they seemed to 
inspire as much wit and good humor as the most 
costly imported ones. After dinner, the different 
parties dispersed : some to walk on the clean, pebbly 
beach ; some to go on sailing excursions, or watch the 
fishermen ; while here and there might be seen groups 
seated in the groves, passing the hours away with jest, 
and story, and song, till the lengthening shadows 
warned them that their day of festivity was closed. 

At another celebration of this anniversary, a singu 
lar incident occurred. Several parties engaged a 
schooner for a short excursion upon the lake, and as 
the day was calm and bright, it was not thought 
necessary to employ any other seamen than the two 
lads who had charge of her in cruising up and down 
the bay. The different groups on board were merry 
enough, and cheerily bade farewell to their friends 
upon the pier, who watched their bark as she moved 
like a white-winged bird over the waters, her masts 
gay with pennons, and her deck crowded. There was 
one, however, insensible to mirth. He was insane: 
but his madness being of a gentle and melancholy cast, 
he was suffered to go wherever he pleased. He was 
fond of mingling in scenes of this kind, though his 
pale, sad face, and wasted figure might, if they had 



6 SUMMEE RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

been noticed at all, have thrown a gloom over the 
gayety of the company. He sat at one end of the 
deck, wrapped in his cloak, though the day was warm, 
never smiling at any of the jests uttered in his hearing, 
but apparently enjoying, as much as he could enjoy, 
the fresh air, and their swift motion through the water. 
He had once, himself, been in command of a vessel, 
and loved nothing so well as a " rover s life." 

They had been out scarcely an hour, when they 
were overtaken by one of those sudden tempests so 
common on our great lakes. Clouds began to swell 
upward from the edge of the horizon, rent by angry 
streaks of lightning ; and the wind increased to such a 
degree, that the waves occasionally broke over the 
deck of the vessel. As it often happens, the party on 
board did not become sensible of their danger till the 
storm was upon them. It grew more violent ; and to 
add to their alarm, it soon became evident that the 
imperfect skill and strength of the young seamen were 
quite insufficient to manage the vessel. Without 
careful management, they could not hope to make the 
harbor, but must inevitably be driven further out, and 
beyond the reach of help, should help be required. The 
confusion became general. At this moment, the crazy 
captain, who had sat motionless for a long while, sud 
denly rose to his feet, walked across the deck, and in a 
commanding voice, began to give directions for the man 
agement of the vessel. His orders were instantly obeyed. 
All knew his skill and experience as a sailor, and none 
doubted that in this hour of danger his aid was invalu 
able. He threw off his cloak, and went vigorously to 



SODUS BAY. 7 

work ; measured the wild waters with, a calm and prac 
tised eye, and soon set all right. In a few moments the 
vessel glided safely between the narrow piers, and as 
she sailed over the smooth sheet within, her passen 
gers found time to thank the poor maniac, whose 
timely exertions had been of such use to them. 

One of the prominent headlands seen in sailing up 
the bay, was many years since improved by a com 
munity of Shakers, a branch of the Society at Lebanon. 
They disposed of their land and buildings, and removed 
elsewhere. But the hill, crowned with their little 
settlement, has a cheerful aspect, and contrasts with 
the wild and solitary appearance of another headland 
to the west, covered with dark green woods to the 
water s edge. There are three islands of considerable 
size in this bay. The largest is partially cultivated, 
and is a beautiful site for a country residence. The 
others are richly wooded to the water, and their bold 
shores are only approached by fishermen, when they 
draw their nets laden with the delicious treasures. The 
water is so clear, you can see the shells and stones on 
the bottom at a great depth, and watch the uncon 
scious fish sporting about the tempting hook. As far 
as our eye can reach, the bay is dotted with fishing- 
boats, and some are drawing their nets on a little 
sandy shoal, scarce broad enough to enable them to 
moor their boat. Now a fresh breeze springs up, and 
the swell increases. The sport is over for the present. 
The small boats retreat behind the islands, where they 
are sheltered from the northwest winds. 

In winter, this noble sheet presents a beautiful 



8 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

spectacle. The ice is several feet in thickness, and 
abundantly strong enough to bear a sleigh and pair 
of horses. Its surface is clear as glass, and is an 
admirable field for skaters, who cross each other s 
path like spirits, wearing, however, very unghostly 
apparel : to wit, coarse overcoats, caps and mittens. 
Not long since an ice-boat was constructed here, water 
tight, made to go on runners like an ordinary sleigh, 
and furnished with ample sails. By proper manage 
ment, a vehicle of this kind might be made to sail in 
almost any direction, propelled by the wind. 

Here, also, in dearth of winter amusements, a 
whirligig is sometimes set up on the ice. A post is 
firmly fixed in the centre, and a wheel, made to re 
volve by horse-power, whirls about a small sled, 
fastened to it by a rope. The sled describes a circle 
proportioned to the length of the rope, and flies with 
immense velocity. This was at one time a favorite 
amusement, though an extremely dangerous one. JSTot 
only is there danger that the rope will break, and send 
the vehicle no one knows whither, but the ice in 
some spots may be thin. The "channel," a broad 
line through the midst of the bay, seldom freezes so 
as to be crossed safely, and is always carefully avoided 
by those who pass from one shore to the other. 

At the head of navigation, a bridge crosses the 
bay, and here is a magnificent view. The eye can 
now measure the extent of the bay. Its smooth ex 
panse is bounded on either side by an irregular line of 
bold shore, covered with thick woods ; its islands rise 
abruptly and majestically from the deep, and it is im- 



SURROUNDING SCENERY. 9 

possible to imagine the fine effect of those hills of dense 
foliage, in contrast to the fair blue of the waters on 
which they rest, and on which peacefully sleep their 
broad shadows. The wide, calm sheet of water, 
whether ruddy with the last rays of the sun, or lightly 
rippled by the breeze, is a sight of indescribable 
beauty. In the remote distance is the fringed line of 
white sand that incloses the bay, and beyond, the 
boundless lake. 

The woods along the shore afford some beautiful 
rides and drives. Sometimes young and slender trees 
on either side of the path meet overhead, and form a 
canopy excluding the sun; festoons of wild grape 
vines hanging thickly over the boughs. The culti 
vated country, sloping on every side to the water, is 
rich with the most luxuriant vegetation ; pasture lands 
of fresh green are varied by fields waving with the 
yellow harvest. Neat looking farm-houses are scattered 
in every direction ; and some pretty, ornamental cot 
tages, fronted by groves of chestnut and other young 
trees, may be seen close to the water. A little culti 
vation would convert the woodlands into a fertile, 
smiling country, and rich harvests would well reward 
the farmer s toil. 

On the eastern shore in a sheltered situation, is a 
stately grove of elms, shading a spot consecrated to af 
fection and sorrow. It is a family burial ground ; the 
inscriptions on the monuments tell us that a young 
mother and three lovely children repose here, They 
sleep not more peacefully, thus lulled by the murmur 
of waters and the rustling of foliage, than in burial 
1* 



10 SUMMEE RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

places less .secluded and romantic; but the solemn 
beauty of their resting-place is pleasant to friends who 
visit the sacred spot. 

But it was on a joyous occasion that our westward 
tour was discussed. Dr. C s beautiful country- 
seat, three miles north of Sodus, is the admiration of 
every passer by, for the tasteful disposition of its 
grounds, the picturesque views it affords, its ornament 
al flower-gardens and neat mansion. It is surrounded 
by a plantation of young locust trees, and a thick grove 
of these, on one side, is almost impervious to the sun 
at noonday. A winding avenue, shaded with trees, 
leads from the gate to the door, where the visitor ever 
meets that hospitable and cheerful welcome, which en 
livens like the sunshine. From the verandah, the 
pillars of which are wreathed with flowering vines, the 
blue line of Lake Ontario appears through the distant 
woods, and the intervening space is filled up with clus 
ters of forest trees, smooth fields waving with grain, 
and an orchard rich with the promise of golden stores. 
On this occasion a large party of guests from different 
directions within four or five miles, was assembled for 
a rural tea-drinking. They had come at an early hour 
in the afternoon, according to country custom, and 
were walking over the grounds, admiring the rare 

flowers which had been the special care of Mrs. C 

and her sister, or inhaling the cool and fragrant breeze 
at the drawing-room windows opening on the piazza, 
listening to music that might have graced a city con 
cert room. There was no lack of lions, chief among 
whom was the pastor of the parish, endowed by nature 



MUSICAL PASTOR FEMALE PHYSICIAN. 11 

with extraordinary musical talent, which had been 
highly cultivated, and with a voice whose full and rich 
melody might be envied by a professed artist. He was 
master of several instruments, it was said, and had 
taken much pains to improve the sacred music in his 
church, somewhat to the discontent of concert-hating 
gossips, who thought "the nasal twang heard at con 
venticle" in old times, better than modern innovations. 
There was also a lady practitioner of medicine from a 
neighboring village, in advance of the recent move 
ments, for she had been a professor of the healing art 
nearly twenty years. Her studies were prosecuted 
with her husband, a physician of established repute, 
and under his auspices she commenced practice, hav 
ing her own set of patients, the number of which soon 
increased rapidly. Both continued to ride their res 
pective rounds in attendance on the sick, the lady em 
ployed chiefly by the suffering of her own sex and for 
children, and possessing the entire confidence of all her 
acquaintance. It may be supposed that consultations 
were held in difficult cases. 

Since our meeting on that occasion, Dr. Gr. has been 
called from this world. His many virtues and sincere 
piety had endeared him to a large circle of friends, 
and the whole community mourn his loss. Mrs. Gr. is 
a woman of admirable energy, and has reared a large 
family of children, attending to the concerns of her 
household, as well as her professional duties. Those 
interested in the establishment of a medical college for 
women, should publish reports of the cases treated suc 
cessfully in her practice. 



12 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 



In our company were also several descendants of a 
heroine of the Revolution, whose eventful history has 
been elsewhere recorded. When the hour came for 
parting with our friends, it was amusing to see the im 
patience of the horses attached to the several carriages, 
whose compelled stand-still for so many hours had 
been something of a contrast to the social enjoyment 
of their owners. They pranced, and snorted, and 
started, and there was not a little fright and confusion, 
as one party after another took their places, and were 
whirled away with unaccustomed rapidity down the 
road. It was a sweet moonlight evening, and fresh 
with the breath of young summer ; and long will that 
pleasant re-union be remembered by those who had 
part in it. 

On the third of July the fourth falling on Sunday 
there was a boat race from the bridge near the 
head of the bay, some miles down. The day was 
bright, but the northwest wind, which often blows 
fiercely from the lake, was very high, and lifted the 
waters in foam-crested waves that threatened destruc 
tion to the small but gallant crafts which, with all 
their sails set, were beating resolutely against the driv 
ing gale. From the chestnut grove in front of my 
brother s residence, an elevation overlooking the bay, 
it was interesting to see the boats cross swiftly from 
one side to the other, each strained to its utmost speed 
to distance competitors and obtain the prize, its sails 
almost dipping into the blue waters, and the sailors 
displaying their skill in the sudden turns made on 
every tack. Many guesses were hazarded at first as 



BOAT RACE DINNER FAMILY CIRCLE. 13 

to which would be successful, but the question was 
soon set at rest, as one slender vessel shot ahead, and 
continued to maintain its superiority. On the fifth 
our family party dined at Wood s hotel, at the Point, 
occupying a division of the table where some eighty 
country folk were seated to make merry on the good 
cheer, consisting of roast pig, goose, and mutton, pud 
dings, tarts, and fruits of the season, without wines or 
any beverage stronger than lemonade. Such is the 
regular routine of Independence dinners in the coun 
try, and may it be long before our stout farmers intro 
duce in their social gatherings the deleterious drinks 
esteemed indispensable to metropolitan hilarity ! 

Our departure for the West had been appointed the 
following day, and as our circle did not expect in 
months to meet again, the afternoon and evening were 
passed quietly. Little Willie and Max were every 
where, taking part in the busy scenes around them 
with the earnest delight of boyhood, and our beau 
tiful Florence, with her sweet fairy laugh, echoed all 
the mirth she saw, joined heartily by her cherub 
brother Charlie, three years old, opening his large dark 
eyes in wonder at so many strangers. It was late in 
the evening when the fireworks were ended, and hav 
ing invoked many blessings on the dear children, and 
bidden adieu to numerous friends, the travellers re 
turned to the hospitable mansion of Mr. F., making 
preparations to set off at four o clock the next 
morning. 



14 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 



II. 



VERY early in the morning we took our places three 
ladies, and a young gentleman who was to be our es 
cort in a large covered carriage, our luggage following 
in a wagon, and commenced the journey to Roches 
ter. The road kept the lake in sight for about three 
miles, and many a picturesque view was afforded as we 
emerged from some shadowy dell, or a portion of the 
primeval forest, of the limitless expanse of blue waters 
sparkling with the earliest sunbeams. At Sodus we 
took the "Ridge Road," which runs along a continu 
ous ridge three or four miles from the lake, supposed 
to have been in former ages the boundary of the 
waters. Here we were joined by Mrs. R., who with 
her son was to be our companion to Detroit, her hus 
band and Mr. F. accompanying us as far as Rochester. 
As the day advanced, the heat was intense, and the 
dust from roads that had not known showers in many 
days, almost suffocating. We stopped for an hour s 
rest at Williamson s Corners, and were cordially in 
vited by the landlady to partake of lunch from a table 
loaded with the remains of Independence cheer ; frag 
ments of roast pig, huge hams dressed with cut paper, 



EOCHESTER HENRY CLAY. 15 

segments of chicken pie and other delicacies, claimed our 
attention, but a glass of cool lemonade was much more 
acceptable. We resumed our journey, and after skirt 
ing the picturesque marshy bay which reaches up 
several miles from the lake between a range of wood 
ed hills, entered the city of Kochester a little after 
two, just too late for the expected train. We did not 
so much regret the delay, as it afforded time for re 
moving the dust of our drive, and a walk about the 
city. A large hotel near the depot of the railroad was 
our stopping place for three hours, and afforded an ex 
cellent dinner. After a suitable rest some of the party 
set off on a shopping excursion, but had scarcely 
crossed the street when the shrill whistle of the engine 
and rush of the cars announced the arrival of the east 
ern express train ; and forgetful that three quarters of 
an hour were lacking of their starting time, our inex 
perienced travellers made all haste to check the bag 
gage arid secure seats. The large depot was hung 
with black drapery, and crowded with people wearing 
badges of mourning ; for the body of Henry Clay was 
to be brought in the "lightning train" from New- 
York that day, on the way to Lexington, Kentucky ; 
and the mistake of supposing it aboard the evening 
express car was very general. At every station along 
the road we found funeral processions, with solemn 
music and the booming of cannon, and other signs of 
mourning, the same impression seeming to prevail, 
that our train bore the remains of the illustrious states 
man, and the people coming from every direction to 
pay the last token of their respect. The crowd at 



16 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

Buffalo was immense, and it was with some difficulty, 
having an inexperienced guide, that we threaded our 
way to the omnibus which was to convey us to the 
steamboat. Such a confusion of tongues, and clamor 
of porters, and hurrying to and fro of passengers, each 
intent on his own business or pleasure, and jostling 
regardlessly against his neighbor! The increasing 
darkness, and vehement altercation of the agents of 
rival lines for passengers, with the thousand and one 
directions bawled out in every variety of tone and 
temper, and the rumbling and rushing of vehicles and 
feet quite bewildered us, and with a confused notion of 
being carried in the whirl we knew not whither, we 
could hardly be persuaded even to trust the represen 
tations of the honest driver destined for the May 
Flower. 

The night was still and beautifully clear, and its ro 
mantic repose contrasted strangely with the wild and 
thronged aspect of the shores and decks of the several 
boats bound up the lake. The busy tread of men 
passing and repassing, the rolling of barrows, the 
shouting and calling, and rapid conversation, the 
crowds pressing on board, and over all the streaming 
light of the lamps, formed a scene we were glad to es 
cape by retiring as soon as possible to the magnificent 
saloon of the steamboat. The traveller who has a 
ticket on this line, the Michigan Central, need give 
himself no trouble about his luggage. The elegance 
and luxurious comfort of these boats are unsurpassed, 
with their spacious and richly furnished state-rooms, 
sumptuous tables, and ample provision for the ac- 



THE MAY FLOWER. 17 

commodation of large numbers, and the most consid 
erate attention is given to provide for every possi 
ble want. One meets with more of this gratifying 
sort of attention at the West than elsewhere, and I 
have been struck with the intelligence of some of the 
servants. A lady somewhat noted as a writer was not 
long since complimented by a colored stewardess, 
who came to her state-room to pay her respects to one 
whose works she had read. On being asked how she 
knew her, she replied that she had recognized her by 
a portrait recently published. A curious fancy is that 
of naming the choice state-rooms after authoresses of 
distinction, and it sounds rather comical to hear that 
" somebody in Mrs. Barbauldissick,"or u a gentleman 
wishes to speak with a lady at the door of Hannah 
More," or "some ice is wanted in Mrs. Hemans." 
Several living female writers of celebrity are thus dis 
tinguished on board the May Flower. The apartment 
occupied by Jenny Lind is still adorned with its regal 
decorations, and was appropriated by a newly wedded 
pair. 

The starting of the boats from Buffalo was delayed 
till near midnight, their usual hour being nine in the 
evening. The stars were reflected in the bosom of 
Erie, which was scarcely ruffled by the light breeze as 
we swept onward in our floating palace. We had no 
rough weather or sea-sickness to mar enjoyment of the 
trip, and the passengers appeared pleased with them 
selves and every thing about them. If they were 
not, it was no fault of the officers or the arrangements. 
We now began to feel ourselves once more within the 



18 SUMMER EAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

bounds of the Great West, where the very air is bra 
cing with the spirit of freedom and enterprise. We 
entered Detroit Kiver without much thought of the 
historical associations connected with it, and saw the 
sunshine dancing merrily on its green waters, as we ap 
proached the city of the straits, with a feeling of pleas 
ure that we had been safely brought over a perilous 
part of our journey, and were soon to be greeted by 
smiles of welcome from loving friends. We landed at 
Detroit about four o clock in the afternoon, in time 
for passengers to take the evening train to Chicago, 
where they would arrive early on the following 
morning. 

Three of our party proceeded to our friend s house, 
and were welcomed in a charming family circle. We 
had time to talk over the chances and changes of the 
year that had rolled away since we last met. One engage 
ment had taken place, and a lovely young girl who 
shared the perils and delights of our voyage up Lakes St. 
Clair, Huron, and Superior, and enslaved a score of 
hearts, having at last surrendered her own, was soon to 
wear the bridal veil. No wonder that the days pass 
ed rapidly, and the 20th of July came, before we were 
actually upon the journey so long anticipated. It was 
four o clock in the afternoon when, accompanied by 
several friends, we drove to the spacious depot of the 
Michigan Central Kailroad. The completion of this 
extensive and beautiful road opened new prospects for 
the whole State, and an expeditious and easy commu 
nication between the Atlantic country and the north 
west. It saves the perilous voyage up the great Lakes, 



EASTERN MICHIGAN. 19 

and when the communication to Galena is complete, 
will .make it a "quick step" to the Mississippi. The 
morning train for Chicago left Detroit at nine o clock; 
the evening at five. It is worthy of notice that both 
in leaving and returning, the depot is kept clear of the 
clamorous crowd of hackmen, porters, and " runners," 
who usually confuse the traveller at a stopping-place, 
so that ample room* and leisure are afforded to have 
every thing done in order. The same propriety is ob 
served on the entire route from Buffalo westward. 

The country is level for many miles after leaving 
Detroit ; only redeemed by the slightest possible 
undulation from the flatness of prairie-land, yet fertile 
with rich fields of ripening grain, patches of meadow, 
and tracts of heavily timbered land. Occasionally 
new " clearings " remind one of olden times, and 
the log houses are generally very neat in their, 
appearance. There is a peculiar beauty in these 
woods : the trees are lofty, and have more spreading 
tops than is usual in the primeval forest. Extensive 
groves, or rather orchards, of the " weeping elm," with 
its luxuriant trailing foliage, the straight, tall trunks 
entwined with the wild creeper, give a picturesque 
loveliness to the landscape. Their drapery, though 
of brilliant green, brings to mind the stately southern 
swamp trees, covered with the moss that waves like a 
shroud among their leaves. Here and there clusters of 
young oaks, looking like a nursery of fruit trees, and 
thickets of bushes fringing some winding stream, 
vary the forest scenery. Passing two pretty villages, 
we find the country more varied and broken as we 



20 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

approach Ypsilanti, a thriving little town, with broad 
streets well shaded by old forest trees, and many 
country seats tastefully adorned with gardens and 
groves. The winding Huron, flowing gently along to 
mingle its clear waters with Lake Erie, is as serpentine 
as the Housatonic. The track crosses it seven times 
within a few miles. It is the pride of Washtenaw 
county, and has been called, by a -resident poet, " the 
bright, swift river of the bark canoe ; " but its day of 
romance is over, now that the cars, with their freight 
of busy energies, rush past its waters twice every day. 
Bordered by thick bushes, bending willows, or oaks, 
or bursting from the close embrace of the woods like 
a nymph from her leafy bower, it gives us glimpses of 
enchanting scenery, and presently the eye is caught 
by one of the peculiar features of a Michigan land- 
. scape, the oak openings. The dense forest, with its 
luxuriant garniture, is varied here and there by park- 
like slopes, thinly sprinkled with ancient oaks, shading 
a greensward enamelled with wild flowers, or partially 
covered with an undergrowth of dwarf bushes. Occa 
sionally, groups stand at intervals in the open space, 
and groves of young trees, most gracefully disposed in 
the picture, rival the art of the landscape gardener. 
The uplands swell gradually into hills, which are of 
imposing height around Ann Arbor, all adorned with 
these beautiful openings. A winding dell, stretching a 
mile or two from the village, affords the most charming 
of walks under the shade of oaks and elms that sturdily 
maintain their right of soil : it is called " Glen Mary " 



ANN ARBOR. 21 

and I believe had a title to the name before the one 
which has been made classic by a poet s reveries. 

The village of Ann Arbor has now nearly four 
thousand inhabitants, several churches of different 
denominations, a flourishing Female Seminary under 
the care of the Misses Clark, and a University main 
tained by the State. The first settlers came about 
1824, and lodged for some weeks under the shelter of 
their sleigh-box and a rude bower of trees covered 
with buffalo-skins. This primitive arbor, or the beauty 
of the oak groves, furnished a name to the place, and 
the prefix "Ann," was given in honor of the name of 
the wives of two of the pioneers. The first garden 
was on the spot now occupied by the public square, 
and formerly a place of council for the Indians. The 
village, with its surroundings of fine natural scenery, 
is often visited by travellers, and is important as the 
site of the first established literary institution of 
Michigan. The buildings, half a mile from the town, 
are neat and spacious, and advantageously situated ; 
the ground commanding superb views on every side. 
The library is not large, but is well selected. A fine 
building, a few rods across the green, is appropriated 
to the Medical department, and four handsome houses 
at the corners, with large gardens, are occupied by the 
Professors. 

We spent the evening with a most agreeable family 
in Ann Arbor, two of the members of which were to be 
of our travelling party. Several of the kind neighbors 
came in, with friendly counsel and good wishes, and 
well laden with these, we stood on the morrow a little 



22 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

before eleven, at the de pot, awaiting the rapidly 
approaching cars. The day was excessively warm, 
and a prolonged drought rendered dust inevitable, 
though the large and commodious cars, clean and 
luxuriously furnished, and not too crowded, offered 
all the comfort that could be had under the circum 
stances. Nor should we forget to notice the care for 
the traveller s refreshment so quietly manifested in 
the provision of pails of iced water, both on the cars 
and at the stations, invitingly arranged with dippers at 
hand, and calling forth mental expressions of gratitude 
in such weather. 

The rapid view obtained of the interior of Michigan, 
while one is whirled along at the rate of twenty -five 
miles an hour over the great central road which 
traverses the peninsula, gives one an agreeable idea of 
the country. Its general features are soft and pleasing, 
without strikingly picturesque scenery; bespeaking 
fertility of soil and careful cultivation, with the pros 
perity attendant on such circumstances. The villages 
have a clean and thriving aspect ; and the winding 
streams that now and then coquettishly break upon 
the sight, crossed by the iron track and disappearing 
in the embrace of the woods, with the clear lakelets 
bordered by strips of marshland or clustering foliage, 
are most refreshing to the eye. The Huron thus 
lingers for many miles, as if unwilling to be lost to the 
traveller s view. Everywhere the beautiful wild oak- 
lands border the road, and stretch onward for miles. 
Sometimes these groves are so close and umbrageous 
as almost to have the character of woods ; again, they 



LOST BOY. 23 

are stately parks of ancient looking trees, with broad 
patches of sunshine lying between their shadows on 
the waving, wild grass. There are many thick nur 
series of young oaks growing up to form these majestic 
orchards in time, if not removed by the hand of " im 
provement," which has already made devastation in 
the beauty of the undulating landscape. 

Leoni is a township had in remembrance as the 
place where many of the conspirators involved in the 
late trial for a conspiracy to injure the railroad, lived ; 
and the mischief was said to have originated here 
abouts. One of the accused was an early emigrant to 
Michigan, by the name of Filley, whose misfortunes 
excited sympathy and interest in all who heard his 
story. The circumstances resemble those of the 
capture of Frances Slocum at Wyoming, familiar to 
readers of our border history, and are worth relating 
as illustrative of the dangers to which pioneer residents 
were exposed. 

Ami Filley was a native of Windsor, Connecticut, 
and in 1831 married a daughter of Colonel William 
Marvin, of Granville, in Massachusetts. Three or four 
years after, he removed with his family to the locality 
afterwards occupied by the town of Jackson, in 
Michigan. It was then a wilderness. He settled here, 
and by industry and good management soon found 
himself in possession of a productive farm, while by 
the rapid incoming of emigrants, the place grew into a 
populous and flourishing village. Numerous tribes of 
Indians were in the vicinity, and whole wandering 
families often visited the homes of the white people, 



24 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

yet an amicable understanding always prevailed be 
tween them, and nothing had occurred to disturb these 
friendly relations. 

In August of the year 1837, Filley s little son, a 
child five years of age, was taken by Mary Mount, 
the hired girl, into a swamp a mile or so distant, to 
gather whortleberries. The father at that time was 
in the field harvesting : the swamp was not far from 
the residence of the girl s father, and one account 
states that Mary was joined by her sister. The boy, 
it seems, became tired or sleepy, and wanted to go 
home ; and about four o clock Mary took him to the 
road and told him to run on to Mount s house, which 
was in sight, and wait for her. When she had picked 
her supply of berries, she went to her father s, but 
learned that little William had not been there. Sup 
posing that the child had gone home, she proceeded to 
Mr. Filley s, but found he had not returned. The 
alarmed parents instantly set out to search for him, 
and were assisted by the neighbors, for the news soon 
spread through the village and its vicinity ; watchfires 
were kept up all night, and though in the midst of 
harvest, all labor was suspended, in the anxiety every 
one felt for the recovery of the child. . For more than 
a week the search was kept up, day and night, and 
every rod of ground, every nook and thicket, were 
thoroughly examined for more than thirty miles 
around. Every pond and stream was dragged, and as 
an encouragement to continue the search, Filley offered 
a reward for the recovery even of the body of his 
child, in the papers printed in different parts of the 



STOLEN BY INDIANS, 25 

country. Some had suspicions of foul play, and a 
careful search was made, not only in the swamp, but 
on Mount s premises ; even the floor of his cellar was 
taken up ; but nothing was found to justify proceedings 
against the girl. One circumstance pointed conjecture 
in a different direction. Two miles from the swamp, 
on an Indian trail, a paper with a picture was found, 
which it was remembered the little fellow had as 
a plaything when he was last seen. When asked 
if he had ever any difficulty with the Indians, which 
might have caused feelings of animosity towards him, 
Filley called to mind that he had once struck one of 
them, who had been in the habit of coming with his 
companions and helping himself at his house to what 
he liked. Filley had remonstrated against this in 
trusion and robbery several times, and when he en 
forced his reproof with blows, the savages departed 
with threats of vengeance. The little boy had always 
been fond of them, and it might be that they had 
retaliated by stealing him. Another cause of resent 
ment is said to have been Filley s having ploughed up 
an old Indian burial-ground. 

Inquiries were made among the different tribes and 
families in the vicinity, and large offers of reward ten 
dered to the chiefs and leading men, but no satisfac 
tory result followed. Mr. Filley left his home and 
traversed the wilds of Michigan, Wisconsin, and Iowa, 
in the hope of gaining some intelligence, but all his ef 
forts were vain, and he returned to the heartbroken 
mother with the sad certainty that their little William 
was lost ! 



26 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

For several years the stricken family endured this 
worse affliction than the bereavement of death ; for had 
they buried their child, time would have softened grief, 
and the certainty that his pure spirit had taken its 
departure to a world of happiness, would have been a 
deep consolation. But the awful uncertainty that hung 
over his fate, and the reflection that he might have 
fallen into cruel hands, or be brought up amidst scenes 
of violence and bloodshed, caused an abiding sorrow. 
As time rolled on, hope was extinguished, but the lost 
one was not forgotten, and every hour of peace was 
darkened by the harrowing thoughts and fears associ 
ated with their calamity. The mother became the 
prey of a lingering disease, and at length sank into the 
grave. 

Some time after Mrs. Filley s death, letters were 
received from Filley s former residence in Connecticut, 
in which mention was made of a boy taken from some 
wandering Indians in Albany, supposed to be the same 
who had been stolen in Michigan. The authorities of 
the city hearing that a white child was with the savages, 
caused the arrest of those who claimed him, and en 
deavored to compel them to confess whence he had 
been brought. The Indians, however, obstinately re 
fused to make any disclosure, though alternately coaxed 
and threatened, and were finally dismissed, the boy 
being placed in the Orphan Asylum. In 1844, a Mr. 
Cowles, of Tolland, Massachusetts, happening to be in 
Albany, heard of this boy as one suitable to have bound 
to him as a servant, applied for him and took him 
home. His history was told as an interesting one, and 



BOY FOUND. 27 

not long after, the Eev. Dr. Cooley, of Granville, who 
visited the place and heard the story, came to the con 
clusion that it was no other than Filley s son. He had 
heard the details of the loss from the boy s grandfather, 
Col. Marvin, near whom he had lived. He immedi 
ately communicated to Marvin the information obtained, 
and no time was lost by the latter in sending the tidings 
to Filley, who happened then to be on a visit to his 
old home in Connecticut. He went at once to Tolland, 
where the lad still remained, and from an account that 
was circulated in Jackson the following year, it seemed 
that he was firmly convinced, by the appearance of the 
boy, that he was no other than his own. The boy had 
a distinct recollection of having been sent to school 
among white children ; he also recollected that at his 
old home there were two babies, who were always 
kept in a box together ; this was really the case, as 
Mrs. Filley had twins. After his capture, he had con 
stantly resided in the same family, which consisted of 
four Indians Paul and Phebe Ann Prye, Martha 
their daughter, and a man who lived with them. They 
adopted the white child as their son, and he was taught 
to believe that he was really so ; in fact, he supposed 
himself an Indian boy, and was not aware of any differ 
ence of complexion or blood till he was taken away 
from his companions at Albany. The first place he 
remembered visiting was Green Bay, of the scenery of 
which he gave a tolerably correct description. In 
travelling thither the Indians either went or returned 
by water, as he remembered being on board a steam 
boat. In their wanderings he would sometimes be 



28 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

sent to beg clothes or food for himself and the family. 
During the summers they made peregrinations through 
Michigan and New- York, occasionally visiting Con 
necticut, and at one time were encamped at Stonington 
for several weeks. In the winters they quartered 
themselves in wigwams, in the neighborhood of some 
village, subsisting on rabbits and other small game, 
and feasting sometimes on bullfrogs. They manufac 
tured baskets, with which they often sent the boy to 
the nearest grocery to buy whiskey. He remembered 
particularly living near Detroit, Utica, Brothertown, 
Catskill, and Hudson, and being several months at 
Hillsdale, in New-York. Both in summer and winter, 
in all their wanderings, he travelled barefoot, suffering 
often from cold, hunger, and fatigue ; but the kindness 
of his Indian sister, who was very much attached to 
him, made his life cheerful. 

The circumstances of the case rendered it highly 
probable that this was the lost boy ; age and appear 
ance corresponded, and the father s first conviction was 
that he indeed embraced his son ; but doubts afterwards 
arose as to his identity. Filley returned to Michigan 
without the boy, to the astonishment and chagrin of 
his friends ; and in time circumstances came to light 
which tended to show that this lad was the son of an 
Indian woman, by a man of wealth and high political 
standing, in Columbia county, New-York, who had 
threatened the mother with punishment if she revealed 
the child s paternity. 

The mystery that enveloped this case has never 
been cleared up. Filley does not believe the boy his 



INTERIOR OF MICHIGAN. 29 

own, though many of his neighbors and friends are 
inclined to think otherwise, and suppose him influenced 
by the stepmother s unwillingness to receive the young 
stranger. His relatives, on the other hand, cling to 
the belief that it is the lost William, and the boy is 
now residing with Filley s sister, in Windsor, Connec 
ticut. 

Jackson, situated on a stream called Grand Eiver, 
is a place of considerable business, and has the State 
Prison, a large and long building, which shows to ad 
vantage about half a mile from the road. At Albion 
the Female Seminary, a Wesleyan Institution, stands 
on an elevation commanding a fine view. The build 
ings are spacious and neat, and surrounded by exten 
sive grounds. 

The heat became intense as the day advanced, the 
dust seemed to thicken, and the stoppage at Marshall 
for dinner was hailed with pleasure as affording a few 
moments for at least partial ablutions. By the time 
these were made, the passengers who filled up the long 
table had nearly finished their repast ; a venture among 
them was not to be thought of by timid women, be 
sides that the ominous whistle gave notice that the 
train was in readiness to start ; so we were forced to 
be content with a square bit of cheese and a few crack 
ers purchased in haste from the clerk, who reproached 
us for having wasted so much time in needless prepa 
ratories, needless in sooth, so far as the preservation of 
neatness was concerned, for we could not " stay dusted " 
five minutes. Here we had the first sight of the pretty 
stream called the Kalamazoo Kiver. The oak groves 



80 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

all along are enamelled with wild flowers, the loveliness 
of which might escape the eye of the ordinary travel 
ler, but - will reward attentive observation. M 
counted forty-five varieties on the way, the botanic 
names of which she duly noted down ; she is an enthu 
siast in the science, and will find enough to delight her 
in our north-western trip. 

Not far from Galesburg is the deserted institution 
of " Alphadelphia," established by some disciples of 
Fourier a few years since. After leaving Mies, the 
hills become more prominent and the country more 
broken, and occasionally covered with patches of heavy 
timber. Some of the log cabins were rude enough to 
remind us of pioneer days, and built in that primitive 
style the logs projecting at the corners. After an 
hour s travel, the whistle announced that we were near 
New Buffalo, and the boundless expanse of Lake Michi 
gan, all ablaze with the beams of the westering sun, 
burst on the sight. The track takes a southward turn, 
and shortly after crosses the line of Indiana, keeping 
the lake in view for some time, till its blue waters 
vanish behind masses of dense foliage. Before long 
we come upon tracts of prairie land, extending from 
the head of the lake. Here and there a cabin or shanty, 
rudely constructed, is the home of laborers who have 
found employment on the road. The women at work, 
and the men smoking or mending fishing-tackle out of 
doors, afford a picture of emigrant life hardly suited 
to the advancement of a railway ; here it is simply 
homely, while it would be poetical a few degrees fur 
ther north and west. The scene of the Chicago mas- 



CHICAGO. 31 

sacre in 1812, is hereabouts.* The sunset glow was 
yet lingering in the west as the train stopped, about a 
mile out of the city of Chicago. The handsome depot 
not being finished, ttie passengers arriving were at the 
mercy of rival hackmen, of whom, in other stopping- 
places on the route, the way was kept pleasantly clear. 

* See PIONEER WOMEN OF THE WEST, Memoir of Mrs. HealcL 



32 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST, 



III. 



THE sky darkened while Mr. C. was waiting to get 
our luggage together, amidst a scene of confusion and 
clamor, and we were glad to find ourselves gathered 
into the carriage belonging to the Hamilton House. 
Two of the party were first to be driven to the house 
of Judge W. We knew not an inch of the way, and 
the driver proved as ignorant as ourselves, for he 
carried us in every direction about the city in search 
of the new residence of the family,, who had removed 
from their old one a few days previous. We stopped 
in front of a score of houses with lawns and "a new 
gate-post, 7 but at last lighted upon the mansion, pleas 
antly situated on Michigan avenue. It was past ten 
o clock, however, and the lower rooms were ominously 
dark, while a faint glimmer in one of the upper win 
dows showed that the last sitter up had retired. A 
stout knock or two caused the movement of the light, 
and presently Mr. and Miss C. were received within f 
while we only waited the removal of the luggage. But 
the kind gentleman of the mansion came out the next 
moment, and insisted that Miss S. and myself should 
share his hospitality. In vain were our reiterated re 
fusals ; in vain our representations of the sad condition 



HOSPITALITY. 33 

to which the day s travel had reduced us ; in vain our 
promises to come on the morrow ; persevering kindness 
overruled all objections. We were led into the house 
with injunctions to be careful about stepping among 
the boards and fresh plaster mixed for use, and imme 
diately supplied with the abundance of cool water re 
quired as the first thing necessary to comfort. I must 
not forget to notice that the proprietor of the Hamilton 
House, with Western courtesy, refused to depart from 
his rule of transporting passengers without charge, 
though we did not become his guests. 

There are many degrees of welcome, and many 
different ways of expressing it, more grateful to the 
heart than any demonstration through the medium of 
customary phrases. Miss Sedgwick somewhere says her 
ideal is realized, when the new comer is received with 
an unclouded brow in a house so crowded that the 
young lady has to sleep on a lounge in her room, 
where she tells her beloved guest the news of the fam 
ily. Brighter still is the token, when the friends of 
the guest, and her friends friends, are for her sake re 
ceived to home and heart, though the unfinished house 
be still in the hands of masons and carpenters ; when 
the sweet lady of the mansion and her charming 
daughter prepare with their own hands (the servants 
having retired) the late meal for the refreshment of 
weary and dusty wanderers, who are somewhat doubt 
ful if less than " all great Neptune s ocean " will suf 
fice for a thorough cleansing ; when no scheme of go 
ing to a hotel will be listened to, and strangers are 
made to feel at home by such heartfelt genialities of 

2* 



34: SUMMER EAMBLES IN THE WEST, 

kindness as only heart-proceeding courtesy could de 
vise. The kindness was the more cheering, as one of 
the ladies in our party suffered all next day from ill 
ness which required the quiet and care of a home for 
her restoration. 

A pleasant drive on the following morning showed 
us Chicago in its best and busiest aspect. The streets are 
broad and not too compactly built up, and the city gen 
erally is spacious and open, and has an airy appearance 
albeit the plank streets in its business part are far 
from clean. The Chicago Eiver winds its serpentine 
course through the midst, and vessels sail on its bosom, 
the bridges opening to let them pass through, and 
closing immediately for the passage of carriages. The 
most desirable and fashionable residences are on Mich 
igan avenue, between which and the lake is an in 
closed strip of public land, set out with trees ; it will 
form in time one of the most magnificent drives in any 
city on the continent. The prairies extend on all sides, 
far as the eye can reach, level as the blue expanse 
they border, and sending over the thronged city the 
breezes sweeping across their boundless wastes. Many 
of the better class of houses have pretty gardens, and 
a space for shrubbery in front, and in the principal 
avenues there is room for the planting of trees by each 
proprietor between the side-walk and the street. One 
of the curiosities of the place is the Presbyterian church, 
semi-gothic in architecture, and built of a variegated 
blue and black limestone brought from the prairies. 
The marine hospital is built of cream-colored Chicago 
brick. The principal hotels are in the heart of the 



SOCIETY IN CHICAGO. 35 

town, and built substantially, without pretension to 
ornament. The city is growing fast, and has already 
a population of nearly fifty thousand. It is called " the 
Garden City," probably on account of the numerous 
gardens in its vicinity, from which fine views may be 
had of the surrounding country. One of these, be 
longing to Dr. Egan, our friends took us to see in the 
afternoon, and its intelligent proprietor pointed out the 
different localities. The city limits extend so far out 
as to afford room for a vast increase of population ; a 
few years, however, may see them filled up. Great 
numbers of cattle may be seen feeding on the prairies, 
and we were informed that it is customary for those 
residents who keep cows, to give them every morning 
into the charge of a herdsman, who takes them out, 
tends them while they feed all day, and brings them 
home at night. Far as the eye can reach, a slightly 
elevated ridge may be seen, on which part the streams 
whose waters are to flow into the St. Lawrence, or find 
their rest in the Gulf of Mexico ; and so near are the 
sources of each, that at the breaking up of winter an 
accident may lead either way the contribution of a 
chance rivulet. 

The society of Chicago must be excellent, if one 
can be allowed to judge from the very agreeable speci 
mens we saw in our day s sojourn. Mrs. K., one of 
our new acquaintances, is the daughter-in-law of the 
earliest resident of the place, whose trading establish 
ment stood near the junction of the river with the lake, 
when the peninsula of Michigan was a wilderness, peo 
pled only with savages, and but one or two settlers, 



36 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

besides the men of the garrison, lived here. Many 
members of Mr. K. s family were associated with the 
early history of this region of country, and a sister-in 
law was preserved from massacre in the famous battle 
with the Indians, by a friendly chief, who dragged her 
out in the lake and held her in the water until she 
could be led off in safety. Mrs. K. herself described 
several excursions on horseback through the primeval 
forests of Illinois, before the pioneer settlers had yet 
penetrated its northern portions, and her camping out, 
or lodging with no roof save the canopy of heaven. 

A splendid panoramic view of the city and surround 
ing country can be had from an observatory on the top 
of the Tremont House. On this picture our eyes rested 
while the purple of sunset faded from the west, and the 
young moon rode through the clear ether, and the blue 
lake lay in shadow, while myriad lamps, lighting up 
as by magic, far and wide, showed us the peopled city 
still alive with activity, labor, and care, which the dark 
and solemn night cannot put to rest. 

The evening passed in a charming circle of visitors, 
and after an early breakfast on the 23d, we bade fare- 
well to our kind friends and drove to the cars of the 
"Galena and Chicago Union Bail road," which started 
at half past seven. Happy may the traveller conclude 
himself when the completion of the road may enable 
him to have the prospect, even with slow travel, of 
reaching Galena the same evening. A new route 
will then be opened to the tourist from the Eastern 
States, which will bring throngs of summer travellers. 
It will then be fashionable to visit the Falls of St. An- 



PRAIRIES. 37 

thony, and to rave about the beauty of the Upper Mis 
sissippi, from which those are now cut off who do 
not care to go down the Ohio and ascend the Great 
River, and whose love of scenery is not strong enough 
to induce them to brave eighty or ninety miles of stag 
ing over a perilous and fatiguing road. Never was a 
railroad more needed, nor one which promised a surer 
or more continual product for the capital invested in 
its construction ; so essential a link will it be in the 
great chain stretching from the Mississippi to the 
Hudson. 

The first prairies on which you enter are perfectly 
level a treeless, shrubless expanse, with groves like 
islands in the distance, and a line of woods on the 
verge ; the space between much cut up by cultivated 
fields and farm-houses with flourishing gardens. Fine 
oak openings are seen at intervals every where. The 
grass, even on the prairies which had not been grazed 
over or mown, was little more .than a foot high, and 
profusely sprinkled with pale yellow and flame-colored, 
or blue and pink flowers. Now and then the prairie 
squirrel or gopher leaps across the path. The short 
ness of the grass, owing in some measure to the late 
drought, much disappointed us in the first views of 
these " gardens of the desert," especially after ascend 
ing to a somewhat higher level, when we came into 
the region of the rolling prairies. Cultivation, too, has 
sadly marred the eifect of these ; one can scarcely con 
ceive how much the sight of a distant corn patch, or 
field of wheat, or even a fence, or inclosure round a 
dwelling, takes away from the aspect of romantic wild- 



88 SUMMER KAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

ness usually associated with the idea of a prairie of 
the West. Its vernal aspect, when the gold and crim 
son flowers contrast with the tender green, must be 
such as to inspire what Margaret Fuller called a " fairy 
land exultation," and there is moreover something in 
the feeling she describes, that she might continue a 
walk with any seven-leagued mode of conveyance, 
hundreds of miles without an obstacle. There is, too, 
a peculiar beauty in the sunset and moonlight, of the 
same kind with their loveliness at sea, and the cluster 
ing island groves are sheltering nooks for delicate ro 
mance ; nevertheless, the idea expanded by the poetic 
dream is not filled by the reality. Who does not asso 
ciate with the thought of a prairie the swaying of the 
wind, so that its fleet course may be traced by the 
bending of the reedy grass, or the tossing of the golden 
flowers, or the slow moving clouds, which 

" Sweep over with their shadows, and beneath 
The surface rolls and fluctuates to the eye : 
Dark hollows seem to glide along, and chase 
The sunny ridges " 1 

Yet on the upland prairies this is rarely or never seen. 
The motion of tall grass would give to these plains 
much of the sublimity and magnificence of ocean, 
which now they resemble only in the grandeur of their 
vast extent, and the undulating outline defined against 
the far-off sky like the billowy swelling of the sea. 
The burning of the grass, which is done every year, 
presents a splendid spectacle, though less stupendous 
than the perilous and poetical conflagrations described 



STAGE COACHES, 30 

by glowing pens. Several blackened patches showed 
where the dry grass had been recently burned. 

At Prairie State Mills, about forty miles from Chi 
cago, we came upon the Fox Kiver, a low but graceful 
stream flowing through a pretty valley on the left, in 
which herds of cattle were grazing. This river follows 
us to Elgin, a flourishing business place, and disap 
pears after many picturesque windings. Then comes 
the lieohwaukee and other smaller streams, and after 
passing a village or two, the train stopped at Cherry 
Valley, where the railway then terminated. Our 
progress had been slow, but we endeavored to console 
ourselves by observing the scenery. Miss C. counted 
eighty different species of plants in flower, which she 
duly noted in her journal, besides a number of sedges 
and grasses. 

At Cherry Valley private vehicles and coaches 
were in readiness to convey travellers to their destina 
tion; those bound to Galena were consigned to the 
latter, and were soon jolting over roads, respecting 
which they were assured every few miles that they 
were u just passing over the worst." It will be a joy 
ful era in civilization when those heavy, lumbering, 
leathery horrors are banished from the traveller s 
knowledge ! Since our pilgrimage over the mountains 
of Virginia and the dusty highways of Tennessee, I 
had not seen one, and the aspect of four drawn up in 
file, to be filled by the victims ejected from the cars, 
was appalling enough, without the addition of a surly, 
dirty -looking Jehu on the driver s seat of each, whose 
grim visage and profane* tongue checked on the instant 



40 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

the half-formod wish to occupy a seat on the outside. 
Into one of these purgatories we perforce climbed, and 
two of us, sighing, took our places on the back seat. 
It was soon crowded with rather a rough population ; 
but who can blame petulance, under circumstances 
disagreeable enough to neutralize all the genial effects 
of Western atmosphere and custom! One woman 
with a child, who entered last, found a place on the 
front seat, and complained of her lot ; whereat a tall, 
raw-boned amazon in a white sun-bonnet, who took 
up the largest third of the middle seat, with a grin 
meant to be gracious, desired me to change and go to 
the front. My declining to accommodate the new 
comer on the plea that I feared being made sick, drew 
down her indignation and that of the woman s hus 
band and a pert little girl of about thirteen, who 
echoed whatever the others said, enforcing their ax 
ioms occasionally by a poke of her needle-like elbow 
into the sides of whoever she chanced to be near the 
while changing her seat every three minutes. " I m 
thankful / am not disobleeging ! You can have my 
seat any time." (She took care never to suit the action 
to the word.) "Jam not fearful of sea-sickness." " It s 
cur ous how timid some folks is ! " &c., keeping up a 
perpetual stream of talk, and mingling the most search 
ing inquiries into the domestic affairs of her neighbors 
with a voluble autobiography and the private annals 
of sundry families of her acquaintance, in a manner 
that would have been ludicrous, had not the sharp and 
incessant din of her tongue been like daggers in our 
ears. She speered several questions at me, which were 



.ROCK EIVEE. 41 

answered with repulsive monosyllables, and then she 
launched into remarks she meant to be applied, con 
cerning the pride of "some folk, who thought them 
selves better than some other folk." It was a sensible 
mitigation of the nuisance, however, to learn that she 
was going no farther than Freeport. 

Kockford, seven miles from Cherry Valley, is beau 
tifully situated on Eock Kiver, a noble stream which 
flows through the most picturesque part of Illinois. 
Miss Fuller speaks of it as flowing "sometimes through 
parks and lawns, then between high bluffs whose grassy 
ridges are covered with fine trees, or broken with crum 
bling stone that easily assumes the form of buttress, 
arch, and clustered columns. Along the face of such 
crumbling rocks swallows nests are thick as cities, and 
eagles and deer do not disdain their summits." Bry 
ant observes that the shores of this river unite the 
beauties of the Hudson and the Connecticut. Its 
course is through upland prairie, yet its banks are 
often bold, and sometimes perpendicular precipices 
or steep bluffs, rock-turreted, or covered with woods 
on the low lands. The prairies extend back of the 
bluffs, from the face of which clear springs gush out, 
and send their tribute to the river. 

A stoppage was made here of an hour for dinner, 
fifty minutes of which were consumed in the prepara 
tion of the meal, leaving the passengers ten in which 
to eat it and secure their places in the crowded stages. 
Now came our fit again, and truly it seemed as if all 
things, including the roads and weather, had conspired 
to make this journey memorable in the record of the 



42 SUMMER EAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

petty miseries of human life. The extreme heat was 
rendered more oppressive by a slight dampness in the 
air, and the road exhibited the phenomena of danger 
ous mud-holes combined with a stifling atmosphere of 
dust. Into these plunged ever and anon the cumbrous, 
shackling vehicle, and came out with a violent jerk, 
to the utter discomfort of the tumbling and grumbling 
passengers, above whose muttered plaints rose a shrill 
trio from the woman, whose name the amazon pro 
claimed to be Mrs. Johnson her husband, and the 
hopeful girl, with loud exclamations from the strapping 
regulator of the movements and sessions of the coach- 
ful, who treated our hapless mother tongue with great 
cruelty. It was an omen of relief, at least from the 
overpowering heat, when the driver was seen to alight 
and encase himself in an India-rubber overcoat ; and 
in about an hour the long desired shower came upon 
us. We had groaned at the dust, but alas, found the 
rain harder to endure; for it stayed with us, and 
without cooling the air, added both to the discomforts 
and dangers of the way. At Freeport a miserable sup 
per was offered, with the like delay in preparing and 
hurry in dispatching ; and then a night s travel was 
commenced, the like of which one may hope never to 
encounter again. 

Our tormentor in the white sun-bonnet had disap 
peared but her influence lingered; she had given 
whispered instructions, overheard by those interested, 
to the woman with the infant to go without her tea for 
the purpose of securing the back seat, and her husband 
took his place beside her, manfully resolved to do 



PEAIBIE EOADS. 43 

battle for the moiety of comfort it promised. M. 
quietly yielded to his intrusion on her rights, and 
edged herself into a corner on the front seat ; the only 
place left was a segment of the back one, which must 
be filled, for there were nine inside, but which Mr. 
Johnson was sternly determined should not be occu 
pied. The interference of the driver had to be invok 
ed, and as the only alternative was for one of us to 
get out of the stage, the surly passenger was compelled 
to give up the point, and suffer the intrusion on the 
premises he claimed of one of the ladies he had dis 
lodged. I mention this incident as a rare exception 
to the prevailing custom throughout the United States ; 
at the West especially I have often seen men relin 
quish their seats to female passengers, but never be 
fore saw one turned out of her seat by a man. No 
selfish preparations, however, could procure an hour 
of balmy repose. The rain, which was still falling soft 
and warm, had reduced the prairie roads to their worst 
summer condition, and a long line of black mud, check 
ered by holes at one side or another, and now and then 
a tumble-down bridge, could be seen by the light of 
the lamps. But let no one imagine that the mere view 
can give the least idea of a prairie " slough," or mud- 
hole ! You may see one deceitfully covered with 
green turf, and suspect no danger till your horses feet, 
or one of your wheels, shall be sunk so far as to ren 
der recovery impossible without the aid of stakes and 
ropes brought to the rescue. The story of the pedes 
trian s cap moving just above the black ooze, while 
the rider and horse were below, appears no fable. 



44: SUMMER EAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

Then the mud it is of a peculiar quality, coal-black, 
and tenacious as tar. After our coach had plunged 
and slipped along an hour or two, lurching almost to 
an overturn first on one side, then on another, the 
voice of the driver calling for a light for he "could 
not see an inch, and never drove over this road before" 
did not tend to reassure those disposed to think of 
accidents, particularly as the information was added, 
that a night seldom passed without some stage being 
overset. The pockets of cigar-smokers were searched 
for matches, but vain was the attempt to light the 
lamp, till the last match had been used. Presently 
the driver in front roared out to "take care of the 
bridge " which his wheels had just demolished ; a cau 
tion withheld till ours were in the act of going over it, 
bringing the stage down with a swing from which it 
seemed impossible to recover it. Next our driver 
called in great alarm for help : one of the horses had 
slipped, and lay sprawling in the mud. A succession 
of such agreeable incidents during the whole night, 
kept before our minds the probability of having limbs 
broken, or of spending the rest of the hours of dark 
ness on the lone, waste prairie, miles from any human 
habitation, with the wet grass for a couch. These not 
very exhilarating circumstances were rendered intol 
erable by the most shocking profanity on the part of 
the drivers. Ours kept up a soliloquy of oaths, and 
when an accident or a stoppage brought him into the 
fellowship of his companions, the concert of blasphe 
mies was absolutely terrifying. Such conduct should 



LEAD KEGION. 45 

never have been permitted by the directors of the 
road. 

The summer of 1853 will probably put an end to 
similar experiences by finishing the railroad. We took 
the whole night to accomplish twenty-eight miles, and 
were glad to escape without any serious accident, 
though a score of times had we been forced to descend 
from the coach and wallow through the mud with our 
thin-soled gaiters coated thickly to the instep, the rain 
penetrating the destructible part of bonnets, and satu 
rating crape shawls. On arriving at the customary 
breakfast-house, none of the woe-begone passengers 
seemed disposed to stop ; and as there were no signs 
of preparation, none of the inmates being up, the dri 
ver consented to go on fourteen miles to the next 
halting place. The prairies passed over at this stage 
were the finest and wildest we had yet seen ; bound 
less in extent save by the bending horizon, and rolling 
in majestic undulations. Not a tree or shrub could be 
seen for miles. "Within fourteen miles of Galena that 
aspect of the country began to change ; instead of 
sweeping prairies a ridge of elevated land presented 
itself, the summit of which commanded an extensive 
view of a beautiful and varied landscape, patches of 
woods, sloping fields, meadows, orchards, etc., all giv 
ing evidence of a rich soil and high cultivation. The 
broken country became bolder, and abrupt conical 
hills began to rise in front, to be scaled by stony and 
irregular roads matched nowhere except within seven 
miles of the Mammoth Cave, in Kentucky. More ele 
vated ranges appeared in the distance. Here and there 



46 BUMMER KAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

we came upon "mineral openings," through which 
descent is made by a windlass to the lead mines for 
which this region has long been so famous. The 
workmen were busily occupied around the openings, 
and wagons loaded with the smelted lead and rough 
ore were continually passing. Eugged heights of lime 
stone rock, in castellated form, their crevices and sum 
mits covered with tangled vines, bushes and trees, rose 
before us, and after scaling and descending several 
steep hills, we entered Galena about noon. 



GALENA. 47 



IV. 



AT the first view, Galena appears a very rough -looking 
place, "jammed in" between rocky hills, on which a 
large portion of the town is built. The ranges of 
houses rising one above another, built on terraces, 
stand at irregular intervals, so that but a small part 
of the town can be seen at one view from any point 
in the vicinity. Miss C. observed that if the inhabit 
ants were not well acquainted with their neighbors 7 
affairs, it must be their own fault, "for everybody has 
somebody else overlooking him, and he himself cannot 
well help a similar inspection. A wag, describing the 
city, said it looked like a drove of sheep going down 
to water. " 

We stayed at the house of Capt. Gear, Miss C. s 
uncle, one of the oldest citizens, and among the earliest 
pioneers of Illinois. His residence, which was former 
ly a trading house, is not far from the river bank, and 
commands a fine view. The kindness of our reception 
was the more grateful from our need of quiet, and most 
welcome was the Sabbath rest of the following day, 
when we attended service in the Episcopal Church, 
situated on a steep hillside. It was a novel amuse- 



. 

48 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

ment in the evenings to sit by the window and see 
rushing almost under it, with the noise made by the 
Western high-pressure boats, steamers so large as ap 
parently to fill up the little river that skirts the city, 
and is now shrunken by the drought into half its ac 
customed limits. At night the appearance of these 
boats, lighted up and filled with lively passengers, is 
very picturesque. All that ascend or descend the 
Mississippi, stop at Galena. The " fast boats" make 
the trip to St. Paul and back in a little over three 
days, averaging two a week ; but we were counselled 
to wait and take a slow boat in preference, that the 
scenery might be seen^-to better advantage. Our kind 
host, meantime, and several of his friends, volunteered 
to show us things ^vorthy of note in this vicinity. 
Capt. Gear has been for many years interested in the 
larger boats plying from St. Louis, and in the lead 
mines which have enabled Galena for a long time to 
control the whole trade on the upper portion of the 
Mississippi. He removed hither about 1827, saw the 
growth of the place to a town of importance, and 
realized a large fortune in the diggings. A fine paint 
ing, by Stanley, which hangs in his parlor, represents 
at once the source of his wealth and influence, and a 
critical moment in his history. Three different times 
was he buried under the surface in digging, and as 
often rescued ; the last time from a depth of sixty feet 
in the earth, and forty feet of water, escaping to the 
surface by the ladder which always stands in the shaft. 
He is a man of remarkable stature, with a strong and 
muscular frame, and the artist has him at full length, 



EARLY KOHANCE. 49 

standing at the mouth of the pole, one arm resting on 
the curb of the windlass, and the other leaning on his 
shovel.* 

It will be remembered that the whole region water 
ed by the St. Lawrence, the great lakes, and the Upper 
Mississippi, was first visited by the Jesuits, and that 
their reports induced French traders to establish them 
selves at different points in the northwest. By their 
flexible manners they accommodated themselves to 
Indian habits, and many of the traders who married 
Indian women, continued faithful to them, while others 
deserted their partners as soon as they had amassed 
sufficient property to satisfy their cupidity, taking 
away their children, and teaching them to forget, in a 
more polished life, their early associations. The old 
residents here have many stories of matches made by 
white men with Indian women. Dr. Muir, who gave . 
its name to Galena, had acquired his profession at Ed-^jjjll 
inburgh, and was a young man of interesting manners 
and excellent character. At one time he was surgeon 
to the troops stationed at Fort Snelling. A handsome 
maiden of the Fox tribe dreamed one night that she ?.. 
saw him unmoor her canoe, paddle it over from the 
other side of the river, and come directly to her lodge. 
She knew, according to her superstitious belief, that he 
was to be her husband, and of course, such a prophecy 
soon works out its own fujfilment. 

" Muir was true to this attachment until the sneers 

* In this chapter I have made, by permission, extracts from the 
journal of my fellow-traveller Miss Clark. 
3 



50 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

of his brother officers made him ashamed of it, and as 
he was then ordered with the company to Bellefon- 
taine, a fort just above the junction of the Missouri 
and Mississippi, he took this opportunity to get rid of 
his dark-browed partner, not thinking she could ever 
find him, or if she should, that she would have it in 
her power to follow him. But love triumphs over 
every impediment. With her infant child the intrepid 
wife and mother started alone in her canoe, and perse 
vering through all difficulties, safely at last reached the 
object of her heart s idolatry ; but so much had she 
undergone in mind and body, that, to use her own 
expressive phraseology, laying her hand on her breast, 
1 When I got there, I was all perished away so 
thin! 1 

"After a journey of about nine hundred miles, ac 
complished for his sake, he could no longer withstand 
her devotion, and to save further annoyance from his 
friends, Muir threw up his commission and commenced 
practice in Galena. His wife always presided at her 
own table, and at entertainments given to his friends, 
but never relinquished her native dress. Their eld 
est son was educated at the Cherokee College in the 
south, but on his return, while at Keokuk, then an 
Indian village, he fell into the hands of sharpers, who 
endeavored to defraud him of his lands ; in a moment 
of indignation he tore up ono^of their false papers, 
and being threatened and pursued for this, fled up 
the river, where he was accidentally drowned. Dr. 
Muir died suddenly, and as he left no available means, 
his widow went down the river to search for Mrs. Far- 



GALENA IN EARLY TIMES. 51 

rar, who had received a request from Governor Clark, 
of Missouri, if possible to get possession of the two 
young children. Unfortunately they missed each other, 
and the widow, failing to find the person to whom she 
was willing to relinquish them, returned with her little 
boy and girl to her own tribe, too far to be recovered, 
where it was ultimately ascertained they died from ex 
posure and starvation. 

" Though an old trading post much earlier, Gale 
na first attracted Eastern settlers about 1819, when 
among others, Duff Green was here ^ith a company. 
In the winter of 1827 there were but fifteen white 
women in the place, all of whom were once present at 
a party. Mrs. Martha Miller, wife of John S. Miller, 
was the first white woman who came to Galena, and 
she died lately in California. The first crime remem 
bered after Galena became an American settlement, 
1 except a hot-headed murder or so in the diggings, "* was 
that of a negro who was convicted of stealing a keg 
of lard in 1828, when there were about two thousand 
inhabitants in the diggings. The offender was sen 
tenced to be whipped. They used to say that the pun 
ishment for such offences was putting the criminal in 
a canoe, with provisions for a short time, and setting 
him afloat down the river, where of course there was 
no settlement to land at. 

"In 1833 Galena was quite a populous village, and 
now numbers about seven thousand. It is the great 
metropolis of the lead trade, and on its wharves may 
be seen piles of the smelted metal to the amount of 
many tons, laid up in bars ready for exportation. 



52 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

" Lead mineral runs with the points of the compass 
north or south in vein or sheet, and is sometimes 
found within a few feet of the surface. It has been 
worked to the depth of one hundred and twenty feet, 
which has generally taken it to the water. East and 
west the mineral lies in crevices, but seldom in sheets, 
and is found in openings and caves. The present price 
is twenty-six or twenty-eight dollars per thousand." 

It is not a little remarkable to observe the preju 
dice in the minds of many travellers against Galena 
on account of the name of the useful little river which 
runs by it. Several passengers from Chicago put them 
selves to no little inconvenience to avoid stopping there, 
supposing the place haunted by fevers. " A rose by 
any other name would smell as sweet," but Galena 
seems doomed to suffer the penalty of an inappropriate 
cognomen , or rather a misapplication of a sound ; for the 
fact is, that the river was named after a French trader, 
and is Fevre, or Bean Eiver, supposed by some to de 
rive its name from the wild beans which abounded on 
its banks. The elevated and rocky site of the town 
would seem to indicate a particularly healthy location, 
and the report of residents confirms this conclusion. 
The rugged acclivities and abrupt ravines, when smooth 
ed a little by culture, adorned with trees, and covered 
with more sightly buildings, will add an aspect of wild- 
ness and novelty to its beauty. Some of the houses are 
now accessible by narrow foot-bridges ; there are the 
quaintest nooks for buildings imaginable, and the neat 
est cottages, nestled in verdure, are perched on hill 
sides, where they appear to much advantage. The 



IOWA SCENERY. 53 

great charm of the place is the generous spirit of social 
kindness which seems to prevail. Although we came 
almost strangers, we were made to feel at home at 
once by the most cordial of welcomes from numerous 
friends, and every thing possible was done to promote 
our enjoyment. Having seen something of the best 
society of the town, we departed with most agreeable 
recollections. 

A party was made up one day for an excursion into 
Iowa, for the purpose of making discoveries in a cave 
said to have been found within six miles of Dubuque. 
One in that vicinity had been explored, and rifled of 
most of its beautiful lime formations ; but this was en 
tirely unknown. The drive of two miles and a half 
to the ferry was through a picturesque country, over 
winding ascents which disclosed the most pleasing 
views of luxuriant valleys, wooded ravines, and ex 
tensive tracts of cultivated land. From a consider 
able height we had the first view of the glorious Missis 
sippi, lying far down between the hills. The river at 
the ferry appeared to be a mile in width, inclosing 
many lovely islands fringed by a thick growth of wil 
lows, or covered with oaks. The road winding onward 
from the Iowa side, crosses some strips of prairie land, 
and skirts hills whose conical peaks are crowned with 
rocky turrets. The woodland consists entirely of light 
timber, in scattered growth or openings of considerable 
extent, with grass of the brightest verdure underneath, 
giving the country the appearance of an old and cul 
tivated region, and every where the surface of the 
earth is covered with rich vegetation. Continually on 



54 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

ascending an elevation, magnificent panoramic views 
were discovered, extending frequently more than 
twenty miles ; the hills, rock-crowned as with ruined 
castles, rising range above range, the loftiest melting 
into the blue distance. The picture was enchanting as 
extensive ; there were fields golden with harvest and 
tracts of standing corn, meadows and pasture land of 
the smoothest verdure, and woods where streaks of 
sunshine checkered the shade. Few farm-houses were 
to be seen ; a circumstance rather surprising when the 
advanced improvement of the soil is considered. The 
distant view of Dubuque, lying along the river shore 
at the base of its hills, was very imposing. 

At length we left the road, turning to the left, and 
after a number of inquiries and misgivings, in about a 
quarter of an hour came to the house of a farmer, the 
proprietor of the cave. It was a double log hut, con 
nected by a shed, as many are built hereabouts, one divi 
sion having fallen much to decay, and the whole dwell 
ing bespeaking little of comfort, although the interior 
was scrupulously clean. A somewhat saturnine old 
man nodded to us at the fence, and gave us permission 
to alight ; while his gentle and sad looking wife set 
us chairs out of doors, and fetched cool water for our 
refreshment. Some cold water was thrown, too, upon 
our enthusiasm about the cave; though the owner 
speedily got over his first impression, that we were 
nefarious hunters for " mineral ;" a class he seemed to 
hold in as great fear as if his possession could have been 
wrested from him. He assured us there was no en 
trance for us; the place was not " fixed;" several 



ENTRANCE TO THE CAVE. 55 

men had given up the attempt to enter, and latterly 
he had refused to permit any visitors to approach it, 
under the apprehension that they might discover 
another entrance on the property of some of his 
neighbors, who would thus come in for a share of any 
native lead it might contain. We were resolved how 
ever to "proceed to a trial," and as a preliminary ad 
journed to the spring which gushed a cool blessing 
from under an ancient oak in a beautiful grove near 
at hand. Here a pic-nic^ repast was spread out, con 
sisting of crackers, cake and cheese, and apples rosy 
with the glow of a southern sun ; accompanied with 
draughts of cool water bubbling from the earth, more 
delicious than the choicest product of the vine. 

The farmer awaited our return at his house, where 
his wife had laid out some calico wrappers more suit 
able than our light habiliments for a subterranean ex 
cursion. When these preparations were completed, 
the old man led the way across the fields to the open 
ing of the cave. It had been discovered while digging 
for lead mineral, several shafts having been sunk in 
the vicinity. A wide hollow had been made by throw 
ing up the earth, in the centre of which a hole ap 
peared as large as a well. The farmer fetched a stout 
stick, and threw it across the opening, to which he tied 
a rope ; those who ventured in were to descend some 
twenty feet perpendicularly, entering then a horizon 
tal passage, so narrow and low as scarcely to permit 
one to crawl, working along with difficulty, regardless 
of mud beneath and dripping water above. It was too 
much of an adventure for women, and with regret we 



56 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

resigned the honor of pioneership to one abler and 
more courageous. 

Dr. accordingly equipped himself, and taking a 

candle and box of matches, disappeared in the dark 
ness, calling out repeatedly to us as he proceeded, till 
his voice sounded hollow and stifled, and was finally 
lost. The rest of the party sat dolefully perched on 
mossy seats, listening to the descriptions of the pro 
prietor, who seemed to take a pleasure in stimulating 
our curiosity, now that there was no opportunity of 
gratifying it. He expatiated particularly on the beauty 
of a large white stalactite, resembling an equestrian 
statue, which stood at the entrance of one of the 
chambers, and gave it as his opinion, that the cave 
extended many miles underground in the direction of 
the Mississippi, and could be easily explored, when 
once the difficulties of entrance were overcome. 

The heat became intolerable, and leaving the farmer 
to wait for the reappearance of our friend, we returned 
to the shelter of the cabin. The good dame had put 
every thing in the neatest order, spreading her newest 
patchwork quilts on the two beds that stood in the 
room which served for kitchen, parlor, and chamber, 
and was seated at her knitting work. We learned that 
she had been married but a short time, though ad 
vanced in years, and that a disagreement between the 
old man and her children by a former marriage, had 
deprived her of their companionship. It was easy to 
perceive that he was of a crooked and surly disposi 
tion, and that she suffered the grinding martyrdom of 
an ill-used wife. As the tale was drawn from her, little 



THE EXPLORATION. 57 

by little, by the sympathy expressed, a few tears stole 
down her pale cheek, which she quietly wiped away, 
and apologized for having been led to speak of her 
sorrows. How true it is. that every dwelling, however 
humble or isolated, has its story of dole, its material 
for romance ! yet how blessed is the knowledge, that 
as from the dreariest abode the blue and sunbright 
arch of heaven may be seen, so spans all human woes 
the hope of eternal life through a Saviour s expiation 
and righteousness, and sheds its cheering light into the 
narrowest and darkest cell in which is imprisoned the 
soul affiliated to Infinite love 1 

Some hours passed, and each of the party began to 
feel uneasy ; the old man told us the cave had not been 
entered in a year, and no one knew the present con 
dition of its atmosphere. At last it was agreed that 
we should get the farmer to go in search of the missing, 
when the cry " he is coming" put an end to apprehen 
sion. We should hardly have recognized our ad 
venturous underground traveller, so bedaubed was he 
with mud from head to foot ; his dress was sadly torn, 
and his hands were scratched in breaking from the 
sides of the cave the various and beautiful snowwhite 
stalactites, a number of which he brought tied up in 
a handkerchief. He had riot penetrated to the most 
remarkable recesses of the cave, nor seen its largest 
chambers, on account of the extreme difficulty of the 
passage, but had seen enough to show that it would 
richly reward the trouble of exploration. 

Our drive homeward was of necessity a rapid one, 
for evening was approaching. While passing through 
3* 



58 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

an oak grove we observed Mr. C , who rode in front, 

suddenly check his horse ; and presently saw an enor 
mous rattlesnake marching slowly across the road. 

M sprang from the carriage instantly, claiming 

the prize for her cabinet ; and though it raised the 

warning rattle, and prepared for a fatal coil, Dr. 

soon dispatched and hung it to the back of the carriage. 
The sunset glow was lingering on the dark, clear 
waters of the Mississippi, when we returned to the 
ferry and embarked in the horse-boat, The golden 
and purple clouds were reflected on its bosom ; the 
shadows of the headlands and islands lay still in its 
depths, and the moon nearly at the fall, was sailing in 
high heaven, as we stood gazing at the dark mass of 
" Tete des Morts," a promontory overhanging the 
waters a little distance up. The spot is noted in tra 
dition as the scene of mortal strife between two hostile 
parties of Indians, one of which drove the other to the 
verge of the precipice and over it. From the other 
side we had a drive to Galena by moonlight, and found 
several friends who had been invited to meet us, ex 
pecting our arrival. The little incidents of the day 
afforded them much more amusement, probably, than 
the reader has found in them. 



THE BEN CAMPBELL. 59 



V. 



THE new steamer Ben Campbell was appointed to leave 
Galena at eight o clock, "Wednesday morning, 28th 
July, Captain Orrin Smith, who usually commands 
the Nominee, and is one of the proprietors of this line 
of boats, was in command, and we congratulated our 
selves on the circumstance, having heard much of him 
as an excellent man and a sincere Christian. It is said 
that he always respects the Sabbath, not suffering his 
boat to be in progress on that sacred day. Many 
parties who have gone up the river have mentioned 
him as a most desirable companion on such an excur 
sion, and his graceful courtesy and cordial manners 
cannot fail to win the regard of all who have the good 
fortune to travel under his care. The boat rivalled in 
size and elegance of arrangement the Lake and Ohio 
steamers ; the state-rooms were large, and generally 
furnished with double beds and wardrobes, and the 
fare was so excellent, that one was naturally at a loss 
to conceive how passengers could possibly be conveyed 
four hundred miles, lodged and fed sumptuously, and 
provided with attendance for four dollars each, less 
than one would have to pay at an ordinary hotel ; 



60 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

at a time, too, when the furore, of competition was over, 
the decline in the waters having stopped the running 
of many first-class boats. 

Punctuality to the time fixed is seldom observed 
by "Western boats, and it was after ten when we went* 
on board, accompanied by a number of friends who 
came to say farewell and promise a meeting in Minne 
sota. The other passengers came in slowly, and it was 
curious to contrast the quiet of departure with the 
noise and confusion of such an occasion in New York. 
We took our seats on a shaded part of the guards, but 
were presently rather sternly reminded by a gentle 
man acquaintance, that we were "out of bounds; " 
and he pointed at the same time to the line of carpet 
ing dividing the ladies from the dining cabin, his ex 
pression intimating that it was inexorable. I looked 
wistfully at the small aft windows which afforded the 
only lookout, and the number of ladies reclining on 
the velvet sofas and easy chairs, and stoutly refused to 
give up my chance of viewing the scenery for any 
masculine prejudices, unless the rules of the boat de 
manded the deprivation. Presently our excellent 
captain came by, and an appeal to him was answered by 
an assurance that the forward part of the boat afforded 
the best view, and he would have pleasant seats placed 
there for our accommodation. So, as in most political 
revolutions, the attempt at oppression was followed by 
the struggle which secured complete liberty. In due 
time, while our friends stood on the land, the boat 
dropped silently down the stream, whose gentle wind 
ings it followed for seven miles. Three miles from 



MODES OF NAVIGATION. 61 

Galena, a strip of bottom land divides it from the 
parent river, across which a channel might easily be 
cut. The channel of the Mississippi at the junction is 
very tortuous, and the islands numerous, reminding 
one of St. Mary s Eiver. The scenery is of the softest 
and most pleasing description ; there are grassy 
meadows and slopes, islands shady with oak groves 
and gently swelling hills, around which the steamer 
wound merrily ; the shore becoming bolder after we 
left Dubuque, and wooded headlands of considerable 
height overlooking the water, with here and there a 
grassy plateau sprinkled with tall trees. 

Dubuque, so named after an old French trader 
buried near, who had an ancient claim to the land, is 
a flourishing town of some five thousand inhabitants, 
lying at the foot of the hills opposite the line dividing 
Illinois from Wisconsin. It is wonderful to remember 
that thirty years ago there was scarce a settlement on 
this river above St. Louis, except trading-houses at 
long intervals. In 1824 it took forty clays to ascend 
the Mississippi from St. Louis to Galena in a bateau. 
The author of "Sketches of Minnesota 7 describes the 
usual method of navigating the river at that time, 
" unless a chance breeze happened to fill the sails of 
their slender craft ; bushwhacking, cor deling, or warping. 
In cordeling the men walked along the shore, and 
drew the boat by a rope attached to it. That method 
was impracticable in high water. Bushwhacking was 
accomplished by seizing hold of the bushes along the 
shore, and propelling the boat by that means. This 
method could occasionally be resorted to, but warping 



62 SUMMER EAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

was often the only means by which a boat could be 
propelled against the current. In warping they had 
two sets of boats and lines. A man went ahead in a 
boat, attached one end of a line to a tree or some fixed 
object on the shore, and hastened back to the bateau. 
The men threw the line over their shoulders and walked 
to the stern of the boat. Each one as he arrived at 
the stern, dropped the line, ran back to the bow, and 
seized it again. In the mean time the other boat was 
engaged in attaching another line, and thus all hands 
were constantly engaged in dragging their slow length 
along." 

Six miles above Dubuque, below a rocky bluff, is 
the landing of Sinapee, which it was once thought 
would rival Galena as the lead depot. Buena Yista 
landing and its vicinity afford beautiful views; the 
high, conical hills are turreted with rock, as if their 
summits were castle-crowned ; and the fairy islands 
dotting the waters, and the range of bluffs thickly 
wooded from their tops to the water s edge, save 
the rocky projections, with the vast variety of shade 
in their foliage, form an exquisite picture. It is diffi 
cult to separate into its component parts the beauty 
which here fills the imagination, so as to convey an 
adequate impression to those who have never seen it ; 
for this reason one can have little satisfaction in any 
description of the wonders of the Upper Mississippi. 
I have not seen on this noble river any one piece of 
scenery which surpasses the finest on the Hudson. The 
charm consists in the fact that a succession of pictures 
is presented ; and as soon as one magnificent view disap- 



SCENERY. 63 

pears another opens on the sight. This is continued for 
hundreds of miles forming a range of scenery scarcely 
paralleled upon the continent. Now we sail in the 
shadow of frowning crags one hundred and fifty or 
two hundred feet in height, densely covered with 
woods, a rude lodge or hut peering out from the foliage 
at long intervals ; now we skirt some luxuriant prairie, 
or watch the lazy progress of large rafts loaded with 
timber, floating under the rocky ledge bordering the 
water; and the disposition of the willow-fringed islands 
and the sweep of the country beyond is highly pictur 
esque. Prairie du Chien is a few miles above the mouth 
of "Wisconsin Eiver, and seventy-five miles by land 
from Galena. Fort Crawford, built here in 1819 by 
Gen. Taylor, is now abandoned, and its dismantled 
building gleamed white in the silvery moonlight. The 
ancient trading-house, half destroyed, is not a very 
sightly ruin. The town extends over a beautiful prai 
rie, and is one of the oldest Western settlements. It is 
associated with romantic incidents of Indian trade and 
warfare. Here commences the loveliest scenery of 
the Mississippi. 

The water was lower at this time than it had been 
for many years, but the boats are so constructed that 
their bow can touch the shore where a canoe could but 
just keep afloat. Bad Axe Eiver has given a name to 
the battle-ground some miles below its mouth, on 
which was fought the battle between the United States 
troops and the Sauks and Foxes, under Black Hawk. 
At Prairie de La Crosse is a superb view of the heights 
further up, partially wooded and checkered by the 



64 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

play of sunshine and shadow. A sudden and welcome 
shower here came upon us, the large drops dancing on 
the water, and cooling the air, which had been of burn 
ing heat. Some crevices resembling caverns may be 
seen as we approach, half way up the cliff, and the 
rocks rising tower -like from their summit, and the 
green islands clustering at their feet, combine grandeur 
with beauty. The rocky face of this lofty range is 
more thinly covered with woods, and here and there 
a bright stream flings itself down. The character of 
the woods in this part of Minnesota is much the same 
with those of Iowa ; they consist of a scattered growth 
of oaks, so low as to resemble orchard trees, with little 
or no underwood, and a rich carpeting of wild grass ; 
unlike the primeval forests of the Eastern States, and 
looking rather like a country that has been inhabited 
and deserted, and is partially grown wild again, than 
a region newly redeemed from Indian possession, and 
actually inhabited almost exclusively by the wild 
savage. There appears an inconsistency between its 
smooth and cultivated aspect and the rude character 
of the pioneer huts seen occasionally, or the primitive 
Indian lodges scattered at intervals. A sweeping 
range of bluffs here begins on the Wisconsin side, their 
rugged summits crowned with discolored masses of 
rock. 

This prairie was noted as a place of resort for the 
Indians, who came to play their favorite games. Their 
place has been taken by enterprising German and 
French settlers. A man was here arrested and brought 
on board, who had escaped from St. Paul some days 



MISSISSIPPI BLUFFS. 65 

before, having murdered his wife. The officers had 
tracked him thither, and were now taking him back 
to prison. He was permitted to sit on the forward 
deck, under guard, and had soon a crowd about him, 
listening to his account of the transaction. The fellow 
had a look of sullen desperation, under which some 
degree of fear was concealed, and seemed desirous of 
gaining sympathy. It was said this was the first 
murder of a white person committed in Minnesota Ter 
ritory. 

At several points the heights form an extensive am 
phitheatre, the river bending to wind through the 
valley, which expands to a considerable width. Op 
posite the mouth of Black Kiver, aUthe base of a moun 
tain, is the site of the new town of Dahcotah, on the 
Minnesota side. Above it rises a towering peak in 
the form of a sharp cone. A few scattered houses 
may be seen, most of them destitute of shade, though 
a beautiful grove is just at hand. There may be no 
ticed the common red cedar, the first evergreen appa 
rent, mingled with the bright green of the summer fo 
liage. The steep bluffs are grassy to their summits, and 
partially covered with burr-oak orchards, a broad level 
plain of the productive soil extending five or six miles 
back. Frowning ledges of rock, tufted with foliage, 
give the heights an aspect of savage grandeur. The 
islands are low and wooded thickly with cotton-wood, 
willow trees, and shrubbery, covered with vines. 

Hereabouts is the point where Lester, the sheriff 
of Crawford County, in Wisconsin, on his return from 
Lake Pepin to Prairie du Chien, was shot by an In- 



66 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

dian, who hailed and asked him for food. His body 
floated ten miles below, and was found by the dep 
uty, from whom I received the account, among the 
willows. Some Indian chiefs being captured as host 
ages, the murderer was delivered up by the savages, 
but was acquitted for want of evidence, the half-breed 
who had seen the murder being unable to identify him 
with sufficient accuracy. This sad example of the 
troubles often occurring on the frontier, took place in 
1844, just below " Catlin s Kock," so called from the 
artist who carved his name on the ledge. The shore 
is here very romantic, girdled . with a ledge of rock in 
which the water has worn shallow caverns alternated 
with ragged points covered with groves of burr-oak. 
The picture extends just above Mount Trombolo into 
one of the finest views on the river. This may be a 
corruption of " rnont quitrempe d Veau" and is a high 
rocky island, rising steeply from the water, and con 
spicuously detached from the eminences surrounding 
it. The magnificent range of conical heights on either 
side, towering to an elevation of from three to five 
hundred feet, stretches as far northward as the eye can. 
reach, forming a majestic amphitheatre of peaks ; and 
the prairie on the Wisconsin side extends to the Trom 
bolo River. Two or three shadowy islands dropped 
in the centre of the foreground add to the beauty of 
the scene, than which none more full of sublimity and 
loveliness ever employed an artist s pencil. 

Bonnel s Landing is the site of another new town 
and the commencement of Wabasha Prairie. There is 
a road by land hence to Traverse des Sioux, about one 



LEGEND WINNEBAGOES. 67 

hundred miles distant, through a luxuriant country. 
The grassy slope is sprinkled with the shadows of oaks, 
and cattle were grazing on the rich wild grass. 

I noticed a recognition here, on board the boat, 
which much pleased me. A well dressed man accost 
ed a gentleman by the name of Oakes, a resident of 
St. Paul, mentioned his own name, and begged to ex 
press his gratitude for kindness rendered years before 
in circumstances of distress. " You would not prob 
ably know me for the same," he continued, " for I was 
in rags when you assisted me ; " and I thought the 
incident and his grateful tones embodied one of the 
touching romances of real life. 

A curious sugarloaf hill, looking as if split down 
through the middle, here attracts attention among the 
bluish peaks in the distance. It has its exact counter 
part on the shore of Lake Pepin ; and the legend is, 
that the entire mountain once belonged to two Indian 
deities, who quarrelling, at length they parted com 
pany, agreed to divide the mountain, and one brought 
his half to Wabasha. Further up, the bluffs recede, 
and the beautiful prairie is bounded by them in a semi 
circular range, from half a mile to three miles in width, 
and skirted by a sluggish stream called a " slough " in 
western parlance. There is an Indian settlement not far 
off, and a farm-house where an old Indian was estab 
lished by Grovernment after the treaty of 1837, for the 
cultivation of land on the east side of the river. 

It is said that when the Winnebagoes on their way to 
their new homes, reached Wabasha Prairie, they refus 
ed to proceed further, and throwing off their blankets, 



68 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

assumed a warlike attitude, yelling, and brandishing 
their tomahawks with warlike gestures, as if the beau 
tiful scene had called up recollections that stung them 
to temporary madness. The prairie was named after 
the chief of a band of Sioux, whose tepees were not long 
since scattered at its extremity. It was now sprinkled 
with a number of rude " shanties" thrown up for the 
temporary accommodation of a colony of pioneers 
from New-York, who had come several weeks before, 
and laid out a village in the neighborhood. One 
lady, whose husband was among them, merely on a 
visit, however, came on the boat from Galena, and 
landed here, intending to join him. She looked as 
cheerful as if she thought a pioneer expedition a pleas 
ant frolic, and took her way across the prairie, accom 
panied only by a few rustic children, while a few bar 
rels of flour, and boxes of live fowl, were put ashore 
for the use of the emigrants. There is a white settle 
ment some six miles back. The rough cabins of new 
comers along the shore, built of logs, with mud and 
stick chimneys on the outside, are often placed high 
up the hills, and present a curious sight in these park- 
like oak woods, which would be in keeping with a cot 
tage ornee, or elegant country-seat. 

There is a beautiful view below Whitewater, of a 
range of promontories and islets dotting the broad 
river in most picturesque disposition. At Wabasha 
village those who wished to see savage life were amus 
ed by the pranks of the half naked Indian children, who 
ran into the waves raised by the steamboat wheels, 
flinging the water about with exulting shouts, while a 



LAKE PEPIN. 69 

hard-featured savage, with a yell as of defiance, shot 
his canoe directly across the channel before the boat. 

This village is on a tract belonging still to a com 
pany of Sioux half-breeds, the treaty for its sale not hav 
ing been ratified by Government. A few Canadians live 
there, and some educated half-breeds, whose houses 
are neatly painted and surrounded with pretty gardens. 
These are interspersed with the Sioux lodges, or tepees 
as they are called, built by covering poles with skins: 
and the narrow canoes made by hollowing out logs, by 
savages of that tribe, who have not the birch bark 
used by the Chippewa race, line the shore. At a dis 
tance a white flag waving over an inclosure denotes the 
burial-ground, and an old frame house, surmounted by 
a cross, is the Catholic church. This is near the mouth 
of the Chippewa Kiver, and four miles below the 
commencement of Lake Pepin, that beautiful expan 
sion of the river of which so much has been said in 
description and legend. 

The islands here disappear, and the increased swell 
of the waters shows greater volume and depth. Near 
the entrance, which is guarded by a rocky promontory, 
is a plateau on the Wisconsin side, where many years 
since a war party of Chippewas, coming to look for 
Sioux, killed several white traders. There is another 
legend connected with this locality, to which is said to 
be owing the song of the Indian sacred medicine dance. 
A Sauk and a Sioux Indian were together in a canoe, 
when they heard a strain of wild music, and at the 
same time felt the canoe upborne from the water by 
the local deity. The Sauk, affrighted, gave a scream, 



70 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

when it sank suddenly, and he was drowned; the 
other, beginning to repeat the song, felt the boat rise 
again, and the music continued, which he remembered, 
and taught his people. This tradition is firmly believed 
among the savages. There is hardly a locality on the 
shores of the Upper Mississippi, which is not associated 
with some Indian legend or historical incident. 

The sun gave us his farewell in a purple and golden 
panoply behind the bluffs, and the full moon rose as 
we glided over these storied waters, bounded on all 
sides by their magnificent and lofty rampart. Such a 
scene, blended with associations so romantic, might 
well make an artist of the least susceptible ; yet there 
were some on board who withstood all the enchant 
ments of this unrivalled scenery. Some of the women 
hardly quitted the ladies saloon during the voj^age, 
passing their time in reading novels and arraying their 
persons, changing their dress several times a day. It 
appears to be the custom among female passengers in 
this region, to adopt a style of dress suited rather to 
a ball-room, than the accidents of a journey. Thin 
tissues and muslins like " woven air" were evidently 
in favor, and many wore these delicate fabrics cut 
with low-necked waist and short sleeves, trusting to 
lace shawls or embroidered Swiss mantillas for protec 
tion against the breezes which in the evening and 
morning now became cool and bracing. A homely 
contrast was offered by our weather-defying ginghams 
and delaines, and sooth to say, we did not envy the 
cabined seclusion to which others were condemned by 
the necessity of keeping fresh their elegant costumes. 



MAIDEN S ROCK. 71 

One party of three or four, the family of a Boniface 
in the lead region, was the admiration of the rest, so 
various and beautiful were the morning, noon, dinner, 
and evening dresses they successively displayed. The 
largest rocking chairs were relinquished to them by 
common consent, and a nice lunch served, chiefly for 
their convenience, every morning at eleven in the sa 
loon ; a repast which seemed to our unsophisticated 
habits rather superfluous, as a sumptuous dinner was 
set forth at one o clock. 

"Maiden s Kock" towers some two hundred feet 
above the water, a gray, stark, frowning precipice, 
looking grand and savage in relief against the moonlit 
sky. Nearly opposite is the residence of a celebrated 
trader, who lives in baronial style, and was then inclos 
ing a park, with pickets, for his deer. He married a 
half-breed of the country, and may be considered to 
represent both the savage and civilized condition. 
The tradition connected with the Maiden s Eock is so 
variously told that you seldom hear the same version. 
A lady who had lived many years at Fort Snelling, 
and received the story from the lips of an aged Dakota, 
who said he had been an eye-witness of the scene, in 
formed me that a young Sioux girl had been accustom 
ed to meet her lover, who was hated by her kindred, 
near this spot ; displaying a token of security, when 
the lover s canoe might be seen shooting rapidly across 
the lake, while the dark-haired maiden stood on the 
bank. These stolen interviews at length became 
known to her relatives, who had already betrothed 
her to another. The maiden promised her brave to fly 



72 SUMMEK RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

with him, and watched for an opportunity. One eve 
ning a hunting party of her people was encamped 
not far from the lake. She was with them, filled with 
anxiety and terror, for she knew her beloved would 
come that very night to seek an interview with her. 
She saw his canoe gliding across the waters ; the others, 
too, caught the sight, and in desperation the young 
girl clambered to the summit of the bluff, with frantic 
gestures striving to warn her lover of his danger. The 
young chief, perhaps, mistook her meaning ; he came 
swiftly to the eastern shore, and as he met his fate at 
the hands of his foes, a fearful shriek from the cliff 
mingled with the yell of savage vengeance, and the 
hapless maiden, springing from the sheer verge, fell a 
corpse at the base of the bluff. 

Behind the lofty bluffs inclosing Lake Pepin 
stretches an extensive plain, as is usual in the West, 
level with the summit of the heights. This expanse of 
prairie is interspersed with oak groves, and beautiful 
in its grassy undulations. The tributaries to the Mis 
sissippi flow through a deep channel cut in this plain, 
guarded also by peering and precipitous bluffs. 

The Dakota village of Ked "Wing is on the Minne 
sota shore, not far from the lake, and near the mouth 
of Cannon Kiver. The St. Croix Eiver enters the 
Mississippi at Point Douglas, a fine site for a town, 
commanding a view of the river and the lake of St. 
Croix. The surrounding country is rapidly filling 
with an industrious farming population. Eed Rock, 
six miles below St. Paul, is so called from a boulder 
painted red lying near the shore, said to be worshipped 
by the savages. 



SIOUX CUSTOM. 73 

Early in the morning we passed Kaposia, or " Little 
Crow," a Sioux village of considerable size. The 
houses, built of strips of oak bark, laid across stakes 
pitched like tents, were arranged in somewhat 
regular order on the rising ground, which over 
looked the water. A number of conical tepees covered 
with skins, were scattered between ; the latter being 
the favorite Indian residence for winter ; and though 
smaller than the Chippewa wigwams, whole families 
will live in one of them. The peculiar narrow and 
crank " dug out " canoes used by this people, lined the 
beach in great numbers, tipped with red at the ends : 
some of them half filled with squaws and children, who 
must have an art of balancing themselves unknown to 
civilized beings, or they could not fail to be overset. 
A green and shadowy gorge opened back between 
the hills ; and on the heights in the distance were rude 
scaffoldings, surmounted by a white cloth or blanket, 
the covering of the Sioux dead ; for it is their custom, 
instead of burying the bodies of their deceased friends, 
to expose them in this manner in the open air for 
weeks. Their superstition appears to dread the pres 
sure of earth, and they fancy that their dead can see 
what is passing around them. The bodies are gene 
rally buried after a few months, though sometimes left 
longer on the scaffold. Usually white flags wave near 
the spot, denoting that it is sacred ground. 

Three or four Indians came on board here, dressed 

with some attempt at display, but hideously dirty. 

Their pipes and tomahawks were in one piece, the handle 

of the weapon serving for a pip e-stem. They preferred 

4 



74 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

a lounge amidst the freight in the "lighter " alongside 
to a seat among the curious passengers ; but one made 
amends for their want of sociability by giving us an air 
on his rudely constructed flute, assuming a sentimental 
attitude, for this is their fashion of lovemaking. 

The plateau near the great bend of the Mississippi 
a little below St. Paul, is the scene of a bloody massa 
cre of several Sioux by a party of Chippewas who sur 
prised them while intoxicated. One of them shot a 
trader s half-breed wife, and the slicing off the head of 
her child so quickly that the body stood erect for a 
moment, was the signal for a general onset. A pretty 
ravine here conducts the mighty river onward, close 
to which we were doomed to rest longer than we had 
anticipated ; for the steamer being of larger size than 
the boats ascending the river, and the water extraor 
dinarily low, a sand-bar at the point presented a barrier 
that could not be overcome till the cattle had been 
put ashore, and much of the freight removed into a 
barge alongside. This was within view of the town, 
the white houses of which showed imposingly on the 
bluff. It is usually called "Pigs Eye" bar, a name 
given to a small settlement of French and Canadians, 
it is said on account of a remarkable expression in the 
face of its first inhabitant, who had but one eye. For 
the remainder of the summer this place assumed to it 
self the honor contended for by St. Paul and St An 
thony, of being the acknowledged head of navigation. 
The boat lay here some hours, and it was nearly twelve 
before the impediment .was got over. We were to 
land a little after noon, but Captain Smith had given 



ARRIVAL RICE HOUSE. 75 

orders to have dinner prepared an hour before the 
time ; a custom usual with him, it was observed ; for 
he " never liked to send away his passengers hungry." 
In view of the extreme cheapness of travelling on this 
route, and the superior quality of the fare, this inci 
dent strikingly illustrates Western liberality. 

In due time we came triumphantly into port, land 
ing at the base of a bluff, the top and sides of which 
were crowded with idlers several Indians among them. 
There were carriages as luxurious as New- York affords, 
stages for St. Anthony, and omnibuses for the different 
hotels, in waiting. Our stately dames had arrayed 
themselves in rich silks, with embroidered shawls and 
bonnets of delicate gauze, to enter the- capital of Min 
nesota. We proceeded to the Eice House, where Miss 
C. was dismayed by the information that both families 
of the friends whose hospitality she expected to enjoy 
had the varioloid ; but we found excellent quarters 
in the hotel. Its proprietor is Mr. Daniels, a gentleman 
of intelligence and polished manners. He had just 
finished a splendid house when it was destroyed 
by fire. Much of the furniture, which is new and 
elegant, was saved and transferred to the present build 
ing. 

Our after experience afforded us much amusement 
in seeing the excitement produced throughout the town 
by a new arrival. Truly it was picturesque and illus 
trative ! An unusual bustle pervades the streets ; men 
are hurrying to and fro ; voices are heard in some confu 
sion ; there is the rumbling of carriage wheels, and 
the call of drivers. A light line of smoke is seen curl- 



76 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

ing over the mass of foliage on a distant bluff; a 
steamboat is coming! What hopes and fears, what 
thrilling emotions are called up by the event in the 
breasts of many ! The noise increases ; people hasten 
towards the landing to greet friends or hear the news ; 
the neatly covered carriage of the Eice House drives 
rapidly down, to secure a place on the landing and 
bring up travellers to comfortable quarters. But alas ! 
the smoke has become suddenly stationary; the boat 
has struck the formidable bar ! One by one the strag 
glers depart; but the carriages wait and after the 
delay of an hour or two, the boat generally arrives at 
the landing. 



ST. PAUL. 77 



VI. 



THE situation of St. Paul is unsurpassed for beauty of 
view. It stands on a bluff eighty or ninety feet high, 
overlooking the winding Mississippi, now diminished 
to an ordinary stream by the lowness of its waters ; 
the plain is just undulating and broken enough to save 
it from the uniformity of a perfect level, and present 
an agreeable variety in the appearance of the town. 
The streets are laid out regularly, and are of ample 
width, not built up as yet with substantial houses, but 
rapidly improving. Indeed it is surprising how much 
has been accomplished within three years, at the begin 
ning of which there were about a dozen log houses, and 
a small log Catholic chapel, from which the town 
afterwards took its name. Now the number of in 
habitants is twenty-five hundred or more, and there is 
an air of brisk progress and life about the place, which 
with its advantages of location, and the increasing 
resources of the country, will, in a short time, make it 
a city of importance. In portions of the town not yet 
improved by buildings, it is curious to see the primitive 
undergrowth of the woods, and even trees, left. In 
walking from the Rice House to the residence of the 



78 SUMMEE RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

Governor, in what may be called the heart of the town, 
we passed through quite a little forest ; crossed a 
mountain-stream flinging itself impetuously down the 
hillside, and saw a bear s cub at play an incident in 
keeping with the scene. Some very handsome build 
ings are in progress ; the new State-House, the Catholic 
church, and other public edifices. Five churches are 
completed and one more is in progress. It is two 
years since the Episcopal mission was established, and 

the fact was stated to Miss C that three clergymen 

with their students, visit once in three weeks every 
neighborhood from Point Douglas to Fort Ripley, and 
thence to the Falls of St. Croix, maintaining service 
every Sunday at St. Paul and St. Anthony. The 
mission house in St. Paul is a neat Gothic cottage em 
bowered in trees, and the church a handsome building 
in the Gothic style of architecture. Mr. Breck, much 
to the regret of the parish, had just accepted an invita 
tion from the Chippewas to remove the central point 
of his labors to Gull Lake. Kev. Edward D. Neill, the 
pastor of the Presbyterian congregation, is a highly 
intelligent gentleman, and learned in the reminiscences 
and traditions of the Territory, being secretary of the 
Historical Society of Minnesota. His library includes 
almost every thing relating to its history within two 
centuries, from the time when Father Hennepin first 
broke the silence of these northern wilds with a white 
man s voice, to the expeditions of Cass and Schoolcraft, 

Nicollet and Pike in later years. He presented M 

with several numbers of the u Dakota Friend," the 
first religious newspaper published in the Northwest, 



MISSIONS. 79 

and printed in English and the Sioux language. 
Some of its best articles from his pen, record curious 
customs of the Dakota race, with biographies of those 
earliest settlers of the country, known as " Coureurs 
des bois."* 

The editor of the first newspaper published here, 
facetiously announced it as " The Epistle of St. Paul," 
but afterwards more decorously called it "The Minne 
sota Pioneer." Its first number appeared in April 
1849. 

The prospects of the missions on the Mississippi 
and Minnesota Rivers are at present discouraging, but 
the laborers in that field, who have been long with the 
Sioux, work on with prayer and self-denial, unwilling 
to leave the people with whom they have cast their 
lot, and looking in faith for the hour when spiritual 
light will break upon the benighted race. It is 
thought that, reluctant to lose what little has been 
gained, they will cling to the fortunes of the Dakotas, 

* Miss C , who furnished me with this information, says, quot 
ing Mr. Neill : So little do the Dakotas know of law, that no words in 
their tongue can be found, which will accurately convey that passage 
in the prayer of our Lord &lt;; Thy kingdom come, Thy will be done." 
Gov. Ramsey holds this language : " As a political community the 
Dakotas live almost without law. Slight, indeed, among all the tribes 
of the Northwest, is the influence of their chiefs ; the braves, who con 
stitute a sort of aristocratic estate, keep them in awe, and through 
the depression of fear, the chiefs hesitate in council to express an inde 
pendent opinion. For this reason, upon the occasion of transacting 
important business, they always insist upon the presence of a large 
number of their people. Should they sign a treaty, or do any act 
binding upon their tribe&gt; contrary to popular approbation, it is very 
probable their lives would be the forfeit." 



80 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

when they leave their ancient homes, and take up 
their journey towards the Rocky Mountains. The 
train from the Red River had just brought news of the 
murder of a young teacher sent last year from St. Paul 
to the Selkirk settlement, by a party of Yankton Sioux, 
who are hostile to the inhabitants of Pembina, it is 
supposed on account of their relations to the Chippe- 
was. It is well -known that there has been a feud 
from time immemorial between the Sioux and Chippe- 
was, two of the most powerful Indian nations in the 
territories of the United States. 

M had an interview with the Roman Catholic 

Bishop of the diocese of Minnesota, Rt. Rev. Joseph 
Cretin, who informed her there were about nine hun 
dred members of that church in the Territory. There 
are Catholic schools for boys and for girls, and one 
for both sexes at the Episcopal Mission house. 

The city of St. Paul must be the central point of 
business for the Northwest, from Lacquiparle to the Mis 
souri, to the Red River of the North, and thence to Lake 
Superior. Its growth has been one of unexampled ra 
pidity, and fortunately for its prosperity and the well- 
being of its citizens, the Maine Liquor law is now in 
force throughout the Territory. The expenses of liv 
ing are much more moderate than could be supposed 
possible, in view of the fact that all supplies must be 
brought up the river, and that navigation is suspended 
for a large portion of the year. Board at the best 
hotel costs but a dollar and a half a day, and from 
three to five dollars a week. Rent is high, for the 
houses are too few to accommodate the increasing num- 



INDIANS. 81 

bers who want them, and labor commands excellent 
wages, a man receiving twenty, and a female servant 
from ten to twelve dollars per month. Mechanics can 
earn two dollars or more a day. 

The curious blending of savage and civilized life 
attracted our attention. The lodges of the Dakotas 
had vanished from the opposite shore, those lands 
having passed from their possession, but their canoes 
yet glided over the waters of the Mississippi, and we 
met them whenever we stepped outside the door ; nay, 
they would almost every day enter the parlors of the 
hotel, seat themselves unceremoniously, and remain 
for hours, seldom speaking unless addressed, and 
always intimating that they did not understand Eng 
lish. They never answer discourteously, however, to a 
salutation in their own musical tongue. The men are 
generally painted elaborately, some of them showing 
visages of the brightest flame color, streaked with 
black, blue or yellow. They usually wear white or 
scarlet blankets striped with black, and have their 
heads decorated with eagle feathers badges of victory 
for each represents the scalp of a Chippewa. Their 
ornaments of shells, pewter, brass, &c., are of every 
possible variety ; some of the braves have bells fasten 
ed to their leggins, or perfume bottles tied to the ends 
of their braided locks ; and now and then a warrior 
clad in skins sports a necklace of bear s claws about 
his neck. Any attempt to give a general idea of their 
costume, when every one loads himself with all the 
tinsel and ragged finery he can find, would be perfectly- 
useless. The women carry their pappooses, like the 



82 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

Chippewas, on their backs, strapped to a board, or 
dangling over their dirty blankets, seemingly insensi 
ble to the fatigue of the mother s careless walk, or the 
heat of the sun shining directly in their faces. These 
Indians wander through the streets for the purpose of 
begging, trading, or amusing themselves, and return 
in the evening to their distant places of encampment. 
A cousin of mine, who had much veneration for the 
aboriginal race, on stepping ashore not long since from 
the steamboat, accosted a dignified looking chief, and 
was answered by a somewhat prolonged speech in the 
deep, harmonious Dakota tones. Supposing it a poeti 
cal apostrophe, he begged an explanation of an inter 
preter, and was informed that the chief was asking 
him for an apple ! The Winnebagoes are more cleanly 
and respectable looking : their tribe is said to be the 
richest on the continent, for there are only about 
twenty-five hundred of them, and their payments from 
government amount, to some ninety thousand dollars. 
At St. Anthony a handsome young girl of that tribe, 
who was said to have an American lover, was in the 
habit of coming every day into the parlor of the hotel, 
and talking volubly to us ; pretending she could not un 
derstand us, though her blushes and laughter often be 
trayed her knowledge of what we were speaking about. 
She presented me with a string of glass beads, and 
another lady with a pewter ring, in token of remem 
brance. 

In the afternoon we walked about the city, which 
is divided into the upper and lower town. There is a 
landing for steamboats in each. The edge of the high 



SPRING CAVE. 83 

bluff in the centre of the town, affords a fine prome 
nade, with one of the most superb views in the world, 
and ought never to have been cut up into building 
lots. 

Early the next morning, Gov. E. and his beautiful 
and accomplished wife accompanied us in a drive to 
" Spring Cave," about two miles up the river. A rus 
tic pavilion stands in the woods, where lights can 
be procured to enter the cave. A footbridge over a 
narrow ravine, and a winding path descending into 
its depths and leading through it a short distance, 
brought us to the entrance. This is in a small amphi 
theatre of white sandstone cliffs resembling loaf-sugar ; 
along their bajie on one side rushed a stream of the 
clearest water that ever flowed, issuing from the cave, 
and dashing merrily along over the snow-white sand, its 
transparent waters sparkling like a shower of diamonds. 
After a lively progress through the shaded ravine, 
it skirts the rich bottom land, and hastens to carry its 
tribute to the Mississippi. The arched entrance, with 
its pillars of sand, and the bright streamlet gushing 
out at one side, was beautiful as a marble temple. 
You enter a winding passage, and soon lose the day 
light, the stream becoming^arger and more boisterous, 
till on arriving at a narrower rift, a roar is heard 
like that of a cataract concealed in the bowels of the 
earth. 

Those who do not mind wet feet and soiled dress 
may proceed, ascending the rocks, to several spacious 
chambers, and see the rapids and the waterfall ; thence 
onward the passage narrows again, and our penetration 



84 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

did not extend farther. No doubt the beauty of the 
place would reward search ; but as there was no pros 
pect of finding any trophies in the way of stalactites, 
we left the honor to more persevering travellers. 

Returning down the river, in about half a mile we 
meet this pretty stream in a new freak of gayety. A 
miniature waterfall flashes through the depths of a nar 
row dell, making thirteen successive shoots in a wind 
ing course, each falling into a lovely basin several feet 
in depth, which serves for a bathing-place, curtained by 
a drapery of woods. This little cascade is closely em 
bowered in foliage of vivid green, and its picturesque 
beauty makes up for the want of grandeur. It is a 
lovely spot to spend a summer morning or afternoon. 

The view of the country in this drive was a deli 
cious one ; every feature that can give varied beauty 
to a landscape was there, and one could not help won 
dering at the ease with which this fertile and delightful 
land can be subdued to yield the choicest products of 
cultivation. At present it is said the most profitable 
crop is potatoes, but we were assured by those who 
know more about farming than ourselves, that the soil 
is excellent for agricultural purposes. The salubrious 
climate, and bracing air, invigorate the human frame 
for both physical and mental exertion. In winter we 
are told, the stillness and dryness of the atmosphere 
enable one to endure with comfort a degree of cold that 
would be intolerable in St. Louis. With all the en 
couragement to emigration, it cannot be wondered at 
that every steamboat comes laden with new settlers. 
In a few years the tall bluffs that encircle St. Paul, in- 



VIEW OF ST. PAUL. 85 

closing the plain as in an amphitheatre, may be 
sprinkled with country residences, boasting more ad 
vantages of location than many of the proudest Euro 
pean villas. 

One of our party thus described a view of the town 
and its vicinity from the residence of Mr. H. M. Eice, 
on a bluff about a mile to the west. " To our left lay 
the town, climbing the gently rising slopes, some of 
the houses perched on the extreme ascent, and the 
river, like a sparkling line of silver, curling around the 
base of all. In the southeast is a mass of green trees 
and foliage, and all along the horizon, as far as the 
eye can reach, it rests upon wooded eminences. To the 
south is the rich bottom-land of the Mississippi, 
sprinkled over with burr oaks the kind most abun 
dant in this part of Minnesota, looking like the apple 
trees of an orchard, disposed, as is usual, about the 
houses situated among them. 

" A clear spring just on the hill side, bursting from 
its green brink, goes bounding down, and you may 
trace its course by the richer growth and hue of the 
velvet turf that spreads out like a carpet through the 
valley. On the west is the aspiring little town of 
Mendota, with its clustering white tenements, and 
though we cannot see it, we know that just above is 
Fort Snelling, where the prairie, shaded to a paler 
green, meets and mingles with the blue of the sky. 
Stretching off in the rear, is a beautiful opening, 
through which winds to St. Paul a delightful road, all 
the way smooth and firm as a floor." 

The opposite shore of the Mississippi is still called 



86 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

" the Sioux country," as it was in reality before last 
year s treaty, and is still by partial occupation, notwith 
standing the flood of emigration that has been let loose 
this season. The Sioux and Winnebagoes who are seen 
wandering in and about the town, have their lodging 
places on the prairie or in the woods in the vicinity, 
where a few kettles and mouldering embers mark their 
place of encampment. They live chiefly on the fish 

and game they procure. M and I, while hunting 

cornelians on the Mississippi shore, with some others, 
amused ourselves with watching a Sioux woman cook 
ing a heron one of the savages had captured. She 
built a fire by a stump, brought about a quart of wa 
ter from the river and washed the bird as she divided 
it. placing the fragments, after a very slight washing, 
over the fire to stew. The claws and entrails she roast 
ed and took to her companions in a canoe, to eat as 
choice morsels, while the supper was in preparation. 
The condition of these wild Indians, driven from 
their ancient homes by the encroachment of civilization, 
is pitiable enough, and it must sadden the philanthro 
pist and the Christian, to see the hopeless darkness and 
misery which seems to be their lot. The remedy 
must be provided by judicious legislation and patient 
perseverance in the work of doing good. The system 
of annual payments in money is an unfortunate one for 
them, inducing them to neglect making any provision 
for themselves, and leaving them, simple and credulous 
as they are, to the host of unprincipled traders who 
obtain their money by offering tempting gewgaws at 
an extravagant price. One well acquainted with their 



CONDITION OF THE INDIANS. 87 

habits Nathaniel McLean says : " The views of 
most of those who have lived the longest among the 
Indians agree in one respect, that is, that no great or 
beneficial change can take place in their condition un 
til the general government has made them amenable to 
local laws laws which will punish the evil disposed, 
and secure the industrious in their property and 
individual rights, and thereby give them greater 
inducements to acquire property, and with it those 
many and increasing wants, which are not only the 
consequence, but the safeguard of civilization. Laws 
of this nature would also strike at the very root of one 
of the greatest evils which exist among them their 
system of communism. It retards every thing like pro 
gress in the desire of bettering their condition. The 
most energetic and well disposed cannot rise above the 
vagabond and worthless. Indeed they are generally 
the best off who do the least, if they have a tact for 
begging or keeping their neighbors in apprehension. 
If the Indians could once be made industrious, the 
greatest difficulty would be surmounted. How then 
can this be accomplished, unless each man is secured 
the fruits of his labor ? and that can only be effected 
by the legislative enactment of the general government. 
" The present system of farming, it is now admitted 
by most persons, is entirely wrong. It surely never 
was the intention to labor for the Indians, instead of 
teaching and showing them how labor was to be done. 
Perhaps, in this respect, no great change can be effected 
with the old men and grown up persons of the present 
generation, but a wide field will doubtless be opened 



88 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

for the advancement of the young and rising gen 
eration, by means of manual labor schools. With the 
Indian race, perhaps more than any other, industry 
should go hand in hand with mental culture. It is 
useless to talk of regeneration and change of heart, 
so long as they are permitted to prowl about, a set of 
lazy, listless vagabonds. In that state occasional bursts 
of excitement are absolute necessities of existence. 
The hunter s life supplies this, and it is antagonistic to 
any thing like quiet industry, or even the first approach 
to civilization." 



CUSTOMARY EXCURSION. 89 



VII. 



THE best thing visitors can do, after establishing them 
selves at the Eice House, and taking a survey of the 
curiosities of St. Paul, is to secure places in one of 
Willoughby and Powers stages for what is called " the 
grand tour." This line runs three times a day between 
St. Paul and St. Anthony, and some are always at the 
landing on the arrival of the boats, to serve the conve 
nience of passengers who wish to accomplish speedily 
what they have to do. They are new and handsome 
coaches, and the drivers are invariably civil and oblig 
ing. To accommodate any party desiring to make the 
excursion, they will make the tour referred to ; driving 
first to St. Anthony and allowing time for a view of 
the different falls ; then crossing the river and prairie 
to Lakes Harriet and Calhoun, the passengers taking 
a picnic dinner on the shore; thence to the Minneha- 
ha Falls and Fort Snelling, and by the Spring Cave to 
St. Paul, arriving in time for the visitors, if in haste, 
to return with the boat down the river. 

We were summoned from our pastime of looking 
at the Indians by the stage horn, and found it waiting 
for us, nearly filled with passengers. Two of us took 
places on the top of the coach, the seats being well se- 



90 SUMMER EAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

cured, and affording a splendid view of the country. 
A backwoods-looking, but civil man came up, and 
drew back when he found the inside full, and three 
besides the driver, perched aloft. We would not how 
ever permit his courtesy to deprive him of a place. 
He informed us he had been a passenger on board the 
" Ben Campbell," and had observed our party ; but " did 
not like to intrude " on our notice, as he did not happen to 
be "dressed for society." He had a deal of the nasal 
twang of Yankeedom, and his phraseology was de 
cidedly primitive, yet he showed much intelligence, 
and made some very sensible remarks on the country. 
He gave us to understand that he was seeking a loca 
tion for a "new home," having obtained his wife s 
consent to remove if he could buy land that afforded a 
chance for making a fortune ; yet he, as the driver 
afterwards said, was worth a hundred thousand dollars 
already. The solution of the mystery was easily given 
by himself. " The universal cry is more money, and 
while I am in the meridian of life, I want to create an 
independence for my children." With all his rough 
exterior, he seemed to possess an extensive knowledge 
of literature ; criticized the poetry of Dryden, Pope, 
and other English classics, and compared with them 
the poetry of Bryant, Longfellow, and a number of 
American bards, in a manner that showed he had read 
and appreciated them. If to be spoken of by the 
workmen in the mines, or to have a well thumbed 
copy of one s poems in a kitchen window, be the true- 
est fame, to be quoted by a land hunter on the top of 
a Minnesota stage is certainly something. 



DKIVE TO ST. ANTHONY. 91 

After leaving St. Paul, you cross a fine breadth of 
prairie land, varied with the scrub or oak prairie 
which occupies so large a portion of the uncultivated 
country. At no great distance, a number of queer 
looking short and narrow carts, with immense wheels, 
attracted the attention ; they formed a portion of the 
train from the settlements on the Eed Eiver of the North, 
several hundred miles distant, which had come down 
in about twenty-nine days, bringing furs and other 
commodities to exchange for supplies of provisions, 
etc. These carts are constructed entirely of wood, 
without a particle of iron ; and hence their cumbrous 
appearance. They are commonly drawn each by one 
ox ; but a recent improvement had substituted horses, 
with which they came on this trip. The remainder of 
the train was at Traverse des Sioux, expecting proba 
bly that the freight they wanted would be conveyed 
that far by the boats navigating the Minnesota Eiver ; 
an expectation, we thought, likely to be disappointed, 
if the extreme and unprecedented drought which had 
continued for a month should dry up the rivers much 
longer. 

At the halfway house on this picturesque road, 
our friend the land hunter from Indiana alighted, the 
driver declining the fare he offered, for he had been 
some time since at service in the family of the wealthy 
adventurer, and regarded him as an old friend. We 
received a very cordial invitation to visit his family 
at his residence near the Northern Indiana Eailroad. 

Approaching the verge of the bluff which over 
looks the Mississippi, the road continues in view of 



92 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

the river, following it upward. A distant and very 
imposing view of the two largest falls can be obtained, 
when nearing the lower town of St. Anthony. "Was 
there ever a town, by the way, that was not divided 
into upper and lower ? The place has but recently 
emerged from a wilderness into the dignity of a vil 
lage, and owes its rise entirely to the lumber trade 
carried on, the great saw-mill near the falls, it is said, 
sawing several million feet of lumber during the sea 
son. In the summer months the town is much resorted 
to by visitors, especially from the southwestern States. 
These have come in such numbers that no accommo 
dation could be found for them, and they were obliged 
to return with but a glance at the curiosities they had 
come to view. Now the state of things is more favor 
able to the lovers of fine scenery ; an excellent hotel 
the St. Charles having recently passed into the pro 
prietorship of Mr. J. C. Clark, and under his excellent 
management, already obtained a reputation as one of 
the best in the northwestern country. I know not 
where an entire summer can be passed more agreeably 
than at St. Anthony. In addition to beauties of scen 
ery which have become celebrated, a wide unexplored 
territory opens, in which discoveries unnumbered may 
be made, of lakes, rivers, and cascades hitherto un 
known, or of valuable lands to be had for a merely 
nominal price, of which the first claimant is at liberty 
to take undisputed possession. The region round 
about is, moreover, a paradise for the fisherman and 
huntsman. 

The site of St. Anthony is a beautiful one; an 



FALLS OF ST. ANTHONY. 93 

elevated plateau on the east side of the Mississippi over 
looking an extent of prairie. It is about eight miles 
by land from St. Paul, and at high water is the head 
of navigation. Its advantages of water power and 
location will make it one day a great manufacturing 
place. 

It is a pleasant walk or a short drive from the hotel 
along the river to the falls. A pond on the left of the 
rapid current is filled with innumerable logs, floated 
down the river from a distance of several hundred 
miles, and directed from the current into this reservoir, 
to be converted into boards in the saw -mill, which is 
in operation day and night. Above, the rapids extend 
half a mile a broad wild waste of tumbling waters 
bordered by craggy shores, which, when the current 
is swollen by the spring flood, must present a sight 
rivalling the celebrated rapids of St. Mary s Eiver. 
A little below, a foot-bridge two boards wide, shackling 
and uncertain, but safe enough at the present season, 
conducts you to an elevated, rocky island, which 
divides the two principal falls. This island is inha 
bited, and thickly wooded, and about one hundred 
yards wide. Crossing it at the upper end to the shore, 
and descending to a smooth ledge of rock, you come 
soon to the shelf of rock which faces the great fall of 
St. Anthony. This is worn by the water into a cres 
cent form, and embraces three separate falls, besides 
smaller cascades. The perpendicular descent is not 
more than eighteen feet ; but the vast body of water, 
the force with which it precipitates itself, the curve of 
the rock, and the wild beauty of the rapids above and 



94: SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

below, together with the rush and roar of the waters, 
lashed into fury by their arrest among the boulders 
and logs heaped in wildest confusion at the foot of the 
descent over which they leap, throwing volumes of 
rainbow-crowned spray into the air, combine to im 
press the beholder with emotions of awe and admira 
tion. When the river is at its greatest height, the 
swollen torrent descends with such impetuosity as to 
describe a large curve in falling, and open a cavern in 
the very sanctuary of the flood, where one may enter 
behind the falling mass, and retire so far into its reces 
ses as to be scarcely wetted. The heaped mass of 
broken rocks, etc., is then overswept by the flood, or 
veiled by clouds of foam and spray ; and the small 
island at the foot of the fall, which conceals the oppo 
site fall and rapids from view, is half-buried in the 
rushing waters. There is no access to this island, ex 
cept in winter over the frozen river. It is called 
" Spirit Island," from an Indian legend associatsd with 
it. 

These falls are said to have been discovered about 
1680 by Father Hennepin, who named them after his 
patron saint, St. Anthony. It is only within about 
thirty or thirty-five years that they have been noticed 
by Americans, and but recently that the number of 
visitors to them in a season has been considerable. 

The entire descent in three-quarters of a mile has 
been estimated at sixty feet. Immense pieces of the 
rock are breaking off continually, and the falls are said 
to have receded several rods even since the recollec 
tion of persons who have visited them. The gorge 



FALLS OF ST. ANTHONY. 95 

below, with its craggy precipices, is wild and pictu 
resque. Along its precipitous cliffs may be gathered 
in abundance the petrified moss, a noted product of 
this region, made by the dripping of limestone water 
from the rock below the falls. 

To view the fall on the other side of the river, it is 
necessary to recross the foot-bridge and walk up to the 
larger horse-bridge ; then to cross this and go down 
the hill to the ferry. This is another curiosity the 
ferry-boat moving with its burden across the rapid 
water without the aid of machinery, steam or horse 
power. Having reached the opposite shore, walk 
down the river to the old government mill on the 
bank, and a fine view is obtained of the tremendous 
rapids which form the other great fall. The grandeur 
of the scene grows on the sense, which becomes en 
larged as you gaze upon it, to apprehend more and to 
be filled with a new conception of the greatness of the 
Creator of all this wondrous magnificence. Having 
feasted the eyes long upon this surpassing spectacle, 
you may return and recross the ferry and retrace your 
steps down to the precipitous bank that overlooks the 
Little Fall. A small division of the river is here pre 
cipitated down the rocks, but though less grand it is 
equally beautiful with the larger falls. Descending 
by a steep path, you walk along the fallen rocks, step 
ping from one large mass to another, till you stand 
within the circle of the fall, and so near that its silvery 
spray covers you, and you feel the rock tremble under 
your feet. The boulders, piled in much confusion, form 
numerous rifts into which the waters are driven when 



96 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

they plunge from above. There are two large falls ; and 
the water of one, in its descent pitching on an upright 
mass of rock, falls over it in a broad sheet of foam, into 
the same basin that receives the descending torrent on 
the other side. These waters, flung together and 
churned into creamy foam, struggle wildly in the nar 
row rift, and bursting forth with tremendous impetu 
osity, flinging up volumes of spray, dash onward in a 
tortuous course to precipitate themselves down ano 
ther descent, whence, joined by the smaller jets, and 
broken into a thousand crested waves by the fragments 
of rock, they move onward to the valley. The be 
holder must spend hours on this spot, drinking in its 
bewildering loveliness, before he can understand how 
completely the feelings may be subdued into harmony 
with the scene. 

On the following morning an open barouche was 
in readiness to take us to the other interesting locali 
ties in the neighborhood. We crossed the ferry and 
ascending a low hill, found ourselves on an extensive 
prairie, a portion of the ground embraced in the military 
reservation of an area about ten miles square, of which 
Fort Snelling is near the centre. This green and 
softly undulating expanse was profusely covered with 
tall white, yellow and purple flowers, tossed by every 
breeze ; at wide intervals stood newly framed houses 
ready for occupancy, but without shade or water as far 
as could be seen ; and here and there an unfinished 
frame or standing boards marked a * claim or indication 
that some " squatter " had selected that portion of land 
for his residence and intended improvements. The 



LAKE CALHOUN. 97 

trenches ploughed in the soil showed the boundaries of 
his claim. The road is smooth and straight, requiring 
and receiving no mending ; for the sandy soil drinks the 
rain without becoming the worse for it. The sloughs 
already alluded to as a peculiar feature in western travel, 
formed the exception to this rule. It was our lot on a 
subsequent excursion to encounter one, the stage having 
taken the road to the left, down to the old mill, for 
the purpose of affording the passengers a view of the 
Falls. The deceitful quagmire, covered with its green 
turf, was directly in the road, and the wheels going 
into it on the side nearest the river, we came as near 
an overturn as could be without accomplishing it. 
The sweep of landscape, varied only by the rolling of 
the prairie, and a tuft of trees now and then, with the 
distant border of forest land, offers an exhilarating 
view, particularly when the breeze, fresh and cool as 
if just from its play on the waste of waters, comes ca 
reering over it. Before the agreeable sense of novelty 
is over, and you have done turning from side to side 
to think how absolutely grand is such a prospect, the 
attention is suddenly arrested by a new picture. A 
line of blue on the edge of the horizon widens, there 
is a gradual sloping of the land, and in front, just be 
low, lies the clear and beautiful sheet of Lake Cal- 
houn. 

This is said to have been named by officers of the 
army, some thirty-five years ago, in honor of the great 
statesman. It is two miles in length, and nearly circular, 
and with its bordering of bold shores on the other side, 
covered with a close garniture of woods, the gradual 
5 



98 SUMMEK RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

descent of the green prairie to its beach, and its waters 
clear as crystal, rippling over white pebbles, offers an 
irresistible temptation to linger near it. A little way 
down, a neat house stood on the bank ; this was occu 
pied by M. Brissette, an intelligent Frenchman, who 
has lived twelve or fourteen years in the vicinity. His 
wife is a half-breed, but speaks good French, and he 
has children by a former marriage, who lodged in the 
vicinity, having a tent pitched at hand on the green 
grass, in which mattresses were laid, all looking so 
cleanly and fresh as to give a luxurious idea of that 
kind of lodging. "We were refreshed here by some 
cold water from the lake, and M. Brissette showed us a 
bag of cornelians and agates he had gathered from the 
beach, civilly inviting us to take what specimens we 
pleased. He keeps boats and fishing tackle for the ac 
commodation of visitors, and his wife will set them 
out as good a dinner as could be wished. 

A drive of two miles further brought us within view 
of Lake Harriet, named, tradition says, in honor of the 
wife of one of the officers at Fort Snelling, though 
certainly not of the commander s wife, for her name 
was Abigail. Approaching this sheet of water, which 
is like the other in purity and beauty, but with shores 
a little less elevated, we passed a strip of luxuriant bot 
tom land, forming a small prairie. It had the much 
desired tall grass which grows only in moist soil, and 
waved like a field of standing grain as the wind swept 
over it. The outlet of Lake Calhoun skirts it in a 
rather sluggish stream, which gains impetus, however, 
as it nears Lake Harriet, and rushes into the latter with 



CAMPING IN THE WOODS. 99 

the force of a rapid. We drove a little way into the 
lake the white sandy bottom gently sloping and 
smooth, and regaining the shore, followed the road 
around the upper end of the lake through the 
woods. 

On the side opposite the outlet, within the shelter 
of the woods, were encamped the soldiers employed in 
cutting wood for Fort Snelling. Their tents were 
pitched around, and a rude open shed contained their 
cooking implements,. and served for a kitchen. It was 
a comfortable picture of gipsy or pioneer life, bar 
ring the dirt and confusion of the interior of these 
canvass houses, so out of keeping with the fragrant 
herbage nature provides for their flooring, and the 
canopy of foliage swept by the besom of her winds and 
washed by rain sent from the " sweet heavens ! " Since 
the days of our western pioneers, the more self-indulg 
ent class of travellers have seemed to eschew this 
primitive shelter ; ll camping out" has been looked upon 
as a hardship rather than a luxury ; and though a few 
adventurous young men may do it for a frolic, any 
women who should venture upon such an innovation 
could hardly fail to find themselves styled "come- 
outers" and "independents" in the most barbarous 
sense of the words. Yet if a few of them could get 
up sufficient self-reliance to undertake a journey 
through the wild parts of our country, and be content 
to lodge in this manner, how great would be the gain 
in health and pleasure ! 

Eeturning round the end of the lake, and crossing 
a plain thinly sprinkled with oaks, by any course that 



100 SUMMER EAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

proves most convenient, the road is regained. Through 
the prairie we now traverse, winds the outlet of 
the lakes, and is followed by the road. It is a bright 
swift stream, taking its way betwixt clean banks fring 
ed with a thick growth of wild grass, variegated with 
flowers, and is called Little Falls Creek. It should be 
mentioned that this stream is the outlet of a long chain 
of lakes, but twelve of which have yet been explored 
at all. A bridge leads across it, and in a few moments 
it is shrouded from view by the trees on its banks. 
Further on we stand on the level of a bluff, and here 
we alighted to view one of the most beautiful of na 
ture s works. 

Parting the foliage, and descending a little way 
downward to a ledge of rock, you come into full view 
of Little Falls, or, as the Indians more poetically term 
it, the falls of Minne-ha-ha. In the green, shadowy 
depth of a wild gorge, curtained by thick woods on 
either hand, the swift stream above described pre 
cipitates itself in an unbroken descent of some sixty or 
seventy feet: the waters forming an arch of snowy 
foam and spray in their wild leap to the rapids below. 
None of the falls of Trenton are equal in beauty to 
this ; and we viewed it with even more pleasure than 
those of St. Anthony. 

The rock in which is set this gem of a cascade, is 
semicircular in form, and precipitous, dark and wild ; 
the curve described by the falling waters leaving a 
cavern behind them, through which visitors can pass 
to the other side. The suddenness with which this 
vision of beauty bursts upon the sight ; the contrast 



MINKE-HA-HA. , .101 



of the white foaming waters, with th.&lt;Jeje]3 -gu^en- oj; 
the foliage, and the dark caverji/.^oljiiicl ; tlio" delicate 
streaks of light green in the falling mass ; the brilliant 
sunshine imprisoned in its showery spray, and the 
rainbows dancing over it; all combine to form a scene 
of such enchanting loveliness as to take the senses cap 
tive, and steep the soul in the purest enjoyment this 
earth can afford. With a little trouble one may de 
scend to the foot of the cascade and seat himself within 
reach of its diamond-like spray, listening for hours to 
its deep voice of music, its everlasting anthem of praise 
for a being which is not in vain. 

The meaning of the Indian name of this exquisite 
waterfall is u The Laughing Waters" and the name is 
well applied, for they do laugh, if not " fiercely glad," 
like the wild torrents of Chamouny, in the full joy of 
their flashing and sparkling beauty, and the ravine 
echoes the sound of their jubilant exultation. One 
should pass a day at their feet, not amid " precipitous, 
black, jagged rocks," whose shattered fragments tell 
of desolation, but in the lap of nature s most spirit- 
stealing nooks, where all around speaks of peace and 
smiling content. It is a spot where we may suppose 
the delicate genius of youth to have hid himself when 
he forsook that portion of the earth which, as the 
Italian poet says, " growing old, grows sad ;" and here 
he may harbor as of yore, 

"Making sunshine out of shade." 

Passing on, the view opens, and from the high bluff 
is seen the Mississippi, with the wooded heights oppo- 



102 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 



.a stretch, of country for miles onward. The 
uhs View Vjf ]? art Spelling, its flag gleaming in re 
lief against the sky, is startlingly fine ; but the nearer 
one, after a little rise, is yet more imposing. Its white 
walls and barracks are clearly defined, with other neat 
buildings in the vicinity ; and all around and beyond 
lies spread the most magnificent panoramic display on 
which the eye ever rested. The Mississippi appears 
between its lofty bluffs, and the rich and extensive 
valley of the Minnesota Eiver, seen in its serpentine 
course, is one of the most beautiful in the world. The 
village of Mendota is seen on the side opposite the fort, 
and the varied landscape beyond is bounded by ranges 
of hills rising one above another, the highest fading 
into the misty blue of the horizon. The view is too 
extensive to be embraced in a single picture to which 
any artist could do justice ; but the eye can take it in, 
and will linger over it long with increasing delight. 

A situation more commanding than that of Fort 
Snelling as seen from the Mississippi, can hardly be 
imagined. Its solid walls rise from the summit of na 
ture s rampart of perpendicular rock, more than a 
hundred feet above the river. It stands at the junc 
tion of the Minnesota and Mississippi Eivers, and is 
one of the strongest military posts in the Northwest. 
It was begun in 1819 or 1820, and not finished for 
some years, having been named by Gen. Scott in honor 
of the commandant, Col. Snelling. 

Every visitor at the Fort will be struck with the 
neatness and order prevailing in its interior. The 
buildings are substantial and elegant, and a large farm, 



FOKT SPELLING INDIANS. 103 

with gardens, is attached to it, cultivated under the 
superintendence of the officers. Several Indians were 
walking about within the walls, better dressed than 
the generality ; one or two sported cloth coats, fur 
hats, and military plumes, with their leggins and moc 
casins, while others were decked in every variety of sav 
age finery, trinkets of silver and pewter being suspended 
from their ears and around their necks. They had 
pipes with wooden stems, four feet long, and all carried 
tomahawks. On the occasion of another visit, I saw 
some two hundred Indians who had come to receive a 
supply of provisions, and were assembled on the hill 
opposite Fort Snelling. The women and children 
formed a large circle on the plain, and were standing 
without shelter from the burning August sun to receive 
their share of pork and lard, which two squaws in the 
centre were distributing. The bags of meal or flour 
standing by each group showed that it had been al 
ready disposed of. It was sad to see their squalid 
poverty and care of this scanty allowance, which 
would hardly last until their return to their homes up 
the Minnesota. At a short distance several of the 
men, gayly decorated and painted, one or two appear 
ing to be chiefs, were lying on the ground engaged in 
a game of cards staking their brass bracelets and 
other ornaments. One sullen looking fellow wore 
slung on his shoulder a quiver full of beautiful arrows, 
barbed and curiously feathered. I drew out one to 
examine it, when, with a frown, he snatched it from 
iny hand, and restored it to its place. Most of them, 
however, were quite willing to part with either arrows 



104: SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

or pipes for a present in money. Crossing the ferry, 
and ascending the rocky hill on the other side, in a 
drive of four or five miles through oak openings of 
unrivalled beauty, we met several Indians on horse 
back, carrying their guns, and having bells like sleigh 
bells ; apparently a hunting party. They stared at us 
with as much curiosity as we at them, and probably 
with impressions not more favorable. Certainly those 
whose ideas of the wild Indians are derived from the 
highly colored pictures of novelists, will risk many 
disappointments in seeing the reality. 

Mendota is a growing place, and has been an im 
portant depot for the fur trade with the Indians. 
Skins of buffalo, elk, fox, beaver, and almost every 
variety, may be found here. There is a store in St. 
Paul for the deposit of peltry brought by the Eed Eiver 
trains, but we found the prices not much lower than 
in New- York. Indeed, but few articles of value or 
curiosity are brought down the rivers; most of what 
is offered for sale coming from below. The words 
"Indian curiosities," blazoned over several stores near 
the landings, create expectations seldom satisfied. The 
only rarity I was able to find, brought from Pembina, 
was a small bark sack, made in rude resemblance to a 
house, and filled with dried berries from that remote 
region. 

The day had become very warm, or the drive back 
to St. Anthony would have been a charming one. 
The distant view of this place is remarkably fine. It 
shows on the elevation where it stands, like a town of 
much larger size. We reached the St. Charles in time 



CARVER S CAYE. 105 

to partake of a late though excellent dinner, and found 
some friends from Chicago. 

The Dakotas gave to Carver s Cave, in Dayton s 
Bluff, about two miles from St. Paul, down the Mis 
sissippi, the name of Wakon Tepee house of the 
spirit. It is supposed to be the place where, a century 
ago, the chiefs held their councils, and bones of the 
dead were brought from a distance to be buried on 
the heights above. Carver visited the cave in 1767 
with some chiefs of the bands on the Minnesota Kiver, 
from whom he pretended that he received a grant of 
the land embracing his claim to the capital of Minne 
sota. He describes the cave as having a tolerably 
wide entrance, a spacious arch within, and a lake of 
transparent water, a stone thrown into which pro 
duced a wonderful reverberation. He also speaks of 
ancient hieroglyphics cut rudely on the walls. Long 
since, however, all this has been changed ; the roof of 
the cave fell in many years since, and the entrance, 
formerly accessible by a steep passage from the brink 
of the river, was closed entirely in 1820. Since then 
some excavations have been made, and the place now 
looks like a half dug cellar. In a pamphlet issued by 
the Minnesota Historical Society, in 1850, is a poem 
translated by Sir John Herschel, from the German of 
Schiller, entitled "Death song of a Nadowessee chief," 
suggested by reading a funeral address made in this 
cave by a Dakota chief. 

Probably no country in the world more abounds 
in small lakes than Minnesota. Between the St. Croix 
and the Mississippi, they are innumerable. Their 
5* 



106 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

waters are crystal clear, their shores covered with 
sparkling pebbles, and one side is usually shaded by a 
dense growth of timber. Many of them have a growth 
of wild rice, among which are multitudes of water 
fowl; and sometimes the lake opens into a swamp 
thickly rilled with young tamaracs ; the water pour 
ing out into another reservoir, and forming another lake. 
Numbers are thus connected by one stream, all alive 
with fish and wild fowl, the game of the woods being 
less abundant. 

I have mentioned the "claims" set up in various 
portions of the unsurveyed land recently ceded by the 
Sioux. The erection and temporary occupation of 
the rudest shelter, has been deemed sufficient to en 
title the claimant to a pre-emption right to the portion 
marked out, not exceeding a quarter of a section or 
one hundred and sixty acres. Minnesota calls for 
emigrants ; and with her fertile, wooded and watered 
territory, her advantages of navigable rivers, her 
sweeping prairies, her vast tracts rich in valuable 
timber, and her increasing lumber trade, new comers 
will throng to her. With the sure prospect of grow 
ing wealthy by industry and management, the settler 
has few or none of the privations of a pioneer to en 
counter ; supplies can be had, and a ready market for 
produce, close at hand. 

The Falls of St. Anthony are the point of transi 
tion from the rugged and craggy bordering of the river 
below to the gentle undulations of the prairie land 
above. There is a small steamer which ascends the 
Mississippi as high as Sauk Eapids, when the state of 



RUM EIVER SPIRIT LAKE. 107 

the water permits, and another to Fort Kipley ; but 
this season it was impossible to make the trip. The 
stage runs once a week from St. Paul to Crow Wing, a 
few miles from Fort Eipley. The road, which nature 
herself has formed, continues from the Falls along the 
east bank of the river, which is in sight part of the 
way. The land consists of prairies, diversified with 
scattered groves of dwarf oak; and one is noted for a 
cold boiling spring in the Mississippi, which throws up 
gravel and pebbles with a loud noise. Though the 
country is not much settled, there are public houses 
enough on this road to provide for the comfort of 
travellers ; and an occasional lodgment under a tent, 
or an impromptu supper, would be so in keeping with 
the wild and beautiful scene, that it could hardly be 
objected to. Benton County is celebrated through all 
the territory for its charming scenery. 

EumEiver is described as a deep, winding and beau 
tiful stream, tinged with a peculiar color by the tama- 
rac swamps through which it flows. It has its source 
in " Spirit Lake," or Mille Lacs, the ancient home and 
hunting camp of the Sioux, and its shores have been 
the scene of their numerous battles with the Ojibwas. 

The country presents the same general character of 
scenery, the streams being skirted with timber, consist 
ing of oak, maple, hickory, elm, birch, etc. Along 
the river shores are none of the precipitous bluffs seen 
below St. Anthony ; the land ascends from the water 
in green and gradual slopes, terminating in a ridge of 
prairie, varied by oak openings and forests of young 
trees. The islands, some of which are very large, are 



108 SUMMEE E AMBLES IN THE WEST. 

covered with a heavy growth of elm, maple, and cotton- 
wood, and wherever there is an abrupt elevation on 
the shore, it is crowned with hoary pines. The views 
at the mouth of Eice Creek, Swan Eiver, and Itasca 
Prairie, are remarkably beautiful. At various points, 
fields may be seen under cultivation, affording rich 
promise of the excellence of the soil. An immense 
tamarac swamp extends along the eastern shore be 
tween St. Anthony and Sauk Eapids, designed, said a 
resident, "to furnish farmers with rails without split 
ting them." These tamarac trees, resembling a forest 
of tapering masts, are very picturesque in the distance. 
The Winnebagoes are to be seen in this region, in 
hunting parties, or their villages, and canoes full of 
them will be met, returning with supplies of provisions 
or goods to their homes. On the approach of the 
steamboat, they will glide into some little nook near 
the shore and wait till it has passed. 

At one point the islands are so numerous and large, 
that they seem to arrogate possession of the channel, 
and the current rushes swiftly between them, giving 
some trouble to the boat ascending it. Buffeting the 
stream as it dashes down the rapids, she triumphs over 
the obstacles of rocks as well as sand-bars, and is pre 
sently at the destined stopping-place. At Sauk Eapids, 
the river spreads out over a wide expanse of granite 
fragments, a bar to further steamboat navigation. A 
row of deserted trading-houses may be seen, the Indian 
trade having been concentrated at Watab, a few miles 
further up the river. The quiet beauty of the valley 



KOUTE TO LAKE SUPERIOR WINNIPEG LAKE. 109 

between the Sank and Watab Elvers, is not surpassed 
in the whole country. 

The distance from St. Paul to Sank Eapids, is 
about eighty miles ; to the mouth of Crow Wing River, 
one hundred and thirty. The Indian agency was re 
moved in 1852 from Sandy Lake to Crow Wing, 
Major Watrous, whom we met the year preceding at 
La Pointe, on Lake Superior, being the agent. The 
best route to this lake, we learned from traders who 
had frequently traversed it, is from Crow Wing up 
the Mississippi in canoes to Sandy Lake ; thence across 
a portage to the St. Louis River, and down that to 
Fond du Lac. Yoyageurs can be hired at a dollar or 
a dollar and a quarter per day ; and for a party of 
three, enough to fill one large canoe, inclusive of pro 
visions, tent, mosquito bars, &c., the expenses would 
be over one hundred dollars. 

Surveys have been made for a road from St. Paul 
to Fond du Lac, and even a railroad is talked of; when 
that is completed, it will bring Minnesota eight or nine 
hundred miles nearer New- York, and open the riches 
of the Northwest to our citizens. A tour unrivalled 
for magnificence of scenery and salubrity of climate, 
can then be made in a few weeks from the seaboard. 

The following description of Winnipeg Lake, fur 
ther towards the sources of the Mississippi, is extract 
ed from Mr. Prout well s Journal, in the annals of the 
Minnesota Historical Society. 

" This is a beautiful body of water, stretching from 
east to west fifteen or twenty miles. Here the aspect 
of the country again assumes a different and a pleasing 



110 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

character. The eastern shore is covered with a luxu 
riant growth of oak and maple. The trading-post is 
located on the northeastern shore, near the mouth of 
a considerable stream which empties into the lake. 
The land immediately about the post, is for the most 
part low, but of a good quality. The corn, peas, po 
tatoes and squashes, all look well, also a small yard of 
tobacco. The soil is cultivated with ease. Dogs in 
this country, with the Canadian French, supply the 
place of oxen and horses, neither pf which are possess 
ed by the trader here. His house is made of logs, and, 
in the manner of the country, ceiled with mud. The 
windows are made of deer skins in their natural state, 
save that the hair is taken off. These, when well oiled, 
admit sufficient light for all the household work done 
here." 

The " scalp-dance " witnessed at Upper Red Cedar 
Lake, is thus described: "Before I had returned to 
our tent, which is pitched but a few yards from two 
graves, the greater part of the Indians had collected, 
and begun the scalp-dance. It was led by three squaws, 
each bearing in her hand one of the recent scalps. 
Two or three men sat beating drums and singing, 
while old and young, male and female, all joined in 
the song. Occasionally all would become so animated 
that there would be one general leap, and all at the 
same time, throwing their heads back, would raise a 
horrid yell, clapping the mouth with the hand, to 
render it, if possible, more terrific. Here were seen 
little boys and girls, not six years old, looking on 
with the most intense interest, imitating their fathers 



SCALP-DANCE CROW RIVER. Ill 

and mothers, and participating in their brutal joy. 
At the head of the graves hung an old scalp, some" 
ten feet above the ground, which the winds had al 
most divested of its ornaments and hair. The grass 
and the turf for several yards around, are literally 
destroyed, I presume, by frequent dancing. One of 
the scalps I examined. The flesh side had apparently 
been smoked and rubbed with some material till it 
was pliant, after which it was painted with vermilion. 
A piece of wood is turned in the form of a horse-shoe, 
into which the scalp is sewed, the threads passing round 
the wood, which keeps it tight. Narrow pieces of 
cloth and ribbons of various colors, attached to the 
bow, were ornamented with beads and feathers. A 
small stick, which serves for a handle to shake it in 
the air when they dance, was attached to the top of 
the bow by a string." 

Sandy Lake has been estimated by some, to be 
twenty-five miles in circumference, and embraces many 
bays and islands. The course of the St. Louis Eiver is 
through a swampy country, and extensive fields of wild 
rice ; but in approaching Lake Superior, the land be 
comes more elevated, and several points command un 
rivalled views of scenery. 

The country watered by the Crow Eiver, is said to 
be equal in beauty and fertility to the valley of the Min 
nesota. One branch of this stream gathers its pure 
waters near the great bend in the Eed Eiver of the 
north, its southern fork draining the lakes as far west 
as Lacquiparle ; it wanders through the " Grand Bois" 
of the old voyageurs, and enters the Mississippi, nearly 



112 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

opposite the village of Itasca. The Undine region of 
Nicollet, situated about the tributaries of the Man- 
kato, or Blue Earth Eiver, is also beautifully diversi 
fied with prairies, lakes, and forest. 

The celebrated valley of the Minnesota River 
called St. Pierre by the French, and until recently, St. 
Peter s extends in a general direction from west to 
east, and, with the country along its tributaries, forms 
the garden spot of the territory. The principal town 
site in this extensive and fertile valley is Traverse des 
Sioux. The treaty with the upper bands was made 
at this place in 1851, when it presented the picturesque 
spectacle of hundreds of Dakota lodges, scattered along 
the sloping hill-side, and a concourse of Indians from 
remote and unexplored regions. 

The mouth of the Blue Earth is about twenty miles 
above ; and twelve miles below, at the head of the 
Big Woods, is La Sueur, a place which the capital 
and enterprise of merchants in St. Paul have already 
made attractive ; situated on a slope rising gradually 
from the shore, in the midst of a fertile and lovely 
country. East of this, and not more than a day s 
drive across smooth prairies and oak groves, lies the 
rich valley of Cannon River, the River La Longue of 
La Hontan, abounding in wooded hills and picturesque 
lakes. 

The Indian trade is chiefly carried on by the agents 
of large establishments, having their depots at St. Paul, 
and locating themselves at different points in the ter 
ritory, and the Indian country ; usually near the places 
where the semi-annual payments are made of annuities 



INDIAN TRADE. 113 

granted by government to the Sioux, Winnebagoes, 
and Chippewas. Supplies for these payments are 
brought up the river, and the goods furnished to the 
Indians by the traders, who buy furs of them, or sell 
at large profits on credit, in anticipation of the pay 
ments. Were I writing a description of Minnesota, 
many other portions of the country should be noticed ; 
but such is not my object, and leaving the task to 
more competent hands, I return to our own rambles. 



114 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 



VIII. 



WHEN has it happened, a discovery of interest, or 
promising useful results, being made, that some one 
has not been ready to observe, with an indifferent 
smile, " Oh, I knew of it long ago ! " " It is an old 
story !" and the like? so strong is the tendency, in 
the human nature that lusteth to envy, to refuse to in 
dustry, research and ingenuity their appropriate reward 
of honor. So, when it was noised abroad that a new 
lake, of surprising magnitude, had been found in the 
vicinity of St. Paul, persons here and there tossed 
their heads, and said, they knew those who had visited 
the same spot years ago ; nay, that they had them 
selves often rode "by the place," and thought nothing 
strange of the enterprise, and had talked of it fami 
liarly with the early settlers. 

"Heard of it!" said an old trader to Miss C . 

" Yes, to be sure I have ; I can t tell for how long. 
Why, there s a Frenchman at Little Six s village, 
eighty-one years old killed duck on the wing last 
spring says he has known of it ever since he can 
remember." This is the old man, we believe, who 
" has lived, for the last sixty years, within ten miles of 



NEW LAKE DISCOVEKED. 115 

the Falls of St. Anthony, but has never yet seen them 
his business never having taken him in that direc 
tion from his home. He says he has visited nineteen 
different encampments in twenty-four hours, all the 
encampments being four miles apart or more, which 
would make a march on foot of at least seventy-six 
miles in twenty-four hours, including stoppages." 

All this may be, and probably was just so. It is 
hardly credible that so large a body of water could 
exist so near Fort Snelling, and be entirely unknown 
or un visited by traders, travellers, or hunters, particu 
larly when they could derive from the Indians what 
information they wanted as to the remarkable localities 
within several days travel. But it is undeniable that 
the generality of residents in the towns and settlements 
knew nothing of it till within a few months past. The 
region, belonging to the Indian, and not available to 
the settler, was not visited or explored, and no de 
scriptions of its beauty of scenery had ever stimulated 
curiosity in regard to it. The honor of making the 
first exploration belongs to Mr. Simon Stevens, of St. 
Anthony, who, in company with Mr. G. A. Tuttle, set 
out in March, 1852, with a determination to find the 
mysterious lake of which they had heard from Indians 
and traders. Having ascertained its probable direc 
tion, they took their course by the compass, expecting 
a much longer journey than they found themselves 
obliged to take, for they came upon it before the day 
was over. Their object had been to find some suit 
able localities for making claims ; and Mr. Stevens 
selected a site affording a fine water-power on the 



116 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

stream which forms the outlet of these lakes, and after 
ward conveys the waters of Lakes Calhoun and Har 
riet to the Mississippi. About two miles from the 
first lake of the chain, a rude hermit s lodge was erect 
ed, in which Mr. Stevens took up his residence. 

His brother, Col. J. H. Stevens, Mr. Franklin 
Steele, and one or two other gentlemen, some time 
after set out to see the lake, which had now begun to 
be generally talked about, and was, by universal con 
sent, called by its Indian name of Minne-tonka, or the 
" Big Water." A gentleman well acquainted with the 
Sioux language tells me the Indians call it Hide-tonka 
the " Big Lake ; " but the first name has been adopted 
and will no doubt be retained. This party of visitors, 
taking with them a boat, provisions, and all conveni 
ences for camping out, proceeded as far as Mr. Stevens s 
lodge, where they were hospitably entertained for the 
night, and the next morning went on in two boats, and 
explored as far as they judged it safe to venture in 
their small crafts on waters lashed into high waves by 
a strong wind. They pronounced the large lake the 
best fishing ground and the finest sheet of water in the 
territory of Minnesota. 

During the summer three other parties of gentle 
men went out, not with any view to exploration, but 
to gratify their curiosity, and amuse themselves by 
fishing and hunting. As there was no road, it was 
not deemed practicable for carriages to go, and no one 
unaccustomed to the endurance of hardship thought of 
such a thing, except in a vision of what might be a 
year or two hence. The idea of women going was 



SACRED STONE. 117 

hooted at as quite out of the question . " It is perfectly 

impossible ! " said Judge ; but he did not explain 

why, as a wagon had been out, it could not go again, 
or why a woman could not keep her seat in it as well 
as a man. This masculine selfishness in appropriating 
the first sights of fine scenery, and the honors of dis 
covery with such overbearing exclusiveness, deter 
mined us on a visit to the far-famed lake. 

Our anxiety to accomplish the excursion was not 
a little increased by the exhibition of a curious oval 
stone brought to St. Paul, by Dr. S., of St Louis, who 
had found it on the top of a promontory overlooking 
one of the largest lakes of the chain. It was placed 
upright between two sticks, painted red, and covered 
with small yellow spots, some of them faded to a brown 
color. On seeking information from a Sioux chief 
respecting this stone, he was told that it was regarded 
as sacred to the Manitou of scalps, and was visited at 
intervals by the warriors on their return from a battle 
with the scalps they had secured. These they placed 
as an offering on the top of the stone, which bore some 
rude resemblance to a human head, danced around it, 
and made the yellow spots to indicate the number of 
braves who joined in the ceremony. The scalps were 
always taken away, and sometimes offerings of tobacco 
were made ; the stone being freshly painted from time 
to time. It had been in that same spot, the Dakota 
said, since his people came to the country, doubtless 
for generations, and had been visited within a year. 
The sticks supporting it were also painted. 

We had been told too, that in the rocks bordering 



118 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

this lake, were many bald eagles nests, which might 
be reached by the hand ; so little fear of man, as yet, 
had these monarchs of the air in this their wild and 
solitary home, which scarce knew the tread of the 
white man, or the flash of Anglo-Saxon paddles. We 
saw also, some eggs of a loon, a pelican, a wild goose 
and a wild duck, brought from the shores of this lake, 
and heard it variously estimated as from twenty-five 
to forty miles in navigable length. 

When one or two resolute spirits are determined 
upon an undertaking, it is easy to find co-operators ; 
and so it proved in the present instance. We drove 
over to St. Anthony, and there made up a party a 
large wagon-load, to start the day after the morrow. 
On the following day I joined a pic-nic party in an 
excursion to Fort Snelling, and the Lakes Harriet and 
Calhoun, and returning in the evening was not a little 
chagrined to find that two of our expected company 
had been persuaded out of their determination by 
croakers, who assured them Minnetonka " was no place 
for ladies." They endeavored, in their turn, to dis 
suade us, but this was now more impossible than ever ; 
and as luck would have it, I found M - arranging 
some flowers to dry, with an agreeable English party, 
who had brought letters to her friend Mr. Eice, and 
through him been introduced to her acquaintance. 
"They had," as she said, " been on the Alps, been on 
the Apennines admired the banks of the beautiful 
Khine, and looked on the cliffs of the Upper Danube 
were familiar with all objects of interest in nature 
or art in the British Isles, and on the continent, as 



ENGLISH PARTY SETTING OUT. 119 

well as the various phases of social and political econ 
omy abroad, and favorably disposed to acquaintance 
with our own society and government." The accession 
to our company of persons of so much taste and intel 
ligence, desirous of enjoying to the utmost the novelty 
of the adventure and beauty of the scenery, was a 
fortunate accident. 

Early on the morning of August llth a large dou 
ble wagon, light, but substantially built to withstand 
the inequalities of the roughest journey, was loaded 
with a basket of provisions supplied from the liberal 
larder of the St. Charles House, such light luggage as 
we wished to carry, and a pile of comforters, blankets 
and " buffaloes," as the skins are familiarly called in the 
country, giving rise to such amusing mistakes as oc 
curred not long since, when a landlord, asking an Eng 
lish traveller if he should supply him "with, two buf 
faloes, or would one answer," received the reply 
"As I am not used to driving them, I will try one 
first." We crossed the bridge to JSTicollet s island, and 
the ferry, and took the road over the prairie to Lake 
Calhoun ; turning off, however, before we reached 
Brissette s, to the right, and passing by a rough track 
around the upper end of that beautiful sheet, in which 
the morning sun was beholding his radiant face as in 
the clearest of mirrors. The gentle ripple came musi 
cally up from the pebbly line of beach, and the skirting 
of timber stretched far away southward, forming a 
deep contrast to the fair blue of the watery expanse, 
and the sloping prairie that borders its eastern shore. 

Leaving the road that bears any sign of travel, we 



120 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

struck into an old Indian trail, that served rather to 
mark the way than to aid our progress. We skirted 
a broad spot of marsh or low prairie, which had once 
been covered with water, and now waved with tall luxu 
riant grass. About three quarters of a mile westward 
of Lake Calhoun, we came upon another small, circu 
lar lake, equally clear and beautiful, to which the 
Indians long ago gave a name, signifying " The Lake 
of the Isle of Eed Cedars." We saw no cedars any 
where ; but it is a lovely sheet, and famous for the 
capture of a two horse wagon load of fish by a couple 
of sportsmen. Hereabouts we found the frame of a 
neat log cabin that is, the logs unchinked standing ; 
probably built by some claimant who intends to take 
possession as a resident. The country we passed 
through was chiefly what is called burr or scrub oak 
openings, sprinkled with stunted trees, and thickly 
covered with a growth of hazel, wild cherry bushes, 
etc., to the height of two or three feet. This was 
varied by patches of closer woodland in which the birch 
and maple, as well as the oak, were seen, while far 
to the right were groves of tamarac and large timber. 
Meadows of marsh grass of small or great extent, bril 
liant in their light green vesture, were bordered by 
ranges of upland. They had evidently once been 
lakes. The elevated ground rose rather abruptly from 
these bottom lands, and it was necessary to follow the 
ridge, which sometimes became so narrow as scarcely 
to afford room for the passage. The faintest trace of 
a road had now disappeared, and our course through 
the trackless wild was taken by the compass our 



WILD SCENERY. 121 

guide, moreover, who had brought out the other par 
ties, being familiar with it. At every step forward we 
laid prostrate the young oaks and luxuriant bushes, 
now climbing a pitch so steep it seemed almost per 
pendicular now descending one where the wagon ap 
peared fated to fall and crush our faithful horses ; or 
winding along the edge of a declivity, in a position so 
sideling it seemed impossible to sustain a foothold 
knowing nothing, withal, of what was to come, or 
through what perils we should issue safely. We pro 
ceeded for several miles at a very slow pace, and the 
beauty of the landscape called forth continual excla 
mations. " Stained strawberry leaves, and the more 
brilliant red of the sumach, the sombre yellow of the 
hazel, and the fading green of the Cornus tribes, 
mingling with the bright glossy hue of the oak, made a 
picture it is not strange painters have failed to imitate." 
Setting aside the roughnesses of the way, one might 
find it difficult to believe he had passed beyond the 
limits of civilization. Sometimes the ridge we followed 
passed between two crystal lakelets, or low meadows 
of vivid green, and the foliage around us was of every 
shade of verdure. It looked not at all like a primeval 
forest ; but we had learned to be familiar with the 
knowledge that we were treading ground to which the 
white man s claim had never reached as yet over 
which the Indian had held sway from a period beyond 
the memory of tradition. Now and then we came up 
on an old camping ground where was still visible the 
trace of their fires, and where the poles over which the 
Sioux lodges are built were still standing. These were 



122 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

always on smooth grassy plains for the time is past 
when the covert of woods was necessary to protect the 
savage from lurking enemies. Passing over a beauti 
ful rolling prairie, bordered with a distant line of forest, 
and sprinkled with tufts of trees like islets, it had such 
an appearance of cultivation that we looked involun 
tarily for the reapers of this magnificent field, and a 
white cottage to peep out behind the cluster of foliage. 
Again, a stately park of oaks, with its broad, shaded 
avenues, and lake set like a gem in the midst of em 
bowering foliage, seemed to belong of right to some 
proud mansion appropriate to so rich a domain. There 
was appearance of wild plums, crab-apples, grapes, and 
other indigenous fruits, with strawberries, blackberries, 
and cranberries in their season. 

Our guide pointed out, afar off, an oval-shaped 
mound, said to be three hundred feet high, and to 
command an extensive view of the country for miles 
around. Towards that hill our course was to be di 
rected, and in all turnings and windings, we never lost 
sight of it. Then we entered a dense wood of heavier 
timber than we had seen, an overarching wood, that 
shut out the sunshine, leaving only room enough for 
our narrow vehicle to pass; the meeting branches 
having to be parted as we went on, and occasionally 
giving us a smart tap or thrust, as if the genius of the 
place were determined to resent our invasion of his 
wild solitude. The intolerable heat made the woods 
a pleasant shelter, and we cared less for the steep hills 
we had to ascend and descend. Still on we went, 
skirting marshes and climbing ridges as before, our 



THE EECLUSE. 123 

courage in no way diminished, till three or four miles 
beyond a small lake, the welcome sight of a broad 
bright stream, rushing along with current "fiercely 
glad," made us aware that we approached the termina 
tion of our drive. We could see it afar, winding and 
flashing through the meadow, and the clustering 
bushes bent low to dip their branches in its clear, deep 
waters. "Little Falls Creek," said our guide, in an 
swer to our question, what was its name ; and we 
recognized the same lovely stream we had marvelled 
at on our way to Fort Snelling, and in its bewitching 
leap at the falls of Minnehaha. We forded this rapid 
outlet, ascended to the summit of a ridge dividing two 
lakelets, ploughed our way through a forest of under 
growth along the margin of a broad meadow, and came 
into full view of a haystack ! 

This was an unwelcome sight to a party anxious 
to escape from all sign or token of "the settlements; " 
but we were presently consoled on being informed it 
was "the hermit s hay." Poor recluse! we might, 
without detriment to the most fastidious romance, al 
low him the privilege of cutting and drying the wild 
grass to serve for a couch, perhaps, or the like ; for 
we had ascertained, to our entire satisfaction, that he 
kept no stock of any kind. We should, however, 
have preferred seeing a man dressed in skins, or even 
wrapped in an Indian blanket, answer the loud call of 
our driver, to the sight of one robed in common farm 
er s fashion when at work, with ruddy, cheerful coun 
tenance, in which good humor and content were so 
evident as to preclude the very shadow of melancholy. 



124 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

This was not the hermit who chanced to be absent 

from home but Mr. S , one of his friends, who 

occasionally assisted him in his clearing and other la 
bors. Our guide called to him then went in search 
of him ; he came up on the other side, meanwhile, and 
welcomed us with much courtesy, apologizing for the 
homeliness of the accommodation he had to offer, and 
intimating slightly a wish that we had delayed our 
visit till "things had been got a little nicer a house 
built, and so forth." We assured him the wildness of 
the scene was its principal charm in our eyes, and then 
turned to look for our Jehu, who had disappeared in 

the search after Mr. S . When he returned and 

took his seat, we proceeded by the roughest way we 
had yet gone over, and made several doublings and 
descents before we reached the lodge. 

This stood on a wide peninsula formed by a bend 
in the stream, which just below rushes down a con 
siderable fall, forming a beautiful rapid, and giving 
the value of a fine water-power to the loc-dity. On 
the other side of the creek to the left, rose a range of 
conical hills of moderate elevation ; on the right, the 
sloping uplands stretched away, inclosing a broad 
plain of meadow land. The ground every where was 
very thinly sprinkled with dwarfed oaks, with here 
and there a pine or cedar, to the distant border of close 
woods, but the undergrowth was thick where it had not 
been burnt over. The lodge was as unpoetical a shel 
ter as could well be imagined. It was built of rough 
boards, with pretty wide crevices between ; was low 
and small, and unprotected from the burning sun by 



THE LODGE IN THE WILDERNESS. 125 

the least shade ; a well beaten path on either side led 
through the bushes to the stream, and another, not so 
marked, to a spring at some distance. 

The door was hospitably thrown open, and we look 
ed within. About one third of the space was occupied 
by a mosquito bar stretched over a bed on the floor, if 
bed it might be called, which was only a shake-down 
of straw covered with a blanket. In the opposite 
corner stood a large cooking-stove, and a couple of 
shelves, the lower one of which served as a dresser, and 
held sundry pans, platters, and tin vessels. Heavier 
cooking utensils were ranged below, with a washing 
tub and two or three wooden pails. The only toilet 
conveniences were a tin wash basin, and a small cased 
looking-glass suspended from the upper shelf, with 
two or three coarse but clean towels hanging near it. 
A small and roughly constructed table stood on the 
side nearest the door, and beside it the jug, which 
usually contained spring water. The platters and 
cooking implements were clean, but the floor seemed 
guiltless of scouring, and notwithstanding the heat of 
the sun and want of shade trees, we found it more 
agreeable to stay without till the gentlemen had the 
boat ready. 

The basket was unpacked, meanwhile, and a hasty 
lunch taken, for we had several miles further to go, 
and it might be late before our return. Those who 
were bent on fishing made their preparations, and 
leaving our luggage in the wagon, and fastening the 
horses, we took the footpath to the landing-place, just 
on the bend of the stream. Some young frogs were 



126 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

taken for bait among the weeds on the margin, and pre 
sently the whole party was seated in the boat, pad 
dling up the deep, swift outlet. 

The water is from two to six feet or more deep, 
and would serve for steamboat navigation. A small 
steamer was talked of for another season, and a mill, 
for which Mr. Stevens was then hauling lumber. It 
was slow work paddling up the current with so many 
passengers, through the serpentine windings of the 
creek. Its banks were fringed with willows and bushes, 
with here and there a clump of trees so tastefully dis 
posed, that a landscape gardener would have been 
enchanted. The waters were so clear we could often 
see the sandy bottom, and numbers of fish sporting 
round us ; they had not yet learned to dread the angler ! 
The white and yellow lilies grew profusely near the 
banks, which were now marshy, now rising to an elevat 
ed ridge of Oakland. Then we entered the woods, and 
the uplands rose into hills of considerable elevation, 
covered densely with foliage ; a long peninsula was 
rounded, and about four miles from the shanty we 
found ourselves in a clear and beautiful lake, the first 
in the chain we were entering. This bright sheet, the 
eastern arm of Minnetonka, was nearly circular, and a 
mile across in any direction. As we shot over its un 
ruffled surface, we asked each other what name should 
be given to this first brilliant in the garland of gems ; 
and claiming the right, as the first white women who 
had ever looked on its beauty, to bestow a name, in 
compliment to the English portion of our party we 
called it Lake Browning after the great poetess. 



LAKE BKYANT. 127 

Some have objected to the giving of separate 
names to the different divisions of this extensive body 
of water, parted as they are merely by peninsulas, 
with channels devoid of current. But for the sake of 
convenience they will in time receive names, and it 
is well to save them from some inharmonious cognomen, 
connected perhaps with no agreeable associations. 
Portions of this lake, near the shores, are covered with 
wild rice, rushes, and water lilies, and the shrill, plain 
tive cry of the loon might be heard at short intervals. 

Passing through a narrow strait, we then entered 
the second lake, rounding a sharp point, and started 
with surprise at the picture which unexpectedly pre 
sented itself. A noble sheet of water, nearly three 
miles in width, and three and a half long, lay embraced 
by lofty bluffs, not rocky, but rising almost perpendic 
ularly from the pebbly shores, densely wooded nearly 
to the water s edge, and having their ridges and sum 
mits covered with tall, heavy timber. Some distance 
back of these extends a fine prairie. Two bold head 
lands, about midway up, stretched far out into the lake, 
and at our left the loveliest cove in the world, with a 
beach of white sand and pebbles, was pointed out as a 
splendid fishing ground. Two of the gentlemen land 
ed here with all necessary apparatus for making havoc 
among the finny tribes. But first, with due formality, 
and reverently standing, we gave to the lake the name 
I had chosen Lake Bryant and read aloud a few 
lines from the poet appropriate to the scene : 

" Still this great solitude is quick with life ; 
Myriads of insects, gaudy as the flowers 



128 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

They flutter over ; gentle quadrupeds, 

And birds that scarce have learned the fear of man, 

Are here ; and sliding reptiles of the ground, 

Startlingly beautiful. The graceful deer 

Bounds to the woods at my approach ; the bee, 

A more adventurous colonist than man, 

With whom he came across the eastern deep, 

Fills the savannas with his murmurings, 

And hides his sweets, as in the golden age, 

Within the hollow oak. I listen long 

To his domestic hum, and think I hear 

The sound of that advancing multitude 

Which soon shall fill these deserts." 

It was on this lake that a deer was speared in the 
water by the first party of visitors, while the creature 
was swimming across. Deer and other game abound, 
it is said, in these woods, and wild birds that build on 
inaccessible heights, have their nests in the boughs of 
these lofty cedars. We saw one noble eagle poised on 
the wing over 0ur heads, and looking down as if in 
wonder at our invasion of his home. A gentleman 
who was there in the spring, told me he had climbed 
a tree to rob an eagle s nest, but had been fiercely at 
tacked by the parent bird. On the beach, agates and 
cornelians may be picked up in abundance, and one of 
fine quality which I brought away will make, when 
cut, a beautiful memorial of the locality. 

An extremely narrow isthmus connects Lake Bry 
ant with the third lake. We landed and climbed, over 
ragged prominences and fallen cedars, the steep pro 
montory dividing their waters, and having gained a 
height of some sixty feet, gazed upon the scene before 
us with emotions of wonder and admiration. The 



CHAIN OF LAKES ANCIENT HUNTING GROUND. 131 

of miles, past the "headlands whose "blue outline formed 
the limit of our view. This fourth lake has also a 
branch lying northward, and is said to contain ten 
islands of considerable size. A narrow stream con 
nects it with a fifth and much smaller lake, and west 
ward of .this the others follow in succession. Col. Ste 
vens said the number in the chain was sixteen, as he 
had ascertained by actual exploration, and that the 
last lake approached within a very few miles of Min 
nesota Eiver. The whole range runs nearly east and 
west. Mr. S., who accompanied us, informed me that 
in the beginning of this month, he and a friend had 
found canoes in a cove beyond the farthest point in 
the third lake, and a well marked Indian trail leading 
westward. They followed the trail, starting at seven 
in the morning, and after a walk of a few hours ar 
rived at " Little Six," a Sioux village on the Minne 
sota. Dining there, they returned in the afternoon to 
the lake. The features of the country back of the 
timbered strip of land were oak openings and rolling 
prairies. On the shore of this third lake a location 
has been chosen, and claims set up for a hundred fami 
lies who are to remove thither next year. In some 
remote places we saw them designated by mere slips of 
board nailed against a tree. 

We felt no surprise to hear that this charming 
region had been so valued by the Dakotas as a hunt 
ing and fishing ground, that they were said to have 
kept the knowledge of it from the white population 
as long as possible, and petitioned the Governor for a 
reservation of territory which would have included 



130 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

for the trees were of great height and size. Col. Ste 
vens informed us he had hereabouts seen the white 
oak measuring sixty feet, from the ground to its 
branches. The timber was chiefly of oak and elm of 
different kinds ; the white oak, sugar maple, hickory, 
poplar, cotton wood, etc., with a few evergreens. 
Long and narrow peninsulas from either shore, rising 
into promontories of startling abruptness and height, 
projected miles into the lake, some not more than 
twenty feet wide, forming beautiful bays, in which, 
they say, fish are in marvellous abundance. Two 
small islands lay just before us, tufted with thick 
green foliage, and midway up the lake, a large and 
beautiful one, embracing, it is said, a thousand acres ; 
a place resorted to by the Indians for making su 
gar. The greatest width of this lake is estimated at 
over ten miles ; its length from Point Wakon to the 
point of connection with the fourth lake, rather less. 
It has a branch lake stretching northward, from the 
west extremity of which to Point Wakon it is several 
miles. This branch sheet, which is not reckoned in 
the chain, is said to have formed the division in for 
mer times between the assembled forces of the Sioux 
and Chippewas, when they came for the purpose of 
deadly strife, and encamped on either side. The 
fourth lake is the largest in the chain, and bears, by 
way of special distinction, the name Minnetonka, by 
which the whole range is called. It is said to have 
the finest scenery, and to be walled by rocky, precipi 
tous cliffs, towering to a considerable height ; but we 
could not have judged of this without sailing a number 



EXTENSIVE VIEW. 135 

to our courteous host, we returned to St. Anthony, 
following, as nearly as possible, the trail we had made 
in coming. On one of the elevations we crossed 
within four or five miles, was found the wild sage, 
mentioned as growing so extensively on the plains of 
Oregon and California. From the highest peak of 
this region, it is said, a view can be had of a large 
part of Minnetonka, of the Minnesota and Mississippi 
rivers, and the distant town of St. Anthony. 



136 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 



IX. 



THAT portion of Minnesota Territory which lies 
along the St. Croix Biver, though one of the earliest 
explored, and the best for farming purposes, has not 
become well known. The regions directly adjacent to 
the Mississippi have naturally received more attention, 
and the course of travel and emigration has been chief 
ly up the valleys of the Mississippi and Minnesota 
rivers. Various local publications, too, have set forth 
the advantages of these, while the eastern branches 
have been comparatively neglected, or left to the slower 
diffusion of knowledge gained by actual settlers. Yet 
there is no section presenting more attractions to both 
the farmer and the merchant than the valley of St. 
Croix. The Falls of St. Croix thirty miles above 
Still water, and sixty from the mouth of the Lake, is 
the furthest north of any navigable point from the Mis 
sissippi. 

A regular stage runs from St. Paul to Stillwater, 
the road passing over extensive tracts of upland prai 
rie, and through oak openings like fruit orchards. 
About fifteen small lakes are seen, and several rapid 
streams. The drought had prevented any boats of 



CAMPING OUT. 133 

space in the cabin, while others kindled brushwood 
outside, and covered the fire with leaves and turf 
making what is called in "Western parlance, a 
" smudge" the smoke of which was intended to keep 
off mosquitoes. The table was set in the open air, and 
in due time the party sat down to supper, the smoking 
fish, fried pork and bread and butter having a relish 
they never could have possessed under other circum 
stances. The serious business of clearing the table 
and washing the dishes was postponed till daylight, 
for the smudge was dying away for want of fuel ; we 
could not consent to have any of the sparsely scattered 
trees felled and the mosquitoes began to make des 
perate sallies. Then came repentance for our want of 
thought in not bringing tents. The shanty offered 
shelter for the women, but the five gentlemen were 
obliged to sleep wrapped in buffalo skins, with only 
the sky for a roof, and exposed to the merciless hordes 
of our insect foes, which having deserted the inhabited 
parts of Minnesota, seemed the more bent on reveng 
ing the intrusion into their wilderness domain. Hav 
ing secured the cabin door, and placed two carriage 
cushions for pillows, we crept under the netting and 
lay down on the floor pallet ; but no fatigue could 
bring me repose. The heat, and the fumes of cook 
ery ; the gambols of a number of field mice which had 
got in through the crevices, and were feasting on the 
remnants of our repast, with the fear that the little 
creatures might next pay us a visit, were sufficient to 
banish slumber; the horses, too, our faithful com 
panions from St. Anthony, were tied just outside; 



134 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

their noses rubbed against the boards, and they discus 
sed the hay furnished them, with very audible chew 
ing, to a period quite within " the short, small chimes 
of day," occasionally varying the performance by 
switching off mosquitoes with great vigor, lashing the 
partition to the imminent danger of cheeks close to it, 
or beating violently against it with their hoofs. Now 
and then, with a desperate leap, they would spring 
from the ground, and there remained no doubt on my 
mind that they had broken their fastenings, and were 
setting out on their homeward journey, leaving us to 
follow as we best might. So wore away the night, 
and as the day began to break, a movement of our 
friends without, and the gathering of fishing tackle, 
showed they were bent on some early sport. It seem 
ed but an instant after, when a curious fizzing roused 
me, and the bass they had caught might be seen in the 
pan, frying under the auspices of Miss C , who show 
ed an admirable knowledge of culinary mysteries on 
this occasion. In the mean time Mr. S. had arranged 
the breakfast table on the green, in perfect order, 
fetched a bucket of cool spring water, and was dili 
gently slicing up a loaf of bread. A walk to the creek 
disclosed the place for morning ablutions, where wil 
low boughs drooped lovingly over the clear deep wa 
ter, and presently we were seated around the simple 
board, the bright sun shining upon us, and illuminat 
ing a lovely landscape, not the less admired because 
the hand of man had never sought to embellish it. 
When the meal was over, the horses were put to the 
wagon, the luggage repacked, and having bade adieu 



LAKE ST. CROIX. 137 

large size going up the St. Croix for many weeks, and 
it was with surprise that we heard, on entering St. 
Paul one morning, that the " Black Hawk" on her re 
turn from Traverse des Sioux, had been chartered to 
take freight up that river, and was to^tart in a few 
moments. It was four in the afternoon when the 
steamer was ploughing her way down the Mississippi 
to Point Douglas, situated at the junction of the two 
rivers. Upon the tongue of land extending between 
is " Cottage Grove," a fertile spot, where farmers raise 
produce to send up to market. The thriving settlers 
in the neighborhood are from Maine. After leaving 
the Mississippi, we entered through, a narrow channel 
into Lake St. Croix. The difference between its clear, 
smooth waters, and the river surface vexed with cur 
rents, is instantly perceptible. Bluffs line the shore 
on the left hand ; on the other is a low wall of rocks, 
gradually rising and receding a little as you advance, 
till they too become towering heights. The graceful 
curve of the line of shore, the alternate swelling and 
sinking of the wooded hills, the deep ravines oc 
casionally opening between them the dark shadows 
thrown by the heights on the water, with the narrow 
line of light near the shore marking the departure of 
the sun, and now and then a projecting headland 
further out, a dark and shaggy mass were so beauti 
ful, that one could not regret the scenery of the Mis 
sissippi. The lake varies from half a mile to two or 
three miles in width, and along its banks at intervals 
are seen farm houses, and the log cabins of recent 
settlers. 



138 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

Willow Kiver, a small village within six miles of 
the head of the lake, was passed and the boat stopped 
for the night at Stillwater. This town, settled some 
eight or ten years, stands at the head of the lake, and 
is the great Aart for lumber of the St. Croix, com 
manding an extensive and rich farming country. It is 
picturesquely situated at the foot of a circular range of 
hills, at the lower end of which the heights become 
precipitous, and are capped with turret-like masses of 
rock fifteen or twenty feet in depth, extending around 
the whole summit of the bluff, and presenting the ap 
pearance of architectural ruins. The dwelling-houses 
are sprinkled along the sides of the declivity as well 
as on the plain, and some are built on very elevated 
ground. The Court-House stands on the brow of the 
hill. A fine spring on the hill side, the water collected 
in a large reservoir, fenced with a high stone wall, sup 
plies water to a large part of the town. I counted 
three public houses from one point of view: the Still- 
water House, the Minnesota House, and the Lake 
House, which stands close to the water. A very neat 
church is seen from the lake, and there are others. A 
new Penitentiary is building, which makes some stir 
among laboring men, and brings money into the place. 
It stands in a fine situation on the river, half a mile 
above the town, in what is called "Battle Hollow," a 
battle having been fought there some ten years since 
between the Sioux and Chippewas. 

There are two mills of two saws each, one driven 
by steam and one by water power ; one was nearly 
buried by the sand washed from the bluff, but will soon 



ST. CROIX RIVER PAINT ROCK. 139 

be again in operation. The prospects of the town are 
flourishing, and its advantages of location and the na 
tural resources of the country must soon make it a 
place of importance and wealth. 

St. Croix Kiver was so named after a Frenchman, 
who found a grave in its waters. Above Stillwater it 
flows between high bluffs, with occasionally an open 
ing by which easy access is had to the interior. The 
woods are dense, and extend back, consisting of oak, 
ash, elm, basswood, and great quantities of maple. 
The gleaming of sunrise on the rounded masses of 
foliage stretching out into the lake at its upper ex 
tremity, lofty bulwarks that stand as if to guard the 
pass, and on the high northward range, could not be 
rivalled by the artist s pencil. u Paint Rock" forms a 
picture that might be a study for a landscape painter. 
The cliffs rise perpendicularly from the water, to the 
height of thirty or forty feet, sometimes overhanging 
the river so as to form deep cavernous openings. The 
rock is formed of layers variously and richly colored. 
Above the solid rampart tower the hills, partially 
covered with tall trees, and wearing their shaggy crown. 
This is a locality held in veneration by the Sioux, and 
numerous pictures and hieroglyphics are said to be 
carved and painted on the perpendicular wall. Several 
Ojibwas were here killed by the Sioux some years since. 
On the Wisconsin side, as you ascend, the sheer wall 
rises to the height of sixty feet or more, lifting itself 
perpendicularly from the narrow line of shore. The 
gorgeously colored stone contrasts with the deep green 
of the woods at its base, and ragged evergreens on the 



140 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

summit stand in relief against the sky. Islands fringed 
with willows dot the river here and there, where the 
wild grass waves in the greatest luxuriance. 

Still ascending, you find the same lofty rampart, 
craggy at its base and summit, with a belt of dense 
foliage, except where the face of the cliff is entirely 
covered with broken masses of rock. The eye rests 
with pleased attention on a conical height on the Min 
nesota side, whose castellated summit presents the ap 
pearance of hoary ruins, the opposite side being a 
cavernous, savage looking range of rocks, rendered 
wilder in appearance by stunted trees growing in their 
rifts. The stream is now closely embraced between 
these barriers, now expands to greater width to inclose 
its wooded islands. No more exquisite landscape 
could be pictured by fancy than the one seen at this 
point in looking back. The headlands on either side 
approach near each other, the morning sunshine is golden 
on their woods ; the calm water lies like a sheet of 
silver between, and the background is a lofty forest- 
covered bluff. In the foreground is an island covered 
with tall trees, the only undergrowth being the tall 
grass, brilliantly green. A succession of such pictures, 
each as it seems, more lovely than the other, is offered 
as we continue to ascend varied only by the differ 
ent height and position of the hills, and the islands 
slumbering on the dark, smooth waters. 

A little further up the river the shores become less 
elevated, the hills receding and strips of bottom land 
stretch out, terminated at some distance back by 
the higher ridges. The timber is much larger and 



MARINE MILL. 141 

denser than on many of the bottoms of the Mississippi. 
It is not long, however, before the same bluffs appear. 
At short intervals clear springs gush up from their foot, 
and send out their tribute in sparkling rills that hasten to 
the river. It is said there are great numbers of speck 
led trout in these mountain streamlets. 

A house appears now and then, the germ of a set 
tlement, and it is curious to note how picturesque are 
these pioneer habitations, perched among the woods, 
and how readily the advance of improvement defaces 
the romance of the view. The settler spares not the 
leafy honors of the forest, for to him a potato patch has 
more charms than a grove. Occasionally the standing 
poles of Dakota lodges may be seen. " Marine Mill " 
on the eastern side of the river, is twelve miles above 
Still water, and occupies a site formed by nature for a 
town, in the mouth of a beautiful gorge. Some of the 
houses are extremely neat, and have cultivated gar 
dens ; they stand on a table-land, on the top of an in 
considerable elevation, and two or three miles back is 
to be found some of the best farming land in the terri 
tory. In the vicinity is a Swedish settlement, of an 
intelligent and industrious population. The Marine 
Mill Company is said to be wealthy and enterprising; 
they have partly finished a new mill, to supersede the 
the old one, which has been in use twelve or fifteen 
years. 

The country between Stillwater and Marine is de 
scribed as being broken, and of varied soil and aspect, 
exhibiting the usual alternations of rolling prairie and 
groves of oak, with some large timber. Cornelian 



142 SUMMEE RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

Lake, further down, is noted for the beautiful pebbles 
found on its shores, and we were told that a pretty 
waterfall is to be seen in the vicinity of the place. 

At this landing we had an accession of agreeable 
lady passengers, Mrs. Hall, the wife of our good 
captain, having been hitherto our sole companion. I 
have forborne to describe the terrible sandbars which, 
since the long continuance of high water, had partly 
filled up the channel. We struck on them a dozen 
times, each involving a delay of several hours. In 
such cases it was necessary to send out a boat with 
men and ropes, tie a rope round some stout tree, and 
haul the boat over ; or ; if that would not do, to lighten 
the freight by removing some of it into barges along 
side. The slow working over a formidable bar, when 
one s time is precious, is about as severe a test of pa 
tience as could well be devised. It is one of the promi 
nent features of western steamboat travelling, and 
frequently lengthens into days a journey performed in 
a few hours at high water. Now and then " all hands" 
had to leap ashore and cut down wood from the bot 
toms to feed the engine, while the boat thus labored 
along. 

Another fine subject for a landscape painter is 
afforded about twelve miles below the Falls. The 
bluffs on the Minnesota side rise to a commanding 
height, approaching nearer the river ; a circular island 
lies directly in the foreground, so densely covered with 
tall trees that the sunshine cannot enter, and fringed 
thickly with waving grass ; the course of the river is 
seen above, following the curve of the heights, and 



EOCK ISLAND WILD GORGE. 143 

their impervious drapery of woods presents every 
variety of shades in green, mingled with the darker 
hue of spirelike evergreens. A little below are the 
large "standing cedars," which form the boundary 
line between the Sioux and the Chippewa nations. The 
height of the bluffs and boldness of the whole shore, with 
the gently winding course of the stream, and its numer 
ous islands, afford picturesque points at every turn. 
There is a large lime-kiln further up, and the woods 
bordering the river are dense and dark. At the bend 
a little below the small settlement they call Osceola, 
there is a beautiful grove of the white pine, a variety 
in the rich masses of summer foliage. 

Kock Island rises abruptly from the bed of the 
river with its encircling belt of rock, and on either 
side the perpendicular cliffs of trap-rock rise to the 
height of fifty or sixty feet, brilliantly and variously 
colored as before their perfect reflection in the clear 
mirror of the stream giving a finer effect to the pic 
ture. 

Within a short distance of the termination of our 
voyage, a scene presented itself which nothing on the 
Upper Mississippi can parallel. The stream enters a 
wild, narrow gorge, so deep and dark, that the declin 
ing sun is quite shut out ; perpendicular walls of trap- 
rock, scarlet and chocolate-colored, and gray with the 
moss of centuries, rising from the water, are piled in 
savage grandeur on either side, to a height of from one 
hundred to two hundred feet above our heads, their 
craggy summits thinly covered with tall cedars and 
pines, which stand upright at intervals on their sides, 



144 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

adding to the wild and picturesque effect ; the river, 
hemmed in and overhung by the rocky masses, rushes 
impetuously downward, and roars in the caverns and 
rifts worn by the action of the chafed waters. These 
sheer and awful precipices, mirrored in the waters, 
are here broken into massive fragments, there stand in 
architectural regularity, like vast columns reared by 
art ; or some gigantic buttress uplifts itself in front of 
the cliffs, like a ruined tower of primeval days. One 
slender shaft, a solitary pillar, is seen ; the top formed 
like a chair, in which an eagle might build its nest. 
A high and hoary cliff in front, seeming to bar further 
progress, appears the end of the river. But a sharp 
turn to the left discloses the rapids; just before us 
stand two solid enormous masses of rock like the abut 
ments of a bridge and a notch between them is the 
landing-place, a long bridge of boards conducting from 
the bow of the boat to the land. 

We had but little time, after so many delays, to 
walk up stream a mile or so, for a view of the main 
rapids that give this place the name of the Falls of St. 
Croix. There is a succession of rapids, with swift 
water intervening, for six or seven miles, the entire 
fall estimated at about seventy -five feet, and the main 
rapids having a descent of twenty feet in as many 
rods. It is only here that a portage would be necessary 
with bateaux, though at points above, skill is required 
on the part of the boatmen. For nearly a mile up, 
the bank is composed of masses of rock from thirty to 
fifty feet high. A broad strip of table-land, with soil 
of black loam, extends to the foot of the higher bluffs. 



ST. CROIX FALLS VILLAGE. 145 

Descending the rocks to the bed of the river, the nar 
rowed stream can be seen rushing wildly over ledges 
of rock. Climbing to the level of the table-land, and 
walking to the point, a boulder on its verge commands 
a very fine view of the rapids higher up, and the 
winding river above. 

The village of St. Croix Falls is on the "Wisconsin 
side opposite the main rapids, and its beauty of situa 
tion and local advantages, should have made it by this 
time a populous town. The first claim was made here 
in the summer of 1839, soon after the ratification of 
the Chippewa treaty, by a company from Illinois, of 
whom were William S. Hungerford, the present pro 
prietor, and Franklin Steele, the principal owner of 
the mills at St. Anthony. They erected a large saw 
mill, boarding-house, shops for mechanics labor, etc, 
and commenced operations. Within a few years the 
property had passed into other hands, and by the 
several conveyances and the death of one of the 
owners, the title had been brought in dispute. The 
great advantages of the location attracting attention, 
other negotiations were then opened, a joint-stock 
company was formed, part of the purchase -money paid 
down, and a plan organized for the building of a city 
which might become the seat of government for a new 
Territory; for the northern boundary of Wisconsin, 
at that time unsettled, was expected to be further south. 
Men of wealth and political influence were interested 
in carrying out the design, and in the spring of 1847 
operations were commenced under the most promising 
auspices. Large store-houses, etc. were built, and a 
7 



146 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

spacious hotel was nearly completed. But the Mexi 
can war drew two chief members of the company 
from the embryo capital, and the conditions of the 
contract not having been fulfilled, Mr. Hungerford 
placed an injunction on the further proceedings of the 
company. Since that time a tangled lawsuit has pre 
vented their progress, the property being held some 
times by one party sometimes by the other, and pend 
ing these difficulties the buildings have fallen into de 
cay, and no further improvements have been made. 
The basement of the great hotel is a summer resort for 
cattle as a shelter from the sun. The saw-mill has been 
kept in operation during the summers, by a lease under 
whichever party "the Boston Company," or the 
"Injunction party" chanced, by decree of court, to 
have temporary possession; but the liability to be 
dispossessed, and the want of capital to manage inde 
pendently so heavy a business, or secure payment to the 
workmen by the employers, have had the usual conse 
quences, disastrous to enterprise, and accidents have ren 
dered thorough repairs necessary. When in good order 
the mill is capable of cutting from five to six million 
feet of lumber during the season of seven months and 
a half, and affords employment to more than fifty men. 
The common price of sawing is four dollars a thousand, 
and a workman s wages amount to nearly forty dollars 
a month, including board. Supposing the gross yearly 
income to be twenty thousand dollars, and the expense 
of labor in sawing nine thousand, the operator should 
realize a handsome nett profit out of the remaining 
eleven thousand, after paying the cost of repairs, etc. 



147 



Thirty or forty rods below the mill is a beautiful 
cascade, and at intervals between this and the steam 
boat landing are large springs, which would afford 
ample water-power for many kinds of machinery. At 
the landing near the foot of the rapids, the steamboat 
freight is deposited, and thence taken in bateaux to 
St. Croix Falls. The river is compressed into a nar 
row compass called the Dells, the water, when high, 
rushing through with great force. Just above this a 
dam might be built, affording a fall of eight or ten 
feet. " Taylor s Falls " is the county seat and central 
point for business of Chisago county, which was organ 
ized in January 1852. The first claim was made in 
1839 by Jesse Taylor, of Stillwater, after whom the 
place was named, and improvements were commenced 
under the auspices of a company, nearly at the same 
time as at St. Croix Falls ; but no great progress was 
made before Mr. Folsom s purchase of an interest in 
the property, in the fall of 1850. In the following 
spring the town was surveyed and laid off into village 
lots. It now contains two store-houses, two stores, 
two taverns, one law office, one blacksmith shop, one 
mill for grinding corn, and several dwellings. The old 
log store-house built by the first claimants is yet 
standing, having served in its turn for store-house, 
store, tavern, post-office, dwelling-house, carpenter s 
shop, school-house, ball-room and church, besides being 
supposed to be haunted by ghosts. 

From the summit of a high hill on the Wisconsin 
side, three small lakes may be seen. The country in 
the immediate neighborhood is broken and rocky, and 



148 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

not of inviting appearance. The river below the 
rapids is hid by the curve in the stream, and the inter 
vening wild bluffs. The table-land extends nearly a 
mile up stream, and is bounded by a bluff seventy or 
eighty feet high, back of which stretches a beautiful 
level tract to the foot of a more elevated trap rock 
ridge. 

Taylor s Falls, as already mentioned, is the most 
northerly point of continuous navigation on the Mis 
sissippi or any of its tributaries, and the natural de pot 
for lumber from the vast region of the pineries. At 
a common stage of water, the boats running above 
Galena can ascend to this place ; at other times freight 
is brought up in bateaux. In the latter part of the 
season of 1852, a small " seven by nine " boat, called 
" Queen of the Yellow Banks," plied between the Falls 
and Stillwater, and did a brisk business ; but a boat 
running only to Stillwater does not meet the public 
want, the freight being shipped at St. Louis, Galena, 
and intermediate points. Six miles above, at the head 
of the rapids, two or three farms have been opened. 
From this point, in going up the St. Croix, we find 
it little diminished below the mouth of Snake Eiver ; 
a steamboat of light draft could thus run fifty or sixty 
miles, and probably further during high water. The 
boats used at present are bateaux of about eighteen 
hundred weight, poled by two boatmen. The pros 
pects opening for the country render it inevitable that 
the farmers shall grow rich ; new settlers are wanted 
and invited, and notwithstanding the setting westward 
of the steady current of emigration, they must soon 
begin to fill the country. 



EXECUTION OF AN INDIAN. 149 

A band of Chippewas formerly had their head 
quarters at the Falls. They have now disappeared, 
the few who remain being very indolent, and living 
by hunting, begging and stealing. Their favorite 
haunt is the grog shop, and in past years several traders 
have been killed by them. In the spring of 1848 two 
white men were found murdered about six miles east 
of the Falls. An Indian was arrested, tried, and found 
guilty of the murder, and immediately hung. Before 
ascending the scaffold, which consisted of two barrels, 
one standing on another, under the limb of a large 
oak tree from which the rope was suspended, he called 
for a pipe, and sat down and smoked with the stoical 
indifference characteristic of his race. A white man sus 
pected of having incited the Indian to the deed, was 
tied to the tree, severely whipped, and told that his 
life would no longer be secure if he did not leave 
the country within twenty-four hours. Such proceed 
ings were considered necessary in the exposed situa 
tion of these frontier settlements surrounded by 
savages, and separated by a wide tract of wilderness 
from civilized communities. 

We had cherished the hope of being able, even 
with our small party, to cross from the Falls of St. 
Croix to La Pointe, and terminate our summer excur 
sion by descending Lake Superior. A professed voya- 
geur came on board the "Black Hawk" to offer the 
information requisite. The route usually taken by 
traders, half-breeds, and individuals who attend the 
court at La Pointe, and by the carrier of the mail 
once a fortnight, is up the St. Croix Eiver by a bark 



150 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

canoe some eighty miles to the small lake which forms 
its head-waters ; thence there is a short portage to the 
Bois Brule" River, which empties into Lake Superior 
fifty miles above La Pointe ; this is descended, and 
the voyagers coast the rest of the way. The trip takes 
seven, eight, or ten days the coasting along Lake Su 
perior being difficult work when it is rough. The 
voyageurs are paid for their time going and returning. 
The canoes are poled, and the current being strong, 
they cannot make more than twenty-five or thirty 
miles a day up stream. Another route sometimes ta 
ken is up the St. Croix to Kettle River, one of its 
branches, and up that as far as practicable ; and thence 
by a long portage to St. Louis River and Fond du Lac. 
But neither of these routes afford sufficient in the way 
of scenery to compensate for the fatigue and expense, 
unless the mere love of wild adventure be strong 
enough to form an inducement. 

The region between St. Croix River and Millelacs 
has been called a " Golgotha," on account of the bloody 
strife between the Dakotas and Ojibwas or Chippewas. 
After a great battle in 1841, the Indians of Pokeguma 
went to live with their countrymen near Lake Supe 
rior. Lake Pokeguma, four or five miles long, and 
two wide, is strewn with boulders, and tall, hoary 
pines grow to the water s edge. It is on Snake River, 
twenty miles above the Falls of St. Croix. 

On our return, we made a call for an hour or so at 
the house of Mr. Ansell Smith, about three miles below 
the Falls. To this intelligent gentleman I am indebt 
ed for the local information I have recorded. Coming 



MINNESOTA WINTERS WILD RICE. 151 

two years before, he had found a deep forest on his 
present location ; now his nearly finished framed house 
overlooks a large vegetable garden on the river bank ; 
money is brought into circulation by the constant em 
ployment and high wages of laborers, and he sees the 
barges, bearing stores, pass his house nearly every day. 
By another year a good road for travelling will proba 
bly be opened to Stillwater. At this time, the mail 
was carried on horseback once a week. In winter 
there is continual passing to and fro on the ice. It is 
a mistake, he said, to suppose the winters in Minnesota 
the dullest seasons ; they are much the liveliest, every 
man being then more at leisure, and the closing, by 
freezing, of the lakes and rivers making the air so dry 
that an intense degree of cold may be borne without 
inconvenience. Labor in the open air was not sus 
pended in the winter of 1851-2, even though at one 
time the degree of cold was so great that the mercury 
became solid ; while in a moister region, or where the 
wind sweeps across the prairies, work cannot be per 
formed when the thermometer stands 40 higher. 

Mrs. Smith a very charming woman, kindly pre 
sented me with some pretty agate pebbles from a 
stream near, and a sack made by the Chippewas, of 
braided strips of bark, in a shape rudely resembling a 
pappoose, filled with the wild rice which is one of the 
staples of the territory. This grain grows in great 
abundance about the head-waters of the St. Croix and 
its tributaries, on the northern branches of the Missis 
sippi, and in all the lakes in the northern part of Min 
nesota. Where the water is shallow and of nearly 



152 SUMMER EAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

uniform depth, it often forms an unbroken field of 
thousands of acres. "When growing, it somewhat re 
sembles Indian corn, though the stalk is more slen 
der, attaining the average height of ten or twelve feet. 
" It forms with fish and maple sugar the principal sub 
sistence of the Chippewas." They sell large quantities 
to the whites, some preferring it to the common rice of 
the south, and considering the unfitness of the soil on 
which it grows for any other crop, it may become a 
profitable article of commerce. The mode of collect 
ing it is as follows : 

" In the first place, to protect it from blackbirds, 
they collect the grain in bunches while it is in the 
milk, and cover each bunch with a band made of 
the bark of the linden or basswood tree. When the 
grain is sufficiently matured, the band is cut and re 
moved, and one person, with a long pole, bends down 
the heads over the canoe in which he is seated, while 
another, with a pole, threshes off the grain. In this 
way some families gather fifty bushels. The time of 
gathering commences about the first of August and 
lasts six weeks. They dry it by placing it on mats on 
a scaffold over a fire. When sufficiently dry, a hole 
is dug in the ground, and about a bushel of rice is put 
in it and covered with a deer skin. A man steadying 
himself by a stake driven into the ground, jumps about 
on the grain until the hulls are removed. The women 
then winnow it out with a fan made of birch bark." * 

A little below Mr. Smith s the steamboat grounded 

* Seymour. 



BATEAU VOYAGE. 153 

on the same sand-bar which had detained us twenty- 
four hours in ascending the river, and after some dis 
cussion the party from the Marine determined on pro 
ceeding in a small bateau. They invited me to join 
them, one of the ladies kindly proffering hospitality 
for the night, or as long a time as the steamer might 
stay on the bar and promising to show me the curi 
osities of scenery in the neighborhood. A pleasant 
company was presently gathered in the little craft 
which, paddled by one of the gentlemen at either end, 
shot rapidly down the river. It was a mode of transit 
peculiarly Western, and had to me the charm of nov 
elty and romance. We glided among the islands, fol 
lowing a less devious course than the larger boats, and 
stopped awhile at the rocky base of a bluff, to drink of 
a spring pouring out its crystal treasures, and examine 
the poles of a Chippewa wigwam, which appeared not 
to have been long deserted. Had time permitted, a 
walk the whole distance would have been delightful. 
But as we caught a distant view of the Marine, the 
" Black Hawk" could be seen just above us ; on she 
came, her great engine puffing like a monster out of 
breath; in vain our paddles were plied to win the 
race ; she strode over the waters, swept the sand-bar 
that impeded her progress, and only checked her 
course for an instant to avoid running down our daring 
little bark, that crossed directly under her bows. We 
followed in her wake, and notwithstanding the attrac 
tions of the social circle at the Marine, I was glad to 
have the prospect of reaching St. Paul early the next 

morning. 

7* 



154 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

The occurrence of a steamboat landing at Willow 
Eiver, seemed to stir the whole town ; a hundred of 
the residents sprang on board the moment we touched 
the landing, and many ascended to the ladies cabin 
and even peered into the state-rooms. This seemed a 
singular exhibition of curiosity, many of the boats 
from Galena making regular trips to Stillwater on 
their way to St. Paul. 

Mr. Ansell Smith has favored me with a descrip 
tion of the valley and tributaries of the St. Croix, and 
as this interesting region is almost unknown, although 
destined to become an important part of our country, 
I give it at some length. Immediately west of the 
bluff overlooking Taylor s Falls, extends a forest con 
sisting of the usual varieties of timber growing else 
where in the same latitude ; chiefly the sugar maple, 
linn, oak, elm, ash, birch, poplar, and butternut, with 
an almost impenetrable undergrowth, mostly of prickly 
ash and small blue beech. The common beech and 
hemlock, so prevalent in some of the Eastern States, 
are here never seen. The woods increase in density 
as you proceed westward, leaving the river. The 
ground, though undulating, is sufficiently level for 
agricultural purposes; the soil a rich, black, sandy 
loam. This forest tract is said to include an area of 
not less than two hundred square miles, running par 
allel with the river for about twenty miles, and ex 
tending ten or twelve miles back. 

This body of timber forms the eastern border of 
the waters of the Sunrise, running in a north direction 
and emptying into the St. Croix some seventy miles 



SUNKISE RIVEE. 155 

from its junction with the Mississippi. This is the 
first western tributary of the St. Croix worthy of no 
tice ; the absence of western branches below its mouth 
being caused by the superior elevation of the land in 
the immediate vicinity of the St. Croix. The valley 
of the Sunrise is now attracting considerable attention, 
and is represented by those who have visited it as one 
of the most beautiful and fertile in the Northwest. 
Mr. William Holmes, who can claim the honor of be 
ing the earliest pioneer, is building on the bank of the 
Sunrise, about ten miles from its mouth. From that 
point the stream varies from fifty to seventy-five feet 
in width, and is inclosed between banks some twenty 
feet high, sloping gradually on either side to the wa 
ter s edge. It is rapid enough to afford abundance of 
water-power for manufacturing purposes. On its west 
side extends for many miles a beautiful prairie, sprink 
led with small groves. Ascending this river, we find 
it deeper and slower, its serpentine course being in the 
midst of a valley fifty or sixty rods wide, and covered 
with luxuriant wild grass, through which, at inter 
vals, run clear rills from the springs gushing out along 
the ridges. 

Near me mouth of the Sunrise there is a stopping 
place for teams passing to the pineries with supplies 
for the lumbermen, and a few settlers are opening 
farms in the neighborhood. Its local advantages will 
render this a central point for a considerable portion 
of the surrounding country. The road from Point 
Douglas to Lake Superior laid out by Government, 
which thus far runs near the St. Croix, is here separat 
ed from it bv a bend in the river. 



156 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

The next tributary a stream called Goose Creek 
has low banks, which are liable to be overflowed, 
and wanders through fine meadow lands promising as 
rich a reward for the labor of the husbandman, espe 
cially in stock-raising and dairy products, as any por 
tion of Minnesota, or indeed of the United States. 
Hitherto the supplies carried into the woods, of beef, 
pork, corn, flour, butter, etc., have been purchased at 
Galena and other points below on the Mississippi the 
expenses of transportation five or six hundred miles 
by water, and by land carriage to the place of destina 
tion, with the profit of the speculator, being added to 
the original cost of each article. The heavy tax to 
which the consumer is thus subjected may open a fair 
prospect to the home producer, especially in view of 
the fact that the home competition for years to come 
cannot effect any material reduction in prices. 

Ten or twelve miles further up, passing over a bar 
ren tract covered with scanty vegetation, we come to 
Eush Creek, a small clear stream running through a 
body of hardwood timber. Half a day s travel further 
will bring us to Snake Eiver. This and Kettle Eiver, 
some miles northward, are the two largest,, and most 
important western tributaries of the St. Croix each 
being, at its junction, nearly as large as the parent 
stream. Snake Eiver drains a large extent of country, 
some of its branches extending far to the southwest, 
and interlocking with the northern branches of Eum 
Eiver, southward of Millelacs or Spirit Lake, while 
others collect the stray rivulets as far north as the 
county of Itasca. This tract is chiefly covered with 



GREELEY S FAKM KETTLE RIVER. 157 

pine, mingled with hardwood, like the other best pine 
ries of this region. The amount of pine lumber annu 
ally cut on Snake Eiver and its branches, probably 
exceeds fifteen million feet. The lumbermen now 
confine their operations within a short distance of the 
banks of the streams, to save the expense of extra 
hauling ; but the pine growing further back is gene 
rally considered of better quality. 

The United States road, as surveyed, crosses Snake 
Eiver near Pokeguma Lake. Here was formerly a 
mission established for the conversion and education 
of the Indians, which has lately been abandoned. 
" The mission farm" was also cultivated at this place, 
and with " Greeley s Farm," which affords a stopping 
place for teamsters, is the only sign of improvement 
hereabouts ; in fact, there is yet no permanent settle 
ment north of Sunrise. Kettle River, of which less 
is known rises in Wisconsin, thence taking a south 
erly course with sufficient bearing westward to carry 
it through a portion of Minnesota, and joining the St. 
Croix a little below the point where the latter stream 
begins to form the boundary line between Wisconsin 
and Minnesota. A large part of Kettle Eiver lying 
north of the Chippewa treaty line, the labors of lumber 
men have extended but a few miles from its mouth. 

Above the point where it becomes the boundary, 
the St. Croix being so reduced as to be fordable Wis 
consin steps across and takes a line due north for the 
falls on St. Louis Eiver. The Badger State says Mr. 
Smith is a very good neighbor, but when we reflect 
that she has been so grasping as to cut us off entirely 



158 SUMMEE EAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

from the southern shore of Lake Superior, and com 
pel us to go round the falls to reach the navigable 
waters of St. Louis River, we feel that she might have 
treated her infant sister with a little more indulgence. 
Commercially and socially, the northern part of Wis 
consin, including that bordering on Lake Superior, and 
the whole St. Croix valley, is connected with Minnesota. 
Ascending the St. Croix in a northeasterly direc 
tion, and passing several unimportant tributaries, we 
find it a small clear stream, the outlet of a beautiful 
sheet of water called St Croix Lake by way of dis 
tinction from the lower Lake St. Croix. A short 
portage from this point, as before mentioned, carries 
us to the Bois Brule, so called from the pine woods 
burnt on its banks. One unacquainted with the na 
vigation of these brooks, would marvel at the patience 
and perseverance of the voyageurs. Sometimes walk 
ing in the stream, they drag their birchen vessels, or 
increase the depth of water by a temporary dam, and 
when there is no water, carry the light canoes and the 
lading on their backs, till they find a place where the 
craft can be launched. Schoolcraft says of the Brule : 
" Any other person but one who had become familiar 
with northwest portages, would be apt to say, on being 
ushered to this secluded spot, * Well, this is certainly 
an eligible place to quench one s thirst at, but as for 
embarking on this rill, with a canoe and baggage, the 
thing seems to be preposterous. And so it certainly 
appeared on our arrival. There was not an average 
depth of water of more than two to four inches ; but 
by going some distance below, and damming the 



EASTERN TRIBUTARIES. 159 

stream, it rose, in a short time, high enough to float a 
canoe, with a part of its lading. The men, walking 
in the stream, then led the canoes, cutting away the 
brush to veer them, and carrying such parts of the 
ladjjfg as could not, from time to time, be embarked." 
Turning southward, we come to the Nemakagon, 
the first eastern tributary of St. Croix worth attention. 
The yellow or Norway pine here grows in considerable 
quantities, and traces of lumbermen are visible. The 
white pine grows further south and west. The other 
eastern tributaries deserving mention are Yellow, Clam, 
Wood, Trade, and Apple Eivers the last joining the 
St. Croix a few miles above Stillwater. Pine abounds 
on all these streams, which take their rise in the same 
extensive pinery, probably, that covers the head wa 
ters of Willow and Chippewa Eivers ; though for some 
distance before entering the main river they flow 
through a sterile tract, supposed to have been once 
covered with pine forest, afterwards consumed by fire. 
A few isolated trees remain, degraded, from the 
lofty honors of their ancestry, and the desolate plains 
are covered for miles with blue or whortle berries, af 
fording a rich feast to the weary traveller. Near the 
Falls and on the east side is a large body of hardwood 
timber, the soil being generally of the best quality for 
cultivation. Six miles below the Falls we strike a rich 
and fertile prairie, or more properly a succession of 
prairies, separated by groves, and extending far south 
ward. This prairie is occupied by enterprising farmers, 
and the luxuriant crops are a sufficient guarantee for 
the fertility of the soil ; the high prices obtained for 



160 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

produce indicating the wisdom of the settler in choos 
ing this location. Wheat of the first quality has been 
raised, though there are no flouring mills nearer than 
Bowies , on Lake St. Croix, nearly forty miles distant. 
The St. Croix Valley, like other portions of Miffhe- 
sota, is remarkable for its numerous lakes. Ch%ago 
Lake, from which the county takes its name, one of the 
most beautiful in the territory is about ten miles west 
of Taylor s Falls by the road ; it is triangular in form, 
divided by a peninsula into two parts, each forming a 
lake, connected by a strait, and with its various inden 
tations, presents not less than fifty miles of coast. 
" Norberg s Peninsula" so called from the first claim 
ant on it, who came in the spring of 1851, is nearly 
a mile in length, but narrow, including only about one 
hundred acres, and covered with a dense growth of 
sugar-maple and other timber. Its banks are twenty- 
five or thirty feet high, but not precipitous. Opposite 
Norberg s, and near the main peninsula dividing the 
two lakes, is Yan Rensselaer s Island. A visit to this 
spot in the spring of 1851, when it formed the dividing 
line between savage and civilized life, was interesting. 
Several Swedish families had commenced opening their 
farms in the neighborhood, and the sound of the axe, 
the occasional falling of a tree, the smoke curling 
above the forest, the flight of wild fowl across the lake, 
and the shrill scream of the loon, proved the first inva 
sion of the primeval solitude. Mr. Yan Rensselaer 
soon after took possession of the island, which contain 
ed seven or eight acres, built a neat log house, and 
brought into it a well selected library. He has since 



SWAMPS PINE LUMBER. 161 

cleared and cultivated part of the land, and with his 
favorite Shakspeare and other books, leads an in 
dependent and happy bachelor s life, though he is the 
only American living- in the vicinity of the lake. 

Another distinctive feature of the St. Croix region, 
common to the whole territory is its marshes and 
swamps. These may be classed as hay-meadows, 
tamarac swamps, and cranberry marshes : each having 
its particular value. The early settler finds the na 
tural hay-meadow very convenient ; the tamarack 
swamps, affording material for fencing and timber for 
building, are equally important ; and from the cran 
berry marsh the farmer not only gathers a supply of 
fruit for his own family use, but finds a crop of which 
he can always dispose at good prices. These berries 
will no doubt become a leading article of exportation 
from Minnesota. They are gathered with rakes so 
constructed as to let the vines pass between the teeth 
while retaining the fruit, and a single person may 
sometimes gather two or three barrels in a day. The 
average price is five dollars a barrel. 

Another kind of marsh is usually covered with 
moss, and a hard wiry kind of grass, and woe to the 
traveller whose way lies across it, for the deceitful 
ooze covers water some feet deep, and the quivering 
foundation gives warning of a liquid region still below. 
Many of these marshes are susceptible of drainage. 

The chief exported article from the region de 
scribed must for a long time be pine lumber. Thirty - 
five teams have been engaged in logging during the 
winter of 1852-3 on the St. Croix and its tributaries. 






162 SUMMER KAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

Each team usually consists of four yoke of oxen, for 
which ten laborers make up the complement of hands. 
It was estimated that 105,000 logs, making thirty-five 
million feet of lumber, would be cut the last season ; 
three thousand logs or a million feet, being a fair 
winter s work for one team. Of this amount about 
fifteen million feet are sawed at the different mills on 
St. Croix Kiver and Lake, before being sent to market, 
twenty million being rafted and sent below in logs. 
The chief market is St. Louis, though many logs are 
sold at Kock Island and different points on the Missis 
sippi. 

The proceeds of the St. Croix lumber trade for the 
season of 1852-3 have been estimated as follows : 

15 : 00(XOOO feet of sawed lumber at $12 per m. $180,000 
20,000,000 feet of logs at $ 9 per m. $180,000 

10,000,000 lath at $2.50 per m. $ 25,000 



Making a gross income of $385,000 

Nor is there any business the proceeds of which 
are more generally distributed, for these find their way 
through different avenues to persons engaged in 
almost every variety of occupation. To the farmer is af 
forded a home market for his produce ; and employment 
to the laborer at the season when his time is generally 
worth least ; while the labors of the blacksmith, shoe 
maker and tailor, are also brought into requisition ; 
the competition being not so much in cheapness as in 
quality. 



"THE BOOK-WOMAN." 168 



X. 



PASSING an hour or two beside the Falls on the side 
of the river opposite the town of St. Anthony, and at 
the hospitable residence of Col. Stevens, we had a 
walk and conversation with an intelligent lady who 
had spent three years in teaching in the vicinity, and 
had witnessed the growth of the largest towns in the 
Territory. The Indians, with whom the region was 
then populous, gave her a name signifying " the book- 
woman " from the number of books she distributed 
among the ignorant and destitute. She related 
amusing anecdotes of one " brave " who aspired to the 
honor of her hand. He would spend hours in sere 
nading her with his flute, according to the Indian 
fashion of making love, and would come to her school, 
in which there were several half-breeds, and prevail 
on these to interpret his wooing. His promises to 
" build her wigwam and hunt the deer, and make her 
moccasins," did not incline her heart towards him, yet 
she wished to treat him kindly, and in return for a 
pewter ring with which he presented her, gave him a 
bunch of shining brass ones. Her surprise was great 
when, a few days after, he came to fetch home his 



164 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

bride, the exchange of rings being the Indian form of 
betrothal. On her refusing to go with him, he de 
parted, and the next day sent several stout warriors to 
bring her expressing great disappointment and cha 
grin when it was explained to him that he had no 
right to consider himself her lord and master. His 
next appearance was in front of her school-house at the 
head of an armed troop of savages ; but on her appeal 
ing to him with gestures of entreaty, not to terrify the 
children, he went away without molesting any one. 

It was with much regret we bade farewell, for the 
present, to Minnesota. Pleasant will be our memories 
of that pleasant region. While waiting at the Kice 
House for the signal of departure, a note was brought 
in, proffering information concering the route from La 
Pointe to the Falls of St. Croix ; a gentleman who had 
just accomplished a canoe voyage to Stillwater, having 
heard of us and our inquiries while descending the St. 
Croix. The incident showed the general interest taken 
in strangers on a tour of observation. 

The waters had been so long falling that it was 
necessary to go down the river some three miles in a 
flat boat, into which animate and inanimate freight 
was tumbled promiscuously, shelterless in the blaze of 
sunshine, beneath the gaze of an unwonted crowd 
assembled on the heights above the landing. It was, 
perhaps, the first demonstration toward a riot since 
the settlement of the place. The bless, d Maine Liquor 
Law being in operation, the authorities were about to 
seize and destroy a quantity of the contraband article 
still kept in a store on the edge of the bluff. The 



GALENA MRS. HARRIS. 165 

people had rushed together to rescue the liquor, and 
manifested so stern a determination to prevent the 
sacrifice, that it was rumored the city authorities would 
prudently forbear to provoke an altercation in which 
they were sure to come off second best. All was quiet 
in the assemblage as we slowly dropped down the 
river in our primitive barge. The bottom-lands we 
passed were lined with Indians, whose blue and scarlet 
blankets and head-dresses looked picturesque enough, 
half hidden by the trees. In the space of an hour and 
a half we were on board " The Nominee," and plough 
ing our way rapidly downward. The Nominee is one 
of the line owned by B. Campbell & Co., and is the 
finest boat on the Upper Mississippi ; it has withal, an 
extensive reputation associated with the popularity of 
the excellent Capt. Orrin Smith, who has long been 
its commander. 

Dr. J and his charming wife received us with 

a cordial welcome, and would allow us to stay nowhere 
but at their vinewreathed cottage, in one of the retired 
streets of Galena. This place certainly merits a cele 
brity for the warmheartedness and social qualities of 
its inhabitants. Among the visitors who called upon 
us, it will not be impertinent to mention the name of 
Mrs. Harris, formerly Miss Coates, a lady whose lectures 
to women on Physiology have been celebrated in past 
years, and who is now residing here. Her graceful 
person and manners, and her low, musical voice could 
not fail from the first moment to charm us, and would 
have gone far to disarm prejudice against female 
teachers of branches of learning long appropriated to 



166 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

masculine investigation. The conversation turning upon 
" Woman s Eights Conventions," we ventured frankly 
to express our rooted aversion conservatives as we 
were even to the name of any such thing. But when 
asked if we could not see that many reforms were 
necessary to place women on an equal footing with 
men in facilities for earning a subsistence, if we could 
not think of many occupations suited to woman s 
ability and retiring modesty, from which she is now 
excluded and forced to more galling and ill-paid labors ; 
if superior advantages of education should not be 
afforded to woman in all classes, and if no necessity 
existed for her protection from the cruel and crushing 
wrongs inflicted by domestic tyranny then we were 
compelled to admit that she has not her " rights" as a 
human being. The lady had evidently the better of 
us, but she was meek in her triumph, and only coun 
selled us hereafter to be more candid than to condemn 
"conventions" laboring to reform the evils of the exist 
ing state of society, notwithstanding that there might be 
much to censure in their proceedings and their ultra 
notions on the subject. 

We were much gratified in attending service at the 
Second Presbyterian Church in this city on Sunday, 

and hearing an excellent sermon from Eev. Mr . W , 

in which sound doctrine was explained in connection 
with the noble Christian precepts by which the heart 
and life are to be regulated. I have frequently had 
occasion to observe how much more of the great truths 
of the Christian system is unfolded in the sermons of 
Southern and Western divines than in the intellectual 



LOW WATEK LEAD MINES. 167 

essays which are too often substituted, in our eastern 
cities, for the preaching of the living word. This is 
not the place, however, to speak on this subject as I 
could wish. 

One not experienced can scarcely form an idea of the 
difference made in the aspect and movement of things in 
general in towns upon or near the Mississippi, by the 
state of the waters. The convenience and enjoyment of 
almost every individual is affected by it. We felt the 
depression from Minnesota to Illinois, on the right hand 
and on the left. Passing up Fevre River with a wake of 
mud, we saw the stream shrunken into pitiable limits 
its waste of bank on either side, wetted by the rush of 
water forced up by the passage of boats, a broad line 
of black mud. Still the parched earth drank no 
nourishment from the heated air, and the summer sun 
exacted his tribute from the streamlets, and the foliage 
began to look sere and withered, and people to talk 
ominously of the long drought, and the heavy rate of 
freights. There, at Galena, lay the West Newton, and 
other first class boats, laid up till the next rise, while 
smaller boats labored in and out, each bringing intel 
ligence of still greater difficulty of progress. 

We improved inevitable delay by a visit to an 
agreeable family residing five miles distant among the 
diggings. The shaft we descended was about seventy 
feet deep, and one by one we were let down in a tub 
by the windlass. At the bottom were horizontal drifts, 
the roof and sides of which were studded with the 
shining metal. Each mine has two openings for 
ventilation, and work is best done in the winter, when 



168 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

miners do not suffer from the " damps." A few years 
since a human bone was found thirty feet below the 
surface, its interior filled with beautiful spar. 

After several contingent adieus, the boat which 
expectant passengers had crowded in haste on Monday 
morning, at five the next afternoon left the wharf, 
toiling along at a rate not so rapid as a brisk walk. 
There was a sensible moderation in the heat ; our lit 
tle party was a very agreeable one, and in time the 
full moon saw us on our way down the Mississippi. 
The numerous sand-bars make the channel tortuous ; 
but the boat was of light draught, and daylight found 
us a little below Hampton, at the head of the Upper 
Eapids. Here our good fortune forsook us ; we were 
fast on rocks from which no labor or effort could set 
free the struggling vessel. The hours of the day wore 
by in one unsuccessful attempt after another, and an 
other morning discovered us in precisely the same po 
sition. The passengers in the ladies cabin read what 
few books they had brought with them, gossiped idly 
on matters and things in general, or napped away the 
time ; those who had babies nursed them, and the di 
version of three meals a day an excellent table being 
set, according to custom on the western boats was 
hailed as an appropriate and welcome pastime. The 
breeze came pleasantly, meanwhile, as a friendly visit 
or to tell of sweet nooks on the land, of wooded islets, 
and flower-covered prairies in the distance, and lakes 
perchance, and dancing rivulets fresh from the cool 
embrace of sunless woods. A steamboat appeared in 
the distance laboring along the narrow, winding 



MONTROSE. 169 

channel upward, and hopes were entertained that the 
swell of the waters as she passed would lift us from 
our involuntary perch. On she came, laden with pas 
sengers assembled on the decks to gaze at our forlorn 
plight; proudly she swept by, almost brushing the 
side of our craft, and when just ahead, turned, while 
her course was suddenly checked. She was certainly 
intending to tow us back ! But, no ! after a few mo 
ments her bow was again turned up stream ; and she 
left behind her a wake of foam the subsiding swell 
leaving us tugging at our anchor as hopelessly as 
before. 

Three more steamboats passed up in the time we 
lay on the rocks; one, our well beloved Nominee, 
sent down the river for repairs previous to resuming 
her regular trips to St. Paul. In the afternoon of the 
second day, more strenuous efforts were made for our 
liberation ; the freight had been removed to a barge 
the passengers were directed to come forward, and, 
with mighty struggles, the huge vessel was at last 
shoved off by degrees, till we were once more plowing 
the waters, with cheered hearts, looking forward to 
the prospect that should open on our arrival at Mon- 
trose. During the lowness of the river, the steamers 
from Galena are obliged to terminate their trips at 
that point, passengers proceeding thence by stage 
twelve miles, to Keokuk, where they meet the larger 
packets. It was eight in the evening before we arriv 
ed at Montrose, and for seventy or eighty passengers 
there was only one stage, a barouche or two, and a 
small bateau. While apprehension prevailed as to 
8 



170 SUMMER EAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

our further progress, it was announced that a flat-boat 
would soon be in readiness ; it was large and cum 
brous, but could not be made to draw more than six 
inches of water, loaded as it was with trunks and 
boxes, and forty or fifty passengers. An awning ex 
tended in gondola fashion over part of the boat, and 
in the stern a weather-tight room was boarded up, 
which contained a cooking stove and one or two mat 
tresses, on which sundry babies reposed after the fa 
tigues of the day. It was a wild moonlight excursion, 
this floating down with the current, now and then 
striking the rocks of the rapids, or passing a shoot 
rapidly, or twisting and strivjng among the breakers. 
As we neared Keokuk, several runners on the banks 
set forth the merits of the rival boats the St. Paul 
and the Kate Kearney in voluble recommendations. 
" Not a bug to be seen will give the passage if you 
find one" was music in our ears, after the doleful ex 
periences of the last three nights, when, driven from 
the staterooms by the "native population" we had 
been constrained to take on the cabin floor such rest 
as could be obtained amid the voluble chattering of 
Irishwomen, who seemed to think they could not 
have their money s worth unless they murdered the 
sleep of every body else. Another grievance felt only 
by a fastidious few, grew out of the fact that few of 
the staterooms were supplied with ewers and basins, 
the occupants of the others being expected to perform 
their ablutions in a small wash-room, scantily supplied 
with water and towels, and allowed but a minute and a 
half for the duty, elbowed and grumbled at in the mean 



DAVENPORT- ROCK ISLAND. 171 

time by half a dozen impatient for the succession. 
This was uncomfortable enough for those who could 
be content with " a wipe" over the prominent parts 
of the face, and an imperfect cleansing of the hands ; 
but for us whom the habitual and plenteous use of the 
Croton had made absolutely dependent for life and 
comfort on a daily bond fide bath the evil was intole 
rable. We had no resource but to brave the cabin- 
maid s frowns and a general stare, by seeking an intro 
duction to the concealed water barrel, filling stolen or 
borrowed pitchers to the brim, carrying them resolutely 
to our staterooms, and fastening the door. I must 
record my conviction that the duty of cleanliness is 
sadly neglected by the generality of tourists. The 
poorest boats would be better provided with conveni 
ences for washing, were these required or used ; but 
most passengers are satisfied with the limited facili 
ties afforded. Our ablutions being regarded as an 
extraordinary innovation on established custom, we 
did not wonder at hearing one woman say she "felt 
very mean," and another, that " travelling never 
seemed to do any good " to her or her family. 

At length we were swung alongside the St. Paul, a 
new and beautiful boat, sumptuously furnished. The 
scenery of the Mississippi is merely pleasing, but not 
of striking beauty, between Galena and the Illinois 
Eiver. The site of Davenport and Kock Island, at the 
foot of the upper rapids, is imposing, and the range of 
hills surrounding those towns form a fine background 
to the picture. The island, with the deserted buildings 
of Fort Armstrong the locality of the murder of Col. 



172 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

Davenport is always pointed out, and arrests the eye 
as the most remarkable object in the vicinity. At the 
mouth of the Illinois the bluffs rise to the height of 
one hundred and fifty or two hundred feet, and become 
precipitous, with the same castellated appearance ob 
served above Dubuque. These columnar fronts are 
often so regular as to resemble architectural ruins. 
This formation continues nearly all the way to Alton. 

It was eleven o clock, a bright moonlight night, 
when we landed at Alton. The stillness was remark 
able for so large a town, and but one person could be 
seen on the large wharf; it was the porter of the 
Franklin House, who placed the luggage on his bar 
row and silently led the way to the hotel. In the 
morning we were welcomed to the hospitable home of 
a kind relative Eev. Mr. L. who resided in what is 
called the Middle town. This city of Alton is divided 
into three distinct villages the Lower town, the place 
of business, being more compactly built on rugged 
eminences and declivities, somewhat after the fashion 
of Galena ; the Middle, a long mile distant, composed 
of more aristocratic country residences, each furnished 
with spacious grounds and gardens ; and the Upper 
built in a similar manner. A large business is done 
in the place, and it is pervaded by an air of vitality. 
A packet plies twice a day between it and St. Louis. 

After a visit of a day or two in Alton, my cousin 
accompanied me in a drive to Bunker Hill, about 
seventeen miles distant. He had been one of the 
earliest residents of the State, and his pioneer recollec 
tions were interesting. Not far from Alton we passed 



FOET EDWARDS PIONEERS. 173 

by the site of Fort Edwards. This was standing in 
1813, when it afforded protection to the hardy border 
settlers from the prowling Indian. It stood in Madison 
County, Illinois, three miles from the Mississippi 
River, in the midst of a deep forest, its blockhouses 
and other buildings made of stout hewn logs, its pickets 
a rampart of thick saplings, strong enough to defy the 
assault of musketry, and the smooth green of its in- 
closure, in the midst of which was a well of the rude 
fashion of the olden time, shadowed by the farspread- 
ing boughs of lofty trees without. The only memorial 
of this primitive military post is a drawing taken 
by an accomplished lady residing at Paddock s Grove, 
about ten miles distant ; she also furnished me with 
the story which has made that spot memorable in 
Western tradition. 

Before the outbreak of the last war with Great 
Britain, Abel and George Moore, two brothers from 
the Carolinas, paddled their way up the Mississippi 
with their families and goods, and landed not far from 
the site of Lower Alton. They made their way with 
difficulty through the tangled woods three miles into 
the interior in the forks of Wood Eiver, a pretty stream 
flowing through the prairies lying several miles to 
wards the east. Here in time, log cabins, chinked with 
clay, with mud and stick chimneys, were built ; fields 
were cleared and planted, and vegetables filled the 
little gardens. The dwellings were about half a mile 
distant each from the other, with woods between ; but 
a well-trodden trail led from house to house. The 
Moores and their neighbors frequently heard of Indian 



174 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

depredations committed in other settlements, but living 
in so remote and secluded a locality, they felt little 
apprehension. This delusive confidence marked the 
spot forever as the scene of a murder, the atrocity of 
which is not exceeded in the annals of savage warfare. 
On a bright Sabbath day the two children of one 
of tHe Moores came with an aunt to their uncle s cabin 
to play with their young cousins. Towards evening 
the children asked permission to visit a neighbor whose 
farm lay just back of the Moores , and four of them 
went away in high spirits, accompanied by their aunt, 
who promised to bring them home before dusk. When 
the evening was far advanced, and they did not re 
turn, the consciousness of imprudence- in suffering 
them to venture alone, for the first time struck Moore 
and his wife, and he set off for his brother s cabin, 
thinking the little party might have gone thither from 
the neighbor s. This hope was disappointed ; they had 
not been there since the morning. The other Moore 
called two men, and the four, carrying their guns, 
went into the woods to search for the missing ones. 
Mrs. Moore, as soon as her husband, brother-in- 
law, and the two men had left her cabin, unable to 
bear the tortures of suspense, resolved to go out her 
self, and bridling a horse from the stable she mounted 
without a saddle, and riding at full speed dashed into 
the woods. She made her way notwithstanding the 
darkness, along the well marked trail, but had not rode 
far before the gleam of something white in the path 
arrested her attention. Flinging herself from the horse 
and laying her hand on the object, she felt something 



DISCOVERY OF THE MURDERED. 175 

soft, warm and quivering. A moment turned her 
breathless suspense into horrible certainty ; it was the 
body of her beloved sister ! At a flash she com 
prehended the full extent of the awful calamity. The 
imminent danger in which she herself stood, she heed 
ed not. Again mounting her horse, she rode on till she 
met the four men, to whom she communicated her ter 
rible discovery, and when they had procured lights, 
went back with them to the place of death. 

It was as she had anticipated ; the yet warm, but 
lifeless corpses of the sister and the four children lay 
scalped and shockingly mangled. It was a fearful 
scene that ghastly disclosure the glare of the torches 
on the ensanguined forms of the murdered innocents 
the bfack darkness around the forest boughs shutting 
out the sky the grief and horror in the faces of the 
living ! The dear remains were reverently lifted from 
the bloody ground, two more men the six constitut 
ing the whole neighborhood having been sent for, 
and were conveyed to the house where they had spent 
the day so pleasantly. Shortly after midnight the 
men had prepared a single grave to receive the five 
slaughtered ones; and then they armed themselves 
and went forth in pursuit of the Indians, leaving the 
two bereaved mothers to perform the last sad offices 
for the dead. " More than thirty years " Mrs. Moore 
has been heard to say u have passed away since that 
terrible night, and the mournful day that followed it, 
yet the memory of the heart-rending scene is as vivid 
as if it had occurred but yesterday. Sister Moore 
and I went to work ; collected all the pieces of split 



176 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

board we could find, and placed them in the bottom 
of the grave ; then we brought fresh grass and leaves, 
and made a bed upon them with as much care as if 
we had been providing for the comfort of the dear 
children. After washing the clotted blood from what 
hair the removal of the scalps had left, and from their 
poor mangled bodies, we dressed them, and then lay 
ing their aunt first in the grave, placed two little ones 
on each side of her. We spread a sheet and quilt 
over them, and a covering of leaves and grass, and re 
placed the earth above them." It was but a few days 
after this mournful tragedy, that Gov. Edwards, then 
Governor of the Territory of Illinois, came with his 
rangers to the little settlement. The locality was se 
lected for a fort, which was built shortly afterwards, 
and called Fort Edwards. 

Bunker Hill is one of the most beautiful little vil 
lages in the State, situated on a prairie in high cultiva 
tion ; the houses are neat and arranged tastefully, and 
each is garnished with a pretty garden and plenty of 
shade trees, which give the loveliest rural aspect 
imaginable to the whole place. I found here a wel 
come reception from a near relative, and a charming 
circle of kinsfolk, who had been expecting a visit of 
some weeks. 



BUNKER HILL CLAY COTTAGE. 177 



THE advantages of a prairie location are very impor 
tant to a farmer, but the aspect of a vast treeless plain, 
unrelieved by shade or flowing water, is any thing but 
inviting. This little village, situated in the heart of 
an extensive prairie a part of the vast range stretch 
ing northward to Chicago occupies the summit of the 
" roll ; " the streets are shaded with stately trees, and 
the houses generally surrounded by shade trees and 
shrubbery. " Clay Cottage," the residence of my 
venerable aunt, is a rural paradise. The dwelling 
house, of substantial brick, painted light gray, peeps 
invitingly through a plantation of tall trees of several 
varieties its verandah and trellised porch wreathed 
with roses and flowering vines, and a bordering of rare 
shrubs and rose trees completely embowering it. The 
smooth lawn is sprinkled with shrubbery, and a clus 
tering grape-vine covers with its luxuriant drapery 
the whole of the rear buildings. On one side, the 
lawn terminates in a large flower garden filled with 
choice and beautiful plants ; on the other, a grove of 
tall trees, carpeted with verdure, terminates in a park 
of locust trees so thickly planted that the sun cannot 
penetrate their recesses. This by confession the most 
8* 



178 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

elegant "place" in town, may represent the better or 
der of prairie homes. A well is on the premises, and 
wood is easily brought from the " timber " a few miles 
distant. The fruit trees yield abundance of fruit ; the 
wild prairie affords pasturage for the cows, and the 
breezes that sweep across the green, heaving expanse, 
are laden with health and invigorating power. Wild 
fruits are brought in every day for sale, and at the 
proper seasons, deer, wild turkeys and ducks, prairie 
fowl, partridges, &c., are offered. A specimen of the 
peaches was sent me, which measured eleven inches in 
circumference. 

The population of Bunker Hill is about three 
hundred. The Alton and Terre Haute Eailroad 
passes through the village, and the railroad from Al 
ton to Springfield, within seven miles. There is a 
Presbyterian and a Methodist church, and a Baptist 
congregation. The original name for the site was 
Wolf Ridge, on account of its elevated situation, and its 
being known as the haunt of a number of prairie 
wolves. It is not long since one of these animals was 
seen in the village. The inhabitants well remember 
the night prowlers at the doors of their cabins, in fear 
of which they were obliged every night to secure their 
provisions, if they would not have the bread snatched 
from their cupboards, or the meat from their larders. 
It ought to be added, that there is no lawyer in the 
village, and at present there seems no need of one. 
The only one who ever lived here was drowned 
in Wood River which he was crossing on horse 
back. A monument is being built to his memory. 



PRAIRIES DROUGHT. 179 

There are two excellent practising physicians Dr. 
H and Dr. E. 

On the road leading to Woodburn, three miles 
westward, in a strip of timber bordering Wood Creek, 
stands an oak of towering height, which is called "the 
tree," by way of distinction. Woodburn is a village 
nearly as large as Bunker Hill, but not so pretty in 
appearance, and at this season in a dusty dishabille. 
No portion of the country feels the drought more than 
the prairie. The winds which sweep over it, un- 
moistened by streams and lakes, whirl clouds of dust 
from the trodden highway, and shake gustily the tops 
of the trees around -the dwellings. In different direc 
tions extend beautiful drives, affording views of the 
wild and solitary prairie, boundless to the sight, yet* 
sprinkled afar off with fields of tall corn and low white 
houses, each, doubtless, having its own story of change, 
and hardship, and labor, and hope to tell in the history 
of its inmates. 

While driving out with one of my cousins, here 
and there we crossed the dry bed of a stream which 
at high water dashes merrily along, now parched up, 
so that the cattle, wandering over their immense pas 
ture-ground, can find no water. A few forlorn geese 
had gone down into a cleft, and stood like topers 
pledging each other in a farewell, round a small pud 
dle, the last remains of the shrunken stream, whose dry 
channel showed its former dimensions. At intervals 
a small frame dwelling, painted white and unrelieved 
by shade, peered up from the edge of the undulating 
landscape, requiring little stretch of fancy to be thought 



180 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

a sail on the bosom of an ocean-like expanse. But the 
settlers generally have had the good taste to plant trees 
for shade around their homes ; and a cluster of them 
almost invariably denotes a civilized habitation. 

About a mile and a half from the village is the 
home of a pioneer family, who removed from the 
neighborhood of Philadelphia some nineteen years 
ago, compelled by adverse circumstances to seek a 
home in western wilds. They had mingled in the 
refined circles of the city, and were accustomed to the 
luxuries of metropolitan life. The loss of property 
involved as they conceived, the loss of consideration, 
and in a kind of disgust with the world they re 
solved to bury themselves from the sight of their 
fellow creatures. The situation of their future home 
was chosen on the lone, wild prairie, far from human 
companionship or observation. A log cabin, well 
plastered with clay, was hauled from a distance ; a 
chimney was built, and the first thing. done was to dig 
a well and set out trees which might serve as a shelter 
from the burning sun. In the spring following a 
garden was laid out, the ground having been pre 
viously broken, and the plants which had been brought 
from the East, and kept in wet moss and earth, were 
set out. 

Although bountiful nature has rewarded their 
labor, they still live in the primitive cabin which first 
received them, and retain their unsocial habits. Mrs. 
M will sometimes visit her neighbors, but wel 
comes none to her own dwelling ; nor can any entreaty 
ever prevail on her to dine or take tea with an acquaint- 



A PEAIEIE HOME. 181 

ance; she cannot, she says, return the civility in a 
proper manner, and pride forbids her acceptance of it. 
It was a warm afternoon when we drove thither, 
and fastening our horse at the gate, entered the in- 
closure. This was planted with trees, a dense cluster 
of which surrounded the cabin, which looked pictu 
resque enough ; in front the roof extended into a shed 
several feet wide, serving for a rustic portico ; it was 
supported and shaded by the trees, and its extremity 
sheltered a well, by which the dripping bucket just 
drawn up by the windlass, stood offering the most re 
freshing beverage in the world. The sides of the cabin 
were hung with dried fruits of various kinds, different 
utensils for use, and articles of dress. In the single 
room were two beds, a table, and sundry chests, chairs, 
benches, etc. ; there were two large glazed windows, 
and the remainder of the space was occupied with 
shelves, on which were heaped an unimaginable 
variety of articles. The chimney was built outside, 
and the wide hearth covered with substantial brick. 
There was a singular inconsistency between the rude 
aspect of this primitive home and the romantic beauty 
that surrounded it. The unmistakable impress of a 
delicate and refined taste was perceptible every where ; 
in the artistic disposition of the trees and shrubbery, 
the careful veiling of all unsightly points, the rich 
smooth green of the grass, and the neat arrangement 
of the various outbuildings, all of which were sheltered 
by the softening foliage of the maple, redbud or 
locust. We were still more astonished when invited 
to walk into the flower-garden, to find it filled with 



182 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

the rarest and most exquisite specimens, such as would 
have done credit to the collection of a city florist. 
The younger lady made a selection of lovely flowers, 
and presented us each with a fragrant bouquet. An 
hour s conversation left us impressed with wonder at 
the cultivation evinced by persons who were content 
to live in so poor a dwelling. " Content" is hardly 
the word ; for they have never ceased to regret the 
comforts of city life, nor become reconciled to their 
remote seclusion. Yet they prefer a home in the 
wilderness to living with reduced fortunes among 
their former friends, and desire no association with 
the neighbors who have clustered around them within 
a few years. " We are like Daniel Boone," said the 
old lady; " we have no longer room, the country is 
becoming too thickly settled." Yet probably none 
will come in sight during the term of her life. 

A prairie home of a different character, stands on a 
considerable elevation two miles and a half from the 
village. The situation commands a very extensive 
view of the undulating landscape for many miles 
around, with the scattered white houses peering up at 
intervals on the edge of the horizon, and clumps of 
trees here and there denoting a residence of better pre 
tensions. A thick grove of tall trees almost conceals 
from view a small framed house, behind which is a 
great field of standing corn, nearly twenty feet in 
height. A well almost dried up by the summer 
drought, is near the gate, and the shaded path winds 
upward to the door of the cabin, for it is no more, 
having but one room inside, with a loft. This room is 



PIONEER ANECDOTES. 183 

occupied by two large beds, one of which is curtained 
off by a drapery of white sheeting, and a trundle bed 
is rolled out for the accommodation of a sick, child. 
Two small tables, a chest, and a few split-bottom chairs, 
with a countless variety of smaller articles in house 
keeping use, completed the furniture ; the wide chim 
ney-piece was stoutly defended with brick, and the 
plastered walls, discolored by time and hideously dirty, 
were somewhat less picturesque than the primitive 
sides of a log cabin. An unusual natural curiosity 
had made the place one of some resort. Two years 
since, three healthy, infants, the offspring of one birth, 
lay in helpless innocence on one of the beds, appealing 
to the sympathetic care of curious visitors for a larger 
supply of clothing than had been provided in ex 
pectation of one. 

Two of my relatives were pioneers some nineteen 
years ago, in this part of Illinois. Much of the furni 
ture of their cabin was sent from Philadelphia, and 
included articles rarely seen in the backwoods, such as 
a carpet, sofa, etc. A neighbor who came in after it was 
arranged, expressed his surprise at the unusual quan 
tity of " plunder," and in making his way to the am 
ple fire-place, mounted on the chairs, and walked care 
fully from one to another around the room, treading as 
lightly as possible on the sofa. When asked why he did 
so, he answered, "Because I don t want to dirty that 
ere nice coverlid." The attention of another was drawn 
to the carved feet of the sofa, and at length, moving 
gently towards it and stooping down to feel them, he 
exclaimed, " Bless me if them aint bar s claws ! " 



}84: SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

Some incidents in the history of a family which 
I heard related hereabouts, are curiously romantic. 
A farmer, whom we shall call May, whose means were 
ampler than most new settlers , lived in 1812 in Illi 
nois, about six miles from St. Louis. One morning 
early, a person then lodging in the house, who fur 
nished this information, heard Mrs. May s voice in 
startled tones, calling to her husband to ask " What 
noise is that ? " The drowsy husband answered, 
that the cry was probably that of an opossum or a 
screech owl. "Ah, no, John !" exclaimed the wife 
"it is a young child! " She sprang from the bed, as 
did her husband, and both ran to the door ; a basket 
was set on the doorstep, covered with a blanket, which 
Mrs. May removed, and there lay, imbedded in snow- 
white muslin and linen, a beautiful infant ! Lifting it 
in her arms, she ran into the house, and laying it on 
her lap, examined its features with delighted curiosity, 
* Is it not a beauty ? she cried, looking up in her 
husband s face : " and the way it has come is so funny ! " 
The stern farmer replied, that he could see no fun 
in having other people s brats thrust upon him ; but 
his grumbling was hushed by the benevolent woman, 
whose whole soul went forth in kindness towards 
the little helpless creature evidently not more than 
four weeks old thus cast on her maternal care. Not 
withstanding the displeasure of Mr. May, which she 
knew to be more in appearance than reality, she kept 
her resolution of adding the trouble of providing for 
it to the charge of her own four children. 

Matters went on thus for two or three years, and 



THE FOUNDLING ADOPTED. 185 

the foundling, increased in beauty, became the pet of 
the household. Mr. May, however, treated the little 
girl with an indifference amounting to dislike, and 
manifested annoyance particularly when his wife would 
tell her visitors the child s brief history always pre 
facing it by the exclamation "the way the dear little 
thing came to us was so funny ! " One day while he 
was alone in the room, he was playing with little Mary, 
when hearing his wife s step, he set her down quickly, 
pushing her from him. The child cried : Mrs. May took 
her up, and spoke complainingly of her husband s un 
kind treatment of the little desolate creature, whom he 
seemed to hate. " You are mistaken, Nancy," replied 
the farmer ; "I do not hate the child; see, she knows 
I love her as much as yourself," and as he smiled and 
held out his arms, Mary sprang from the lap of her 
protectress and came to him, laughing merrily. 

"But why, John, do you always treat the poor 
thing so unkindly ? " asked the wife. 

" I will tell you why, Nancy ; because you tell every 
body all about her ; and it frets me to have people sup 
pose I am bringing up nobody knows who, as my own ; 
besides, it is a disgrace to the child ! Now if you will 
agree to what I propose, I am willing, for the child s 
good, to sell out and move to one of the northern ter 
ritories. But you must promise never to let any one 
know that we are not her parents, and never again 
to allude to the funny way in which she came to 
us." 

Mrs. May readily agreed to this generous proposal ; 
the farmer sold out, and removed to what was then 



186 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

the territory of Michigan. We will now take up an 
other portion of the story. 

In one of the Eastern cities, a Mr. L and Miss 

C , both of highly respectable families, had formed 

a matrimonial engagement with their parents consent. 
But a wealthier suitor came, to whom the father, a 
stern and violent man, determined to wed his daughter. 
The lovers were secretly married, and arrangements 
were made with a respectable family going to Missouri, 
to take the bride with them, the husband who called him 
self her brother, promising to join them shortly. He 
left the city some time before Miss C s disappear 
ance, and all believed that he had gone on a sea voyage. 

Soon after leaving home, Miss C wrote to inform 

her parents she was safe with friends, and had fled to 
avoid a compulsory marriage. 

After a journey of several weeks, the young couple 
arrived at St. Louis. Notwithstanding the pains taken 
to conceal their movements, in a few months the father 
learned that his daughter was in the western country, 
and wrote to her that her mother, almost heart-broken 
at her loss, had fallen into ill health. Sincerely regret 
ting his own unfeeling conduct, he entreated her to 
return in the spring, at which time he would send for 
her, having no suspicion that she was married. This 
letter was received by Mrs. L a short time pre 
vious to the birth of an infant, who was no other than 
the foundling aforementioned. She resolved to set off 
on her homeward journey as soon as her strength per 
mitted. A journey in the spring, at that period, from 
St. Louis to Pittsburgh, was both difficult and danger- 



ROMANTIC SCHEME. 187 

ous ; Mr. L expected to return, and he thought it 

best to leave their child, urging that the parents of 
his wife would be more readily conciliated by her re 
turning apparently as she had left them ; explaining 
all when she could choose a favorable time for so 
doing. The young mother could not bear the thought 
of parting with her little one ; but feeling that she 
could never forgive herself should her mother die be 
fore she could return to receive her forgiveness and 
blessing, it appeared her duty to sacrifice her own 
feelings, and she at last consented. 

Then occurred the question with whom could 
the precious babe be trusted ? The inhabitants of the 
place were mostly French, and they knew no trust 
worthy person who could be prevailed on to take 
charge of it. A young man, Mr. L. s only intimate 
friend, was acquainted with Mr. and Mrs. May, and 
suggested that they would be certain to treat the 
child with all the tenderness its own parents could 
lavish on it, if their humanity were appealed to in 
its behalf as a deserted foundling. He engaged to 
deposit the infant, with all due circumstances of mys 
tery, at their door, and report the manner of its re 
ception ; also to look after it faithfully in the absence 
of its parents. 

The mother consented to the romantic scheme, 
and, packing the basket with as many clothes as it 
would hold placing in the bottom a purse full of 
money she set out with her husband and his friend, 
in the night, for May s house. Within a short dis 
tance of this they stopped, and with foreboding an- 



188 SUMMER EAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

guish, both kissed the baby s smooth cheek, and 
resigned it to their friend, endeavoring to console 
themselves with the belief that a year, at the furthest, 
would restore their darling to their arms. In a few 
days their friend called on Mr. May, saw how well the 
child was doing, heard the foster-mother say she 
loved and would cherish it as her own, and made a 
satisfactory report to its anxious parents. 

Mr. and Mrs. L. immediately set off for the East, 
separating a few days before their arrival at the house of 
the wife s father. She was joyfully welcomed, and Mr. 
L. soon after received a letter inviting him to join her. 

It was now about the commencement of the war 
with Great Britain, and as it was known the Indians 
would be troublesome on the frontier, it was arranged 
that Mr. L. should go immediately to the West, and 
bring the child to its mother. He reached St. Louis 
at a time when a general panic on account of the 
Indians had scattered the inhabitants. His friend 
had joined the rangers, and could nowhere be found ; 
Mr. May s family had also disappeared ; the neighbors 
had taken refuge in forts ; and the most diligent in 
quiries failed in procuring the desired information. 
After some narrow escapes from the Indians, he was 
obliged to abandon the search, and return, disap 
pointed and dispirited, to his unhappy wife. At 
the end of the war, both set out for the West, and 
landed at Shawneetown. From this point they 
travelled northward through Illinois, making diligent 
inquiries in every direction ; for the hope of finding 
the lost one was not yet extinct in the mother s breast- 



THE LOST FOUND. 189 

After travelling through the country for nearly 
a year, they discovered May s residence, and had the 
happiness of embracing the child whom separation 
had the more endeared to them. She was even more 
beautiful than the promise of her infancy, and very 
happy with her kind foster-parents, who had been 
preserved and prospered through all the troubles and 
dangers by which they had been surrounded. Mr. 
May was one of the most thriving farmers of Michi 
gan. This little romantic episode in his history may 
not be known to his neighbors for he was never very 
communicative but it was the ground of a lasting 
friendship between his family and that of the little 
adopted one ; both acknowledging from it a profitable 
lesson in life. 



190 SUMMER EAMBLES IN THE WEST. 



XII. 



SOME ten miles from Bunker Hill, southward, is a 
country seat with rather elaborate surroundings of 
extensive gardens and park-like grounds, filled with 
trees of stately growth regarded as the most aristo 
cratic residence in the country for many miles around. 
The same family have occupied the premises between 
twenty and thirty years. Emigrating from New Eng 
land, they located land in Illinois when it was but 
a territory, and its prairies were traversed by the wild 
savage. Their first abode was, as usual, a log cabin, 
patched with clay, with a mud and stick chimney built 
on the outside, and puncheon floor the rough boards 
of the roof projecting a few feet in front, so as to form 
a shelter at the door from the falling rain or the noon 
day sun. This edifice is still preserved, and stands 
close behind the prouder mansion which is now the 
home of the pioneer family ; a feeling of honorable 
pride inspiring them with a reverence for the humble 
dwelling which received the parents on their removal 
from the East. 

All the neighbors within scores of miles remember 
the venerable Mrs. P , as a true pioneer mother ; 



AN ELEGANT PBAIEIE HOME. 191 

her industry, neatness, and thrifty management, and 
the orderly, unostentatious, dignified manner in which 
she discharged her matronly duties sitting in some 
state at the head of her table, dressed in the old 
and simple fashion, and teaching her daughters to excel 
in those branches of housewifery which she had made 
to contribute so essentially to the comfort of all around 
her. Death removed her and the partner of her cares, 
and for years the house has been in possession of five 
unmarried daughters the family having lately re 
ceived an accession in a married sister, with her 
husband and children. The evidence of graceful 
female taste and care is seen in every part of the 
grounds and of the spacious mansion, which has long 
been noted as the seat of hospitality and charity. 
The flowers, shrubbery, and lawns are kept in the 
neatest order, and the plenteous table is seldom 
surrounded only by the family; visitors come from 
every quarter, and are always sure of receiving 
a genuine Western welcome. Our little party drove 
thither on a very warm day, passing through sev 
eral strips of woodland bordering small streams, 
now dried up. At one point, the cry was sud 
denly raised, " A deer ! " and a glance showed a 
splendid doe careering swiftly across the prairie, toss 
ing her head as if to snuff the morning breeze, and 
clearing the way with such graceful bounds, that it 
must have been a hard heart that could have wished 
to cut short the enjoyment of so beautiful a creature 
by the deadly ball. 

A large framed house by the roadside, half con- 



192 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

cealed in a plantation of locusts, was the abode of 
sickness ; and while Dr. Ellet alighted and went in to 

see his patient, two of the Misses P came down 

the walk to greet us. They were on an errand of 
kindness, ministering to the sick neighbor, and ex 
pressed their regret at not being able to accompany 
us home. But the day was rendered agreeable by the 
hospitable attention of the other sisters. A white- 
haired old gentleman and his wife, their visitors, who 
were of Scottish birth, had known intimately Burns 
"Highland Mary," and had some of her letters: and 
related anecdotes of the poet and his family. The 
heat of the day forbade extensive walks, but we lin 
gered around the garden and shrubbery, and under 
the lofty trees, the shadows of which lay invitingly on 
the smooth grass, and listened to the history of a glorious 
pioneer woman of the West, which I shall record as 
a most interesting portion of the border annals of our 
country. 

Mary ISFealy was born on the 20th August, 1761, 
not far from Charleston, South Carolina. When she 
was very young, her father removed his family to 
Tennessee ; the emigrants passing through Georgia to 
the place where now stands Chattanooga. The family 
was sent down the Tennessee Eiver in canoes, taking 
with them their household stuff, clothes and pro 
visions, while the father drove his horses and cattle 
along the banks ; the two parties joining each other 
at the Muscle Shoals, whence they proceeded by land 
to the locality afterwards called Nealy s Bend, on the 
Cumberland River, near the site of Nashville. Our 



MISS NE ALT S CAPTURE. 193 

adventurous pioneer lived here several years. Mrs. 
Nealy took upon herself the task of teaching her 
daughters, hearing their spelling and reading lessons 
while she was busily spinning on her little wheel. 
When a school was established, the sons were sent three 
miles to attend it every day, the path through the 
woods being so infested with wolves that they were 
usually obliged to go on horseback. 

After the commencement of the Revolutionary 
struggle, the family, with others in the neighborhood, 
sought refuge in a fort ; the men venturing out as op 
portunity permitted, to attend to the cattle and culti 
vate their fields. Nealy was engaged in making salt, 
and was sometimes assisted by his daughter Mary, or 
Polly, as she was called. On a Sabbath morning in 
the fall of 1780, the young girl, wearing her Sunday 
dress, left the station in company with her father, and 
walked with him to the bank of the river. Mary hap 
pened to be standing at some little distance from her 
father, when she suddenly heard the report of a gun, 
and saw him fall to the ground. She had only time 
to see an Indian leap from his covert, when she lost 
her consciousness in a swoon. On her recovery, she 
found herself in the grasp of two of the savages, who 
were dragging her off with all possible haste, evident 
ly apprehensive of pursuit from the station, which was 
at no great distance. No aid came, however, and the 
helpless girl was compelled to go on with her captors. 
They were three days without food ; at length a bear 
was killed, and a piece of flesh given to the starving 
captive, which she ate raw. This imprudence pro- 



194 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

duced severe illness, which was relieved by drinking 
a quantity of the bear s oil, according to Indian pre 
scription. 

The prisoner was offered her choice between be 
coming the wife of the chief s son, or the slave of his 
oldest wife ; she chose the latter, and soon made her 
self so useful that the savages determined to spare her 
life. The party continued some time in Tennessee 
and Kentucky, and often encamped in canebrakes. 
One night, in attempting to escape for the hope of 
finding her way back to home and friends was still 
cherished by the unfortunate girl after leaving the 
encampment, she chanced to step on a sharp fragment 
of cane, which ran entirely through her foot. She 
was of course recaptured, and suffered the extremest 
agony from the wound, which was not entirely healed 
for months afterwards. During this time, having 
learned something of the Indian language, she fre 
quently heard the advice given to kill and scalp her, 
rather than be troubled with a poor cripple ; and it is 
probable nothing saved her but her knowledge of 
sewing and other kinds of work, which made her a 
valuable servant to her mistress. 

One night when the Indians had encamped on the 
bank of a small stream, a heavy storm came on. To 
obtain shelter, Mary climbed into a tree completely 
canopied by a luxuriant grape-vine. In a short time 
after she had thus secured herself, a fierce gust of 
wind uprooted a large tree near by, and it fell with a 
tremendous crash, immediately over the place she had 
quitted. She heard the savages calling to her amidst 



LONGINGS TO ESCAPE. 195 

the darkness and the driving storm, and when they 
received no answer, ascertained by their exclamations 
that they supposed she had been killed. A flash of 
joy penetrated her heart ; here was an opportunity of 
escape ! She remained still, while the Indians called 
and shouted repeatedly ; but when they were silent, 
fear began to shake her new-born hopes. She had 
been severely punished for the previous attempt, and 
threatened with the tomahawk if it were ever repeated. 
Should she leave the tree, the dogs would in all proba 
bility discover her, and give the alarm. Uncertain 
what to do, she remained in the tree all night, not an 
swering the calls which were repeated at intervals, in 
hopes the Indians would break up camp and depart 
before day, as they always did when apprehensive of 
pursuit. She was found, however, and compelled to 
accompany them in their northward course, and 
having crossed the Ohio, gave up in despair the faint 
hope that had remained in her breast, of being re 
stored to her kindred. Fortune seemed to delight in 
mocking her with opportunities by which she could 
not profit. One night when they had encamped, a 
snow-storm came on, and she was completely covered 
by a snowdrift. In the morning, as the Indians were 
preparing to continue their journey, she could be 
found nowhere, and they concluded she had gone off 
during the night. Their anger was loudly expressed, 
and the most terrible tortures threatened, if she should 
again fall into their power. Hearing all this imper 
fectly, and only understanding that she was wanted, 
Mary rose from under her white coverlet in the very 



196 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

midst of the infuriated savages, whose shouts of as 
tonishment and merriment, when they discovered the 
truth, were absolutely deafening. It was a bitter 
thought to her, that had she known how securely she 
was concealed, she might have remained in safety. 
The morning meal of the Indians was a large black 
snake, which was roasted and divided. A few inches 
only fell to the poor girl s share, but the piquant sauce 
of hunger made it seem delicious food. She was al 
ways permitted to share in every thing with her captors. 
At one time, when the men were all absent from 
the camp, a large deer was seen making directly 
towards it. The old chief s wife ordered Mary to take 
a gun and shoot the animal, as she was known to be 
the best shot among all the women. The chief had 
expressly forbidden firing, on pain of death, in the 
absence of his men, the discharge of a gun being the 
appointed signal of the near approach of an enemy, 
and Mary hesitated to obey ; but being urged, she firedj 
and shot the deer. In a few moments the Indians 
came rushing in, expecting to encounter the foe ; and, 
when informed that it was a false alarm, the chief 
raised his tomahawk to kill the white girl who had 
dared to disobey his commands. His wife threw her 
self between him and the intended victim, exclaiming 
that she herself was the offender ; but for a moment, 
as the uplifted weapon was whirling several times 
round the Indian s head, Mary expected he would 
bury it in her own. Perhaps the prospect of plenty 
of savory venison for supper did something to pacify 
the angry warrior. 



ILLNESS OTHER PRISONERS. 197 

At another time, when, by some means or other, 
the smallpox was introduced among the party, the 
captive became desperately ill with the terrible dis 
ease. For ten days she was entirely blind, being left 
alone in a lodge built for her at some distance from 
the camp, near a spring. Her food was brought and 
left at the spring, to which she would grope her way 
once in twenty-four hours. Her sufferings were some 
what alleviated by an ointment made by simmering 
prickly pear in bear s grease, which a compassionate 
squaw prepared for her. During this season of dis 
tress, she often wished for death, but the hope of being 
at some future day delivered from her cruel bondage, 
would support her to a patient endurance of her pro 
tracted trials. Some of the articles in her possession 
had been taken from her. A knife was left, which 
she preserved with the greatest care, and took every 
opportunity, when unobserved, of cutting her name on 
the bark of trees, in the hope that the marks might 
lead to her rescue. 

It is supposed that this party of Indians remained 
a year in the northwestern part of Tennessee, at the 
forks of Cumberland and Tennessee Kivers, and near 
the junction of the Ohio with the Mississippi, afterwards 
passing into what is now Indiana. Several white 
prisoners were brought in, meanwhile, from Tennessee 
and Kentucky : amongst them, a man named Riddle 
and his two daughters, who were occasionally in Miss 
Nealy s company. At all times, when her health per 
mitted, Mary was engaged in some useful occupation, 
never caring how laborious it might be, as her mental 



198 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

disquietude was thus relieved. The only employment 
she objected to, was the moulding of bullets, to which 
she was often compelled. As the journey continued, 
she became acquainted with a French fur-trader, whom 
she besought to aid her in effecting her escape. He 
would not listen to her entreaties, and she left him in 
dignant at his want of humane feeling. A little con 
science-stricken, perhaps, for his refusal, he brought a 
blanket the next day, and offered it to her ; but she 
rejected the gift, saying that she scorned to receive 
any thing from a heartless wretch, who was too 
cowardly to give her the aid she required. 

After they had passed into Michigan, where their 
numbers were increased by other captives, one of the 
females, weak from exhaustion and carrying an infant 
a few months old, failed to keep up with the rest, 
though assisted occasionally by the kind-hearted 
squaws. When they encamped at night, a consulta 
tion was held among the men, and it was resolved to 
kill the child. They had built a large fire, and when 
the wood had been consumed to a bed of glowing 
coals, one of the warriors snatched the babe from its 
mother s breast and threw it into the midst. It was 
instantly drawn out and thrown back into the arms of 
its distracted mother; again snatched from her and 
thrown into the fire, to be again drawn out ; and this 
fiendish pastime was repeated amidst the screams of 
the agonized parent, and hideous yells from the sav 
ages, leaping and dancing the while with frantic ges 
tures, till life was extinct in the little victim ; when it 
was torn to pieces by the murderers. Scenes like this, 



INDIAN BAEBAKITY REMOVAL TO DETKOIT. 199 

which were not of uncommon occurrence, inspired Miss 
JSTealy with a feeling of detestation towards the per 
petrators of such outrages, which became habitual, and 
amounted to a vindictive hate, of which she could 
never wholly divest herself. She would never speak 
their language unless compelled by circumstances to 
use it, and used to say, that the only favor she ever 
asked of them was that she might be put to death. 
"When in after life, a favorite granddaughter, who had 
been born and reared in her house, expressed a desire 
to wear ear-rings, and was about to purchase a pair, 
she persuaded her not to do so, speaking with melan 
choly earnestness on the subject, and saying she should 
never be able to look at her beloved child without 
pain, if decorated with ornaments which would so 
strongly remind her of her savage enemies. 

It was Miss Nealy s lot to witness, at one time, the 
punishment of a young Indian and his paramour, for 
a crime rarely committed among the savage tribes. 
The criminals were bound to separate trees, and stoned 
to death, the white prisoners being compelled to see 
the execution. 

Many more incidents of adventure, peril, and suf 
fering are remembered by the family and descendants 
of our heroine, during her forest travel and sojourn with 
her wild companions. But the limits of a brief sketch 
permit only the record of those necessary to illustrate 
the experience common to too many in those fearful 
days of our republic. After a captivity of two years, 
the prisoners were taken to Detroit, where the Indians 
expected to receive from the British Government, pay- 



200 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

ment for the scalps they had brought. The savages 
received much attention from the English, as impor 
tant allies, while encamped in the neighborhood of the 
city. Mary was sent every day to the house of a 
French resident, to procure milk for a sick child of the 
chief. She saw the mistress of the house frequently, 
who became interested in her when she had learned 
her history. One morning, she told her to come on 
the following day ; to drop her milk can outside the 
gate, enter the house without rapping, and proceed 
directly to a certain room. The poor girl had been 
suffering from chills and fever for several weeks. The 
next morning, when she was ordered to go for milk, it 
happened that her paroxysm of fever was upon her. 
In her half delirious state, revolving her plan of escape, 
she lingered looking for a pair of silver shoe buckles, 
and was struck twice by her angry master before she 
set out on her errand. By the time she had reached 
the Frenchman s gate, her senses were sufficiently re 
stored to remember the directions of the day previous. 
When the Indians came in search of her, the woman 
of the house informed them that the girl had come to 
the gate, apparently in anger, had thrown down the 
vessel and departed, she did not know whither. On 
the following day men were sent by the city authori 
ties, to whom complaint had been made by the Indians, 
to search the house ; but no trace of the fugitive could 
be found. All this time, Mary lay quietly concealed 
in a small, dark closet, the door of which, opening into 
a larger one, could not be easily discovered. She 
occupied that room for a month, sustained by the 



ESCAPE EASTWAED VOYAGE. 201 

kind care of her benefactress. An accident had nearly 
betrayed her one day, when, looking carelessly from the 
window, she was startled by seeing the face of an 
Indian whom she knew, and by the gleam of his eyes, 
saw that he had also recognized her. She hastened to 
inform her protectress, and implore her aid. There 
was no time to be lost. She was supplied immediately 
with boy s apparel, her hair was cut off, and she was 
sent, accompanied by the son of her hostess, half a 
mile into the city to the house of another kind-hearted 
Frenchwoman, who gave her shelter, and kept her 
concealed several weeks. Work was also procured for 
her from a tailor, and she was enabled to earn sufficient 
to clothe herself comfortably. When the fear of pur 
suit was over, she was removed by night to an island 
in the river, where she found seventeen other captives 
whom she had met before, in her travels through 
Indiana, Ohio, or Michigan; some of them having 
been purchased by the British authorities, some having 
escaped through the assistance of the French inhabit 
ants of the city. 

Our heroine remained but three weeks in this new 
asylum. On leaving the island, the captives were 
conveyed down the lakes, stopping some time at Ni 
agara, and down the St. Lawrence Kiver, and were 
landed upon the shore of Lake Champlain, where they 
were exchanged as prisoners of war. Before they 
quitted the vessel, one of the British officers endeav 
ored to exact a promise from the company, which 
consisted of women, old men and boys, that they 
would not aid or abet the continentals against the 
9* 



202 SUMMEK KAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

royal government during the continuance of the war. 
Mrs. Spears was accustomed to relate, with much dig 
nity and spirit, how she refused to give the pledge, 
and challenged the officer to go on shore with her 
into a thicket of bushes, where she " would cut a 
switch, and brush him till he would be glad to pro 
mise, on his own part, that he would never again be 
caught upon provincial ground." She would describe 
the scene with as much pride at ninety, as she could 
have acted in it threescore and ten years before. The 
others caught a portion of her spirit, and in very truth 
cut them switches as soon as they were on shore, 
daring the officer to come on, and giving three cheers 
for the brave young woman. 

Her companions told her also that they were in 
expectation of seeing one of the American generals in 
a few days, and that when he came he would provide 
her with a horse and saddle. She continued her jour 
ney with this company for several days ; and when 
the others faltered from fatigue, and were unable to 
proceed, she went on in the hope of finding employ 
ment among the Dutch settlers, her only companions 
being an old man and two boys. After a day or two 
of weary travel in the snow, these also gave up, and 
one morning left her to proceed alone. It was a sad 
day for her tramping on through the snow and water 
in which her feet plunged at every step, and towards 
evening a heavy rain drenched her garments. Yet 
her courage did not fail, for she had now before her 
the hope of eventually reaching her beloved home, 
and felt that her success depended on herself alone. 



ATTACK OF ILLNESS. 203 

She could not persuade herself to stop for rest till after 
dark, when she came up to the door of a small cabin 
where a cheerful light was glimmering. Yerj cheer 
ing was the aspect of the huge blazing logs in the 
ample chimney, but other comforts there were none 
scarce even a morsel of bread ; and not a bed could be 
furnished on which to lay her wearied limbs. She 
was, however, accustomed to hardships, and lying 
down on the floor with her feet to the fire, without 
stopping to dry her clothes, soon fell into a profound 
slumber. In the morning she awoke in great distress 
from oppression at the lungs, and unable to speak ex 
cept in a whisper. The woman in the cabin, though 
wretchedly poor, had a kind heart, and made the suf 
fering stranger as comfortable as she could. Miss 
JSTealy, from her acquaintance with Indian life, had 
acquired a knowledge of diseases and of medicine, 
which now proved useful in her own case. She hap 
pened to have some medicines about her, which she 
directed the good woman how to prepare and adminis 
ter. A severe attack of illness finally yielded to the 
youthful vigor of her constitution, strengthened by 
endurance of all kinds of hardship, but it was some 
weeks before she was able to travel. 

In the fear of a recurrence of scurvy, from which 
she had previously suffered, she procured at a little 
settlement a few days journey from this cabin, a small 
quantity of snuff and other simple remedies prescribed 
by a traveller, spending almost the last penny she 
possessed for these and a little japanned snuff-box, 
which she presented afterwards to the lady from whom 



204 SUMMER EAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

I received this narration. In this settlement she also 
learned that a farmer who lived in the vicinity intend 
ed to remove with his family in the spring to the 
southwestern part of Virginia; and that his wife was 
in want of a "help" to spin, weave, and make up 
men s and boys clothing. This was good news in 
deed, and she lost no time in making application to be 
received in that capacity. 

During the winter our heroine labored assiduously, 
doing the washing of the family and milking the cows, 
in addition to the other employments for which her 
services had been engaged ; thus leaving herself not a 
moment of relief from toil till late bedtime, and re 
ceiving in return only fifty cents a week, and but a 
small part of her wages in money. When the family 
set out on their journey, she assisted in driving the 
stock, as well as in cooking and doing all kinds of 
work necessary in " camping out ; " performing almost 
the entire journey on foot, and being compensated for 
her laborious services with only food and lodging, and 
such protection as the company of those she attended 
afforded her. Yet, throughout her life, she seemed to 
remember that family with warm affection, and spoke 
of them with gratitude ; it was her first experi 
ence, since her doleful captivity, of human sympathy 
and home-feeling ; and her generous heart overflowed 
towards those who gave it : her labors to serve them 
being esteemed as nothing in the balance. 

When they reached the Susquehanna Eiver where 
she was to pay her own ferriage such having been 
the agreement she asked permission of the ferryman 



EXPLOIT AT THE FERRY. 205 

to paddle herself across in a small and leaky canoe 
lying on the shore near by. He consented, warning 
her, however, that it was unsafe ; but she was an ex 
cellent swimmer, and intent on saving her money, 
which she did, and crossed in safety. The people in 
the ferry-boat were less fortunate ; when half way 
across, one of the cows jumped overboard and swam 
back to shore. The Dutch farmer requested Mary to 
return with him and bring the animal over ; and she 
did so, getting her on board, holding her by the horn 
with the left hand, and thrusting the thumb and finger 
of her right into her nostrils ; thus keeping the cow 
quiet for a distance of nearly a mile. A modern belle 
would laugh at such an instance of usefulness : but 
our grandmothers were more practical, and would not 
have felt ashamed of it. Its happy consequences will 
soon be seen. 

"When the travellers arrived at their place of desti 
nation, Mary obtained employment for a few days in a 
family. It happened that a farmer by the name of 
Spears, who lived in the neighborhood, called in, and 
heard the girl s romantic history. His wife wanted 
some one to assist her in household duties, and Miss 
Nealy was recommended to the place ; she accepted 
the proposal to go at once, and, mounted behind her 
future father-in-law, rode to his house, where she re 
mained some time waiting to find some party that 
might be going to Tennessee, for her fears of being re 
captured by the Indians had grown stronger the far 
ther she travelled westward. 

We now turn to another scene in this "ower true 



206 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

tale." When her family had ascertained beyond 
doubt that she had been captured by the Indians, they 
gave up all hope of ever seeing her again. They 
grieved as for one dead ; but there was one whose 
sorrow was all too quickly banished ; the betrothed 
lover of Mary, who, judging that the smiles of a new 
love would be the best consolation for his loss, speedily 
transferred his vows to another comely maiden, and 
was by this time on the eve of marriage. It happened 
about this period that Mary s brother went on business 
into the interior of Kentucky. On the very night of 
his arrival, he fell in, at a rustic tavern, with several 
travellers, who were relating their different adventures 
after supper. One of them had come all the way from 
Pennsylvania, and described with graphic glee the 
scene of the crossing of the Susqueharma by the Dutch 
emigrant family, the escape of the cpw, and her recap 
ture and bringing over by the heroic young woman. 
That girl, he added, had been a captive among the 
Indians, and had escaped from them. To this account 
young Nealy listened with aroused attention. "Did 
you hear the young woman s name ? " he eagerly 
asked. "They called her Polly" answered the 
stranger, " but I heard no other." " Did you observe 
that she was left-handed ? " again the brother asked. 
"She certainly was" was the reply; "I noticed it 
both in pulling her canoe, and in holding the cow." 
No farther information could be given ; but this was 
enough. The brother had no doubt that this was in 
deed his long lost sister, and that her course had been 
directed homeward. And now, what was to be done ? 



THE MEETING RETURN HOME. 207 

He was convinced that no family would be likely to 
emigrate in a southwest direction in that time of peril ; 
she had no chance of an escort to return home ; and 
through the vast wilderness that intervened, how could 
an unprotected girl travel alone ? He determined, 
therefore, himself to set out ; go to the ferry on the 
Susquehanna, where the scene described was said to 
have taken place, and trace his sister thence, if possi 
ble. He set off accordingly, taking the precaution to 
make inquiry at every cabin, and of every person 
whom he met, lest he should pass her on the way. 
When in Virginia, he stopped one day to feed his 
horse, and make the usual inquiries at a farm-house, 
and was told that a young woman who had been in 
captivity among the Indians, and had recently come 
into the country, was living with a family six miles dis 
tant. JS T ealy lost not a moment ; but flinging the 
saddle on his horse before he had tasted his corn, rode 
off in the direction pointed out. Before he had reached 
the house, he met his sister. What pen can describe 
that meeting I * 

Mary made immediate preparations to return home, 
but suffered many hardships, and was exposed to many 
dangers on their way through the almost trackless 
wild. The howling of wolves, the screams of pan 
thers, and the low growl of bears were familiar sounds 
in her ears ; but nothing daunted her save the fearful 
thought of again falling into the hands of merciless 
savages. Even after her reunion with her family, 

* This noble brother died about five years ago, at his residence 
near Nashville, Tennessee. 



208 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

this terror so preyed on her mind that she had no 
peace, and her widowed mother yielded to her entrea 
ties, and removed to a more secure home in Kentucky. 

The story of Miss Nealy s return to Tennessee, 
and her strange adventures, was soon noised abroad, 
and her former lover, repenting his infidelity, came 
once more to prefer his claim to her favor. It may be 
conceived with what scorn she spurned the addresses 
of a man who had not only lacked the energy to at 
tempt her rescue from the Indians, and had soon for 
gotten her, but who was now crowning his perfidy by 
the basest falsehood towards the other fair one to whom 
his faith was pledged. 

Mary ISTealy was united in marriage to George 
Spears, on the 27th of February, 1785, at her new 
home in Lincoln County, Kentucky.* After her mar 
riage her mother returned with the rest of her family 
to Tennessee. Mrs. Spears and her husband continued 
to reside for two years near Carpenter s Station, in 
Lincoln County, and during the three succeeding 
years at or near Gray s Station, in Greene County, Ken 
tucky. While living here, it was her custom to ac 
company her husband to the field, sometimes in the 
capacity of guard, sometimes to help him hoe the corn ; 
and always carrying her children with her. On one 
occasion while thus occupied, they heard a whistle 
like the note of a wild turkey. One of their neigh 
bors, an old hunter, cautioned them against following 
the sound, which he knew to be made by an Indian, 
whom he resolved to ferret out. He accordingly crept 

* Date copied from Mrs. Spears family Bible. 



PEKIL FROM INDIANS. 209 

noiselessly along the ground, like one hunting the bird, 
till close to the spot whence the whistle came, when 
he fired, and an Indian fell. 

On one occasion strange sounds were heard close 
to the dwelling at night, and Mrs. Spears, looking 
through a " chink " in the cabin, saw the shadow of a 
man stealthily moving around the house. She awoke 
her husband ; he climbed the ladder to the loft, and 
putting his gun through an aperture in the roof, fired 
upon the savage. Five Indians started up and ran off; 
but he continued firing till the alarm was given at the 
fort, and aid was sent. A company of soldiers follow 
ed the trail for several miles, and judged the number 
of the savages to have been about fifty. While resid 
ing here, Mrs. Spears received intelligence of the mur 
der of one of her brothers by the Indians. 

Mr. Spears, who had no fear of them, was in the habit 
of going to the fort to try his skill in shooting at a 
target ; and when he did not return by dusk, his wife 
would leave the cabin and betake herself with the chil 
dren to the woods for safety, for her terror of lurking 
enemies whose cruelty she had so bitterly experienced, 
was very great. One night, having thus left her home, 
she was standing with her infant in her arms, under a 
widespreading tree, awaiting the return of her hus 
band, when she heard the shrill note of a screech-owl 
directly over her head, and fell to the ground as if 
shot. She often described, in after life, the mortifica 
tion she felt on recovering from her fright. In times 
of peculiar danger, she was accustomed to do sewing 
and washing for two young men at the fort, in return 



210 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

for their coming home every night with her husband, 
and lodging in the cabin. 

On another occasion when they had reason to be 
lieve a large body of Indians was in the neighbor 
hood, and were warned to leave the cabin without 
loss of time, Mrs. Spears hastily buried her dishes, and 
emptying out part of the feathers from her bed, put it 
on her horse, with such other articles of household 
service as she could carry, mounted, taking her child 
in her lap though within two weeks of her second 
confinement and assisted in driving away the stock. 
The alarm was given that the Indians were near and 
they must ride for their lives, and she urged her horse 
at full speed a mile and a half, with all her incum- 
brances. A party of soldiers was sent out from the 
fort to reconnoitre the enemy, and struck the trail of 
some forty savages, but did not venture to follow them 
more than a few miles. One day, a man named Fisher 
came from the fort to Mr. Spears field, to bring a 
message to him. On his return he was pursued by 
Indians, and shot down and scalped in the sight of 
Mrs. Spears, before a gun could be brought to bear on 
the fierce assailants. Such incidents kept our pio 
neers in a continual state of suspense and dread, and 
during the time they were living in the fort for greater 
safety, their condition was but little more comfortable. 
Their cattle were continually driven off, and their hunt 
ers, as well as those who ventured out to till the 
ground, murdered by stealthy foes; so that they suf 
fered terribly for want of provisions. While in the 
fort, Mrs. Spears heard of two more of her relations 



CHARACTER OF MRS. SPEARS. 211 

being killed by the Indians; five of her family in all 
falling victims to savage fury. 

The three oldest children of Mrs. Spears were 
born during those years of terror, when the border 
settlers suffered so severely. Mr. Spears was a man of 
intelligence and sincere piety ; he was a kind husband, 
and as they were blessed with health and competence, 
their home was a happy one. Mrs. Spears was gentle 
and amiable in her manners, and affectionate in her 
nature, with a warm and generous heart ; always mod 
est and yielding, except when sterner qualities were in 
requisition, when the strength and firmness of her na 
ture were apparent. She made no attempt at any 
time to divest herself of early habits, in conformity to 
the improvement of the time, or changing fashions. 
A carriage was always at her disposal, yet she prefer 
red riding on horseback when the journey was not too 
long ; and in travelling far used a large covered farm 
wagon. Always charitable to the poor, and liberal to 
all with whom she had dealings, her industry and sys 
tematic housewifery were admirable, and not a mo 
ment of her time was ever wasted. Besides being en 
gaged in weaving, sewing, and other domestic employ 
ments, she made salves, ointments, and decoctions con 
tinually for all the afflicted of her acquaintance. Her 
knowledge of medicine was made available to her 
friends and neighbors, and to the poor generally, gra 
tuitously ; while she accepted compensation from such 
as came from a distance and were able to offer it. It 
was a desire to do good which first induced her to un 
dertake the most laborious duties of a physician among 



212 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

her own sex, medical practitioners being very scarce 
in that region ; and her success soon made her so cel 
ebrated, that her aid was sought from every direction. 
One young man was sent forty or fifty miles to her for 
the cure of a white swelling. She became fond of 
practice, and continued to ride her circuit till a few 
months before her death. 

There were some incidents in her experience, even 
after the cessation of Indian hostilities, which are 
highly illustrative. One morning her husband went 
out a short distance, taking his gun, and bidding her 
to follow him with his knife, if she heard firing. Hear 
ing a report soon after, she ran with the knife in the 
direction of the sound, and heard soon after a second 
shot. Mr. Spears snatched the knife from her hands, 

and plunged it to the handle into a monstrous 

bear, " which," Mrs. Spears used to say, "had in its 
embrace our biggest and best sow. It was some time 
before the sow recovered her breath, as each shot 
caused the bear to hug the tighter ; though not a bone 
was broken." 

Mrs. Spears was fond of high-mettled horses and 
was accustomed to ride a very spirited one. Her hus 
band warned her that the animal was apt to run away ; 
but our heroine declared she would cure the propen 
sity, which she did one day, when the mare had run 
about a mile with her, by suddenly checking, so as to 
cause the animal to dash her head against the trunk of 
a beech tree by the roadside, while the fearless rider 
sprang off in time to save herself. At one time she 
was sent for in haste to attend a woman living on the 



KEMOVAL TO ILLINOIS. 213 

opposite side of Green river, several miles distant. 
Her own babe was too young to leave ; and she set off 
on horseback carrying it in her arms. Arriving at the 
river, she found that the ferry-boat had just pushed 
from shore. She called to the man to return, urging 
the necessity of the case, but the man replied that his 
load was too heavy. On this the spirited matron urg 
ed her mare into the water, swam her past the ferry 
boat, reached the opposite bank first, arid was in time 
to thank the ferryman for his humanity before his 
boat touched the landing. The child she carried on 
this occasion was accustomed to relate this anecdote, 
and its truth was confirmed by her old neighbors in 
Kentucky. 

Mr. and Mrs. Spears removed with their servants 
a negro boy and girl to Illinois in 1824. Their three 
surviving children, all of whom had families, accom 
panied them. All had prospered and were comfort 
able in their worldly circumstances. They settled at 
Clarie s Grove, in Menard County. The parents were 
blessed in their children, and had "godliness with 
contentment." Mrs. Spears solicitous care for her ser 
vants, in regard not only to bodily comfort, but moral 
and religious culture, equalled that she had bestowed 
on her own children, and it was returned by the most 
devoted affection and willing obedience. When the 
boy Jem became of age, his mistress gave him a 
liberal outfit, with liberty to depart if he chose to do 
so ; but he preferred remaining with her. By thrifty 
increase of his store, Jem was enabled afterwards to 
purchase both his parents, who belonged to a relative 



214 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

of Mrs. Spears, then residing in Missouri. They were 
redeemed by the dutiful son, and brought to Clarie s 
Grove. The sympathy and aid given by Jem s mis 
tress to this cherished project, may throw additional 
light on her most lovely and Christian character. 

At a very advanced age between eighty and 
ninety Mrs. Spears visited her brother in Tennessee. 
This brother in the time of the Indian war was riding 
in company with her mother when she was wounded 
by a shot from an Indian. He killed the assailant, 
but while attempting to place his mother again in the 
saddle, received a shot from another lurking savage. 
A man who accompanied them helped him to mount 
his horse, and the party made good their escape. On 
her way to visit this brother, Mrs. Spears travelled in 
a large covered wagon, and was accompanied by her 
grandson, a boy about fourteen years of age. They 
camped out every night. During one day Mrs. Spears 
had noticed a horseman pass them several times, and 
attentively mark, as sl^e thought, one of her best 
horses. Apprehensive of thievish intent, she had her 
bed laid that night on the ground, that her quick ear 
might hear the sound of approaching footsteps. 
In the dead silence of the night she heard the 
sound, and raising herself, with a loud voice demanded 
who was there ? The intruder retired without making 
any answer ; but in the space of an hour or two re 
turned with the same stealthy step, which was again 
detected by the watchful matron. Starting up, she 
repeated her question, and when no reply came, charged 
the man with his nefarious design, and threatened pun- 



MONTICELLO SEMINAKY. 215 

ishment if he dared to come again. The thief did not 
seem inclined to give up his prey, but came the third 
time on horseback. The matron, aware of his ap 
proach, prepared herself for him, and as he came near, 
suddenly sprang towards him, holding a large article 
of dress, which she flapped in his horse s face with 
such a report that the animal wheeled round in affright, 
and bounded swiftly out of her sight. Then she was 
uneasy lest the rider had been thrown and killed; till 
by laying her ear to the ground she could hear the 
regular receding tramp of the horse. 

Having been a widow fifteen years, Mrs. Spears 
died at her residence at Clarie s Grove, on the 26th 
January, 1852, surrounded by affectionate children 
and grandchildren, who still reverently cherish the 
memory of her virtues, and look to the example of her 
useful and religious life. The times of trial which 
nurtured such noble natures, by developing their 
strength, may never return in our powerful and pros 
perous country ; yet have we all work to do in the 
great battle of life, and not without lasting benefit may 
we contemplate the character of those heroic matrons 
who bore so much of the burden in our struggle for 
Independence, and whose influence was so controlling 
and extensive, though unacknowledged in history, 
which deals only with the actions of men. 

About four miles from Alton, in Madison County, 
stands the Monticello Female Seminary, one of the 
most celebrated in the Western country. It is a 
pleasant drive of sixteen miles from Bunker Hill, 
through varied scenery of prairie, oak opening, and 



216 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

broken country, accomplished by a carriage full of us, 
including the children, in little more than three hours. 
The light rains that marked the equinoctial had but 
just sufficed to lay the dust, without replenishing the 
numerous streams that had exhaled their being during 
the unprecedented drought. Every strip of timber- 
land had its deep dry channel, over which a bridge of 
logs here and there remained as if in mockery of things 
so evanescent as the running water which a few months 
since murmured beneath the overhanging foliage, and 
flashed in the sun between the grassy banks. Nearer 
the river, the country appeared more thickly settled, 
till at a single view the eye could take in a dozen or 
more farms on the extensive prairie, every farm-house 
garnished with its park-like plantation of trees; for 
hereabouts, where shade is rarely to be found, trees 
are set out around the humblest habitation. It is the 
squatter in the forest who cuts down every vestige of 
the wood within an arrow-shot of his dwelling so 
that " the sun can shine in nicely all day long, looking 
so improvement like." 

One could hardly find any where a country of more 
inviting aspect than that in the midst of which is 
situated the little village of Godfrey ; so named after 
Benjamin Godfrey, a prominent citizen, who fourteen 
or fifteen years since, selected on his land a site for 
the seminary, which he built at his own expense. 
This building is of stone, painted a light color, one 
hundred and ten by forty-four feet, and four stories 
high, and stands in the centre of about eight acres of 
highly cultivated ground. There is a garden tastefully 



EDUCATION OF WOMEN. 217 

arranged, a spacious lawn in front, laid out in walks, 
sprinkled with arbors and summer-houses, and orna 
mented with flower-beds and shrubbery. From the 
observatory on the top of the building a magnificent 
view can be obtained of an extensive sweep of country 
on every side ; the undulating prairie stretching for 
miles northward, with its smooth fields, its orchards 
and groves, and its neat homesteads ; a pleasing variety 
of woodland, meadow, and cultivated farms in other 
directions, a misty height in the distance being seen 
on the other side of the Mississippi. The surrounding 
region is among the earliest settled in the State, and 
more than thirty years have passed since its pioneers 
came to till the wild prairie- soil in the neighborhood. 

At Jacksonville is another Female Seminary of 
note, and also the "Illinois Female College." This 
State affords a useful example to others, and it would 
be well if public attention were more generally direct 
ed to the establishment and support of institutions for 
female education-, where the useful and higher branches 
of learning would be more effectively taught than in 
our flimsy, fashionable boarding-schools. It will be 
in vain for conventions to pass resolutions condemna 
tory of the public sentiment which consigns women to 
labor at unprofitable employments, excluding them 
from lucrative ones, as long as the general tone of 
female education is so low as it is. Some women, it is 
true, may be well educated enough to fill situations now 
appropriated by men ; but the generality are deficient, 
and the whole sex must be concluded incapable for 
the fault of the majority. A late " resolution," passed 
10 



218 SUMMER KAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

at Syracuse, complained that women could not be 
tried by a jury of their peers. I would ask the mem 
bers of that convention, which of them would be will 
ing to be tried, if accused, by a jury of women, unless 
it were one " packed " with those whose education was 
far above the ordinary standard ? The fact is no less 
lamentable than evident, that throughout the length 
and breadth of this land, with all its boasted advanta 
ges for the diffusion of knowledge, the education of 
women is, in general, so defective, that for all useful 
purposes it amounts to nothing. Even where brilliant 
superficial accomplishments are possessed, how fre 
quently do we see the mind uninformed, the faculties 
undeveloped, the tastes uncultivated ! With a better 
system of education, with the same advantages enjoyed 
by the other sex brought within the humblest means, 
what a change might be wrought 1 How many 
females might be saved from marriages of convenience, 
which in most cases lead to unhappiness, and enabled 
to impart such knowledge to their children, and im 
plant such principles in their breasts betimes, as should 
protect them against vicious allurements, and lead to a 
life of integrity and usefulness. 

The plan proposed by Miss Beecher ; of endowing 
institutions in which female teachers may fill the dif 
ferent departments, with such salaries as would make 
it an object for the best qualified to seek the employ 
ment, is an excellent one. Now the disproportion be 
tween the payment of male and female instructors is 
excessive and most unjust. A professor may have his 
two or three thousand a year, for his duty of two 



MENAGERIE. 219 

hours a day, in a seminary of learning, while one of 
the other sex, as well qualified to teach the same 
branches, could scarcely obtain three hundred by the 
devotion of her whole time. The consequence is that 
women never take up the profession of teaching unless 
compelled by painful necessity. These evils might be 
remedied in part by the liberal endowment of institu 
tions where women would be educated with a view to 
their devotion to special branches of study, and these 
must be under State patronage, for the want is too ex 
tensive to be supplied by individual contributions. 

We spent the day and night at the residence of 
one of the early settlers, a mile from Monticello, and 

dined on the following day at the house of Dr. B , 

who accompanied us in our visit to the Seminary. The 
little ones were very merry as we drove back to Bunker 
Hill, and the circle at Clay Cottage heard the narration 
of our adventures, including an " apple-bee," with an 
interest which the reader can in nowise share. 

The visit of a travelling menagerie at Bunker 
Hill caused an excitement through the country for 
miles around, scarcely equalled within the recollection 
of the " oldest inhabitant." At an early hour the vil 
lage was filled with visitors from every direction ; 
farmers of the better class, with their neat covered 
carriages and buggies, or lumber wagons furnished 
with split-bottom chairs and boards on springs ; and 
hordes of " suckers" from the cabins on the prairies 
far and near. "West Prairie," a kind of Alsatia to 
this region, poured forth its numbers, mail carriers left 
their budgets to take care of themselves, and the vil- 



220 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

lagers, great and small, turned out, notwithstanding 
that every housewife had more than her share of com 
pany to entertain at the noonday meal ; for it is a com 
mon practice to drive in wagon loads to the door of an 
acquaintance, and unceremoniously partake of any 
meal in preparation, without question as to the con 
venience of the person visited. A cousin of mine 
informed me she had twenty-two to dine with her un 
expectedly on that day, six or eight arriving after she 
had put on her bonnet and taken her children by the 
hand to lead them to the exhibition. The assemblage 
numbered two thousand or more, and thronged the 
circular tent erected for the performance of the animals, 
so that it was difficult to find a vacant space, till the 
great elephant was marched round the ring to clear the 
circle. It was curious to observe the predominant and 
peculiar Western aspect of the multitude, a sturdy, 
labor-hardened look of self-reliance, an air of indepen 
dent strength and will, appropriate to lords of the soil, 
indebted to themselves alone for their right, and intent 
on progress by their own might. This was observable 
even in the women, many of whom had infants in their 
arms, and were followed by two or three little ones. 
There was a sprinkling of the Irish physiognomy, but 
it bore a small proportion to the rest. It was intensely 
warm, and while I stood waving a huge fan for the 
benefit of four in our party, several requests were sent 
from different parts of the concourse "to borrow 
that ere fan." The show was ended early enough for 
an afternoon rendezvous, but few stayed to pay visits, 
and the roads in every direction were lined with 
wagons on the return, long before subset. 



BORROWING. 221 

The borrowing system is in full operation in these 
parts ; milk, cream, butter, and all articles for table 
use, as well as kitchen furniture, maintain a brisk cir 
culation through the community ; vegetables and fruits 
are regarded as common property ; the thrifty resident 
will have applications for his garden products before 
they are ripe for plucking, and if disposed to be liberal, 
will have no chance of tasting them himself. Orchards 
in apple-time are alive with a dense population of boys, 
armed with huge baskets to carry away the fragrant 
treasures ; what little they leave being devoured by 
the neighbors pigs. The owner is often obliged to 
ask as a favor permission to fill two or three barrels for 
his own winter use, and this must be done betimes. 
The same "free and easy" custom of appropriation 
prevails in the stores, where the country people who 
come in to lounge and smoke away an hour or two 
while waiting the arrival of the mail, always help 
themselves to such ephemera as apples, crackers and 
cheese, nuts or candies, filling their pockets to beguile 
the journey home. On the day of the menagerie, 
there was a crowd of wagons and horses around every 
shop in the village, making approach impossible, and 
I noticed that several barrels of biscuit and rosy apples 
which had been displayed* disappeared mysteriously 
before evening, while I ascertained by inquiry that 
the people never bought such things by the small 
quantity. As soon as the letter-bag is opened every 
curious farmer who has a mind, examines the letters, 
holding them to the light, and throwing them on the 
counter when his curiosity is satisfied. 



222 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

Another prominent feature in country life in this 
State, and almost every where at the West, is 
the difficulty in obtaining "help" in domestic ser 
vice. The daughters of the poorer class of farmers are 
needed at home, and have no inducement to live out be 
yond the procuring a little extra clothing occasionally 
by a few weeks labor, as a great favor, with some 
neighbor able to hire ; the Irish and Germans who 
emigrate to the country can obtain land on easy terms, 
and have a home of their own as speedily as they 
please ; and most of them are too much in love with 
the independence they see in all around them, to be 
willing to remain long in a subordinate condition. 
The consequence is, that the wives of most of the sub 
stantial freeholders are obliged to do without servants 
altogether ; and when they can be obtained, which is 
always with extreme difficulty, they are, as a rule, ig 
norant and inefficient. They have learned, too, to be 
jealous to a degree of any assumption of superiority 
qn x the part of their employers; for example, the in 
dignity of not being invited to the family table, is 
deeply resented ; or if the girl herself fail to notice 
the infringement on her dignity, her companions and 
acquaintances will give her no peace till it is com 
plained of, and her injured feelings are propitiated. Such 
housewives as have been fortunate enough to procure 
tolerable help it is literally help, for every domestic 
expects her mistress to work with her, and perform 
the most difficult portion of the labor live in conti 
nual fear of giving offence to those employed, and 
thereby provoking them to go away. The awe with 



223 



which the Venetian, in the days of the Secret Inqui 
sition, was accustomed to whisper of " those above," 
was hardly deeper than that expressed^ the subdued, 
fearful tone with which, glancing around to see that 
walls have not ears, the Western lady ventures to 
speak of her hired damsel. Insolence must be borne 
submissively, and she dares not reprove for a fault 
even of ignorance. The hard experience she has too 
frequently to undergo, in performing herself the whole 
labor of her household, burdened also in most cases 
with the care of a young family, has taught her to 
value highly the most imperfect assistance, and to 
make sacrifices of her own feelings to procure and re 
tain it. This state of things, I am told, is the most 
serious drawback on comfort in living at the West ; it 
is an evil bitterly felt, and likely to prevent, instead 
of fostering, the growth of kindly feeling between the 
different classes of settlers. 



224 SUMMER EAMBLES IN THE WEST. 



XIII. 



IF it be an era in one s life to be for the first time 

" Where the wild will of Mississippi s tide 
Has dashed him on the sawyer " 

the first sight of the boiling, turbid Missouri, and the 
mingling of its waters with those of the Father of Ei- 
vers, is not less so. Here the dark, clear stream which 
has swept through its vast primeval solitudes thou 
sands of miles southward, suddenly loses its pure ap 
pearance, and, as if angry at the change, pursues its 
way with accelerated rapidity, with current deep and 
resistless, gathering strength as it sweeps onward to 
the ocean that receives its mighty tribute. 

On the morning of the 28th September, I left 
Bunker Hill, accompanied by three of the cousins who 
bear my name, arrived at the house of Eev. Mr. L., in 
Middle Alton,-about noon, and in the afternoon drove 
to the "Lower Town." One of the finest views to be 
had of the winding Mississippi, is presented from the 
heights of Alton. Sad it was to see the noble river so 
shorn of its fair proportions a waste of sand on either 
side, the shrunken stream pursuing its course with di- 



MISSOURI RIVER, 225 

minished speed in the midst. One would think the 
term " dusty rivers " a figure of speech ; yet the course 
of this may often be tracked by the clouds of dust 
raised by the wind from the sandbanks in the channel 
exposed at low water. 

The next morning, leaving the house of our vene 
rable relation, we drove to the levee a little before 
nine. The town of Alton, picturesquely situated on the 
heights, showed very imposingly from the river for 
many miles down. The Missouri at its mouth was 
much narrower than I expected ; and a passenger ob 
served that he had ascended it for three thousand 
miles, and found it of the same or greater width. The 
sand-wastes on either side showed that we saw no 
more than half the stream as it usually is. Its muddy 
waters, as they poured into the Mississippi, formed a 
contrast with the clear stream, the line of division be 
ing perfectly defined ; gradually it encroached further 
and further, till the purer portion was driven into 
narrow limits on the eastern side, which it main 
tains as its own even to St. Louis. The quality 
of this muddiness is remarkable, and the thickest is 
brought to the surface by the whirlpools and eddies ; 
so that it seems an opaque, swiftly moving mass, on 
which the shadow of the line of curling smoke looks 
like a clear rift between two shifting bodies of yellow 
sand. The gully -like banks, which are overflowed at 
high water, show the deposits of sand four or five feet 
deep on the natural soil, and are covered with a growth 
of stunted willows. The cotton- wood that grows 
thickly on the alluvial bottoms, is said to increase 
10* 



226 SUMMER KAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

with almost tropical rapidity, and is used for steam 
boat firewood. The shallowness of the water is seen 
in the wake the boat leaves on the bosom of the angry 
giant ; and a snag here and there reveals the terror of 
the rivermen of the West. 

The view of the "Mound City," as St. Louis is 
called, is extremely fine. Without preparation in vil 
las or villages, you see on the right, throned like a 
queen, the forest-girdled mart of merchandise and bu 
siness the New- York of the West. Its steeples and 
domes, its ranges of buildings rising one above an 
other, its levee thronged with carts and wagons and 
piled with merchandise, and its crowded streets, form 
a strange contrast to the wild and romantic view fur 
ther down the river, with the blue hills bounding the 
sight. The long range of steamboats their forest of 
tall pipes lining the shore for miles, discloses the secret 
of this commercial prosperity and activity. "Not a 
squatter builds his cabin on the Yellow Stone or the 
Platte ; not a hunter or trapper takes his prey on all 
the broad lands that skirt the base of the Eocky Moun 
tains, but he is contributing to the growth of this em 
porium." The streets of the city are regularly laid out, 
well built up, and tolerably cleanly. The number of 
trees, and the dull, stained appearance of the brick 
buildings, give it the aspect of a Southern city, and 
there is a Southern twang in the speech of its fair 
inhabitants. The Planter s House, centrally situat 
ed in the goodliest part of the city, is pronounced 
the bestby the universal suffrage of citizens and vis 
itors. 



SPIRITUAL MANIFESTATIONS. 227 

Some members of a highly respectable family re 
siding in this hotel, were said to have been, for the last 
three or four months, participants and witnesses of 
many marvels in the way of " spiritual manifestations." 
The fame of these mysterious appearances had gone 
over the whole city, and produced no little excitement 
on the subject, and the sensation had extended to 
neighboring towns. 

My cousin and I were invited one evening to wit 
ness some of the phenomena ; but saw nothing con 
vincing. Yiewing them, if they really exist, simply 
as dependent on the established laws of nature, a bet 
ter knowledge of which might be made available to 
useful purposes, I should think the subject worth the 
investigation of philosophical minds. If proved, on 
the other hand, to be produced by supernatural agency, 
no one who acknowledges the authority of the Bible 
will pay attention to them, or withhold his censure. 
Intercourse with "familiar spirits" was punished with 
death under the Mosaic laws ; it may fairly be con 
sidered as included in the " sorcery" denounced in the 
New Testament ; and every such unhallowed attempt, 
by unhallowed means, to obtain knowledge not reveal 
ed in the Book of Truth, must lead to evil results. 

The style of dress in vogue among the ladies ap 
pears to be the most splendid, without much regard to 
season. When New-York dames would wear bareges 
and muslins, those of St. Louis prefer rich silks, bro 
cades, etc. One afternoon a friend conducted rue to 
the top of the Court-House, from which a magnificent 
view is obtained. The course of the Mississippi may 



228 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

be seen with its yellow sand-banks and wide bordering 
of alluvial bottom, and far to the east one or two small 
lakes are visible, and a range of bluffs forms the boun 
dary of the waters at an unusual flood. 

One of the curiosities of the place, and a fair speci 
men of the class of steamers preparing to accommodate 
the increase of travel to and from New-Orleans, was 
the "Charles Belcher," waiting a rise in the waters to 
go out. Her length " from stem to stern" is two hun 
dred and ninety feet, her width seventy-two, and her 
dining and ladies cabins are as splendid as rich up 
holstery and painting can make them. The superb 
carpets are soft as velvet, and the divans, couches and 
easy chairs are as luxurious. The butler s and kitchen 
apartments are a curiosity for convenience and adap 
tation, as is the steerage, furnished with state-rooms 
for sixty-four persons, where emigrant families, per 
forming the journey for two dollars, can be as secluded 
as in the upper cabins for twenty-five. There are 
state-rooms above for one hundred and forty persons 
and more can be taken in an emergency. The crown 
ing glory of the boat is her bath-rooms, which are ele 
gantly fitted up and provided with hot and cold water 
and shower baths. When we remarked that these 
were an unspeakable convenience, the captain said he 
would wager that they w:&gt;uld be scarcely used during 
the season, and mentioned that the commander of one 
of the Louisville packets which had bath-rooms, had 
assured him that no lady and only four gentlemen had 
ever taken a bath on board since the boat had been 
built. This confirms what I have already observed 



PUNCTUALITY OF BOATS. 229 

of the hydrophobia common among American trav 
ellers. 

The want of punctuality in the starting and arrival 
of boats we have already had occasion to remark. 
Here, as well as further up the river, it is common to 
advertise an intended departure several hours and even 
days in advance of the real time, and passengers who 
have gone on board with the expectation of being off 
directly, often have to wait till their patience is ex 
hausted. " How soon does the boat leave ? " asked one 
in a hurry of a captain of a steamer going to New- 
Orleans. " In five minutes," was the brisk reply. "I 
am sorry for that," rejoined the other, "as I hoped to 
take passage with you ; I cannot go before to-morrow." 
" All right," responded the official, "we shall not get 
off till the day after." Even the packets which ply 
every day up and down the river, often vary some 
hours from their appointed time. In view of this cus 
tom, it was a thunder-stroke to find the new steam 
boat " Cornelia," in which our party expected to go up 
the river, had started just one minute he/ore her time, 
carrying off the luggage previously sent on board. 
The telegraph, the usual resort in such cases, conveyed 
directions to Mr. Bliss, the proprietor of the Franklin 
House in Alton, who forthwith secured and preserved 
it. The swift and beautiful Altona brought us up in 
the evening, in company with a bridal party, and all 
found a cheerful welcome and a brilliant reception at 
the Franklin. 

The cars for Springfield leave Alton at eleven 
o clock in the morning, giving time for the arrival of 



230 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

the boat from St. Louis. This new railroad is in ex 
cellent order, and provided with elegant and commo 
dious cars. We had little more than an hour s travel 
before the train stopped at a station called Shipman, 
where we had expected to find the germ of a village, 
but we looked in vain for any inhabited dwelling. 
In three minutes the cars had rolled away in thunder, 
leaving us two ladies and a child somewhat sur 
prised to find ourselves beside our pile of luggage, on 
the wide, waste prairie an unfinished tank-house on 
one side, an empty building on the other. Seeing an 
old man at work not far off, I went to ask informa 
tion ; but he was deaf as the post he was planting. 
My companion had better luck with a farmer who 
chanced to pass within sight, and who, as soon as 
he learned our plight, went to "gear up" offering 
to take us in his farm-wagon wherever we would. A 
mile distant stood the residence of a friend, Captain 

G , and we were soon set down, luggage and all, 

before his gate our courteous farmer, with true 
Western kindliness, refusing to accept any reward for 
his trouble in bringing us. The traveller in the West 
continually meets with such instances of disinterested 
kindness, proffered wherever it is needed, without the 
least ostentation. 

Captain G is one of the pioneers of this sec 
tion, and his house stands on the open prairie, em 
bowered in a plantation of shade-trees, his broad, rich 
fields, under the best cultivation, presenting the ideal 
of an excellent farm. After a few hours spent pleas 
antly with his charming daughters, his carriage was 



SPRINGFIELD. 281 

ready to convey us to Banker Hill, where our arrival 
was warmly welcomed by affectionate relatives. 

On the sixth of October we bade adieu, to this 
pleasant village and its inhabitants, and taking the 
cars at Shipman, in three or four hours were in 
Springfield, the capital of Illinois. This town, con 
taining about seven thousand inhabitants, is regularly 
laid out on the bosom of an extensive prairie, and oc 
cupies space enough for a large city. The streets a re 
straight and broad, but the houses generally low, 
small, and scattered. There are raised sidewalks and 
crossings, quite necessary in the condition of the un- 
paved streets after a rain the thick black mud being 
absolutely terrific to the inexperienced pedestrian. 
The capitol and public buildings around the central 
square are solid and imposing. There are several 
hotels, of which the City Hotel is the most popular, 
and enjoys a wide reputation for the excellence of its 
table. The proprietor, Mr. Johnson, is a genuine 
specimen of the Western landlord, enterprising, libe 
ral, and energetic in his superintendence of every de 
partment. The occurrence of a masonic celebration, 
and a projected fair, had brought a large concourse of 
country people to the place, and at every meal both 
stratagem and force were necessary to guard the quiet 
inmates of the house from the rush of a tumultuous 
crowd, every man of which scrambled in and de 
voured what was before him, as if life, with all its 
blessings, depended on his dispatching the repast in 
two minutes and three quarters. 

A trunk belonging to me was here discovered to 



232 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

be out of repair, and the town was traversed in a vain 
search for a locksmith. A hardware storekeeper sent 
a couple of boys in the evening to mend it, who, on 
being offered payment, declined it, saying that "the 
boss had forbidden them to receive any thing; it was 
an accident, &c." another instance of the unostenta 
tious courtesy so common in the country. Some one 
has asked a definition of the differences between 
Southern and Western chivalry. A chief one is 
this: at the South, this kindly and liberal spirit is 
peculiar to the more cultivated classes of society ; the 
lower I mean white people are degraded and self 
ish, with few exceptions. The southern gentleman 
will throw open his house to the traveller, and enter 
tain him with liberal hospitality; the poor " sand- 
hiller " or "sucker " is farther removed than the negro 
from such a footing of sociability, and proffers no 
civilities. At the West, on the other, hand, the spirit 
of freedom and independence is universally diffused, 
and overflows in cordial good will towards the 
stranger ; the laborer without a coat will tender you, 
if you stand in need, the hospitalities of his mud 
cabin with as frank a grace as if he were lord of a 
manor, and scorn the thought of remuneration. 

There is a stage running from Springfield to 
Peoria, but the necessity of night travelling, and the 
horrible state of the roads, made this seem a formida 
ble undertaking. The knowledge that a lady dreaded 
this seventy miles journey, brought the liberal offer 
of a private carriage, tendered gratuitously for the 
trip, through Mr. Johnson, which was declined, of 



JACKSONVILLE NAPLES. 283 

course, but with, a grateful memory of the kindness. 
We took the morning train westward to Naples, to 
meet the boats ascending the Illinois Eiver. This 
railroad passes, like the other, through a continuous 
extent of prairie, varied now and then .by a strip of 
timber, with its running stream. By this time, I must 
own to being weary of prairiedom; those vast un 
dulating plains look beautiful when driving rapidly 
over them, or when alternated with forest ; but there 
is something depressing in an unvaried succession of 
the same monotonous features of scenery, and I longed 
already for the exhilarating aspect of wooded moun 
tain, lake and river. 

Jacksonville, a flourishing town upon this route, 
is noted for its Female Seminary and College. It is 
about half as large as Springfield, and is a very pretty 
place. Passing on, we found less uncultivated prairie, 
and considerable tracts of marsh land. Naples, fifteen 
miles from Jacksonville, is a small place lying on the 
Illinois Eiver, showing a number of scattered, dirty 
houses, looking dreary enough in the gray, rainy at 
mosphere, and the waste of dark, deep mud in which 
they stand ; it might pass, in truth, for the capital of 
the uninhabitable globe ! The river view, neverthe 
less, with its wooded shores and islands, is a fine one. 
The almost desert solitude of the hotel contrasted 
oddly enough with the scene of the previous day ; we 
could get sight of neither landlord nor servants, and 
while waiting for the boat, the hours passed wearily. 
When evening came with no nearer prospect of re 
lief, we hailed the first appearance of a woman, who 



234 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

appeared to be the landlady, and asked to be shown 
to sleeping apartments. She led the way to one very 
scantily furnished with a single chair and narrow bed, 
and when it was submitted that two ladies could not 
well occupy such premises together, she replied, with 
much tartness, that she had never heard of such fas 
tidiousness, and asked my companion if she did not 
feel offended by my unwillingness to share a bed with 
her ? My audacity being followed by a timid request 
for water, the woman thrust her hand into the pitcher, 
and having ascertained that there was nearly a pint 
(enough for any two reasonable persons), she darted a 
fierce look, as much as to say, "Dare you jest with 
me ? " which deprived me of courage to venture a 
suggestion that another towel might be desirable. A 
request for clean sheets would in all likelihood have 
been followed by a buffet ; the more prudent course, 
therefore, was to submit quietly. The night passed 
in restless expectation of the steamboat bell ; and as 
the gray dawn was breaking, its welcome sound broke 
on. the humid air, followed by a vigorous knock at the 
door, and the announcement that the boat was ready 
at the wharf. It was with gladdened hearts that we 
found ourselves on board the "Summit," and plough 
ing our way up the river at the very moderate rate 
necessary at the low stage of water. The most 
expeditious, easiest, and cheapest route from St. Louis 
to Chicago, is by these packets up the Illinois River. 
At an ordinary stage of water, the trip is made in two 
days to La Salle, whence a railway communication is 
now complete to Chicago. 



ILLINOIS RIVER PEORIA. 235 

The shores of the Illinois are generally flat and cover 
ed with woods frequently tall and luxuriant as the 
oak groves of Michigan. The steep banks, seven or 
eight feet above the present level of the water, show 
their course at high flood. The site of Beardstown is 
flat ; the town of Pekin occupies ground much higher, 
and cannot be seen to advantage from the river. A 
large, brick hotel, surmounted by a tower-like obser 
vatory, was invitingly conspicuous, and we longed to 
obtain the view that must be commanded from such a 
height ; but the rain forbade any attempt to walk up 
the banks to the building. 

Peoria is a large and handsome town, with about 
seven thousand inhabitants, and seems to be a place of 
active business, its situation giving it every advantage 
for growth and prosperity. The ground ascends in a 
gentle slope from the river to a considerable elevation, 
the town lying on the slope and crowning the height. 
. The Illinois here expands into a lake seventeen miles 
in length, and from half a mile to a mile and a half 
wide. The banks are bold and in some places precipr 
to us, and one point, where a massive range of rock rises 
from the stream as it takes a bend, is very romantic. 
A stationary light here warns night voyagers of peril. 
The scenery becomes more varied as we proceed ; hills 
are seen in the distance, and shadowy groves of stately 
trees, beginning to put on the gorgeous livery of 
autumn, were a feast for the lover of nature s beauty- 

The town of Peru is situated on the top of a bluff, 
reached by a steep ascent from the river. La Salle, a 
mile or so distant, also occupies an elevated site. The 



236 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

mud was formidable, but we succeeded in gaining the 
height, which commands an extensive view of the 
river, marsh-land, and surrounding country. Many 
of the passengers waited on board the u Summit" for 
the evening packet to Chicago, and an excellent dinner 
was prepared for them all, for which payment was 
refused ; the good captain seemed to take pleasure in 
hospitably entertaining them, and that without the 
least ostentation of liberality, but as a matter of course. 
The packet boat was a miniature craft, but scrupu 
lously clean. It was curious to see how every 
square inch of it was put to use, and the way the pas 
sengers were obliged to " stand around," while the 
shelves were put up for their sleeping accommodation, 
was " a caution." We reached Chicago in the after 
noon, and after a pleasant evening spent at Judge 

W s, took places for a night ride in the spacious 

cars of the Michigan Central Kailroad. 

We found the climate of the lakes rather bracing 
after the soft temperature of Southern Illinois. Yet 
emigration northward was still rife; an acquaintance 
had just set off to locate land in Minnesota ; and it was 
with a feeling of envy that we heard of the rivers of 
the territory being in navigable order, affording oppor 
tunities for excursions impossible to us in the heats of 
August. 

We were told afterwards that the descriptive letters 
published in the Tribune, had induced hundreds to 
visit those regions. They found, doubtless, that the 
half had not been told them. How could it be in so 
brief a sojourn? For the information of those who 



ROUTE TO MINNESOTA. 237 

have solicited it, I would add, that the most comfort 
able route from New- York is by the Albany and Buf 
falo Kailroad, and Michigan Central Eailroad to Chi 
cago ; thence to Galena and up the Mississippi ; and 
that the expense is from twenty-five to twenty-eight 
dollars from the city of New-York to St. Paul. 



238 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST, 



XIV. 



DURING the last season the talk of fashionable tourists 
in Ohio and Michigan, was chiefly of the magnificent 
scenery and bracing climate of Lake Superior. Every 
summer will bring numbers of settlers, and it will not 
be long before thriving towns will take the place of 
the new settlements embraced in the arms of the pri 
meval forest. The early history of this portion of our 
country has singular romance. More than two hun 
dred years ago, the Jesuits of Canada first took steps 
to explore the country bordering the North American 
Lakes, under the auspices of Count Frontenac. In 
1641, Eaymfault and Jaques went in a bark canoe to 
Saut Ste. Marie, where they found Indian villages 
with a considerable number of inhabitants, the abun 
dance of whitefish having made this the chosen resort 
of the Chippewas for centuries. They here heard of 
the lake beyond, and of grassy plains westward, 
where ran herds of deer and buffaloes, and where 
dwelt the warlike Sioux. In 1660, Kend Mesnard, in 
his canoe, reached the head of Keweenaw Bay, which 
he called St. Teresa, and was lost in the woods. 
Claude Allouez, six years later, entered this lake, then 
sacrificed to as a divinity by the savages, and landed 



LAKE SUPEKIOR ST. GLAIR. 239 

at Chaquamegon (La Pointe), where he built a chapel 
and lived two years ; in the mean time visiting Fond 
du Lac, where he heard of the Mississippi. La Hon- 
tan called this region "the fag-end of the world," and 
the lake was described by him as "an ocean in a 
storm sculptured in granite," so striking was the 
aspect of its towering rocks, deep ravines and giant 
crags, seemingly wrenched from their places by some 
violent convulsion of nature. About this time the 
southern shore of Superior, toward its western ex 
tremity, was the central region of Indian influence 
and intelligence. Here was the seat of power for the 
Chippewas ; and here, tradition says, was burning that 
sacred fire whose extinction foretold some great 
calamity for the nation. The ceremonies attending 
its preservation by appointed guardians, are said to be 
remembered in Indian tradition. 

The scenery along Lake Erie differs entirely from 
that on the Atlantic frontier. Passing up Detroit River, 
the view of the city and islands sleeping calmly on the 
waters, with the sunlit river and the distant expansion 
into Lake St. Glair, form a lovely picture. The city 
is lost behind the woods as you enter on the broad 
calm sheet of this fairy lake, passing, in a few hours, 
into St. Clair River, where the character of the scenery 
changes, losing its aspect of cultivation and populous 
life, but gaining in interest as the shores become 
bolder, the islands more thickly wooded, and the 
clustering thickets on the banks darker and more im 
pervious. Approaching Lake Huron, the scenery 
grows still wilder ; uplands partially cultivated rise 



240 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

from the river, and further back lies a line of dense 
forest; here aud there is an island with clumps of 
trees and marshy shore, and you will continue to 
admire the brilliant shades of purple and green pecu 
liar to these waters. Hereabouts is seen a Methodist 
missionary station on the British side, its white chapel 
and neat houses embowered in trees, and set off by 
the foil of an ancient wind-mill overgrown with 
creepers ; at intervals an Indian wigwam appears, and 
now and then a bark canoe shooting out from the shelter 
of bushes, or moored on the beach, with its load of 
baskets, blankets, children, and squaws, in their coarse, 
dark clothing. 

At the foot of Lake Huron, Fort Gratiot, compact 
against a ground of woods, with, its white pickets, 
barracks, and tall flag-staff, commands the entrance 
into the upper lakes. The headlands and point with 
its light-house, the islands in the distance, and the long 
sweep of Lake Huron, complete the picture. The 
alluvial shore on the left is covered with pine, poplar, 
beech, hemlock, etc., skirted with a wide beach of sand. 
White Kock is said to have been an ancient place of 
Indian sacrifice, and is still consecrated by their super 
stition. It was early in the morning when we lay 
among the green islands of Thunder Bay some partly 
covered with ragged foliage, the light-house and a few 
neat dwellings prominent on the nearest bank, and the 
long sandy shores sprinkled with fishers huts and 
shanties. A crimson line on the edge of the horizon 
grew brighter, and presently the great sun lifted him 
self from the bosom of the deep, sending a radiant 



MACKINAW. 241 

flush over the waste of waves and the woods on the 
distant isles. 

The Island of Mackinaw has been called "the dia 
dem on the brow of the North Western lakes," and 
its historical associations are extremely interesting. 
Its highest elevation is about three hundred feet above 
the level of the lake. From the water a fine view is 
presented of the old trading town, the heights with 
their straggling growth of trees, and the white walls 
and buildings of the fort. The rampart-like shore is 
rugged and inaccessible ; and in sailing round the 
island, the shadows of overhanging cliffs, the masses 
of fallen rock, the deep caves, towering arches, and 
rock-based columns, with green isles dotting the cres 
cent bay, and the straits and view of Lake Michigan 
in the distance, present scenes of grandeur and beauty. 
This is the classic ground of Indian mythology. The 
great curiosity of the island is the celebrated Arched 
Rock, a natural bridge thrown over the precipice, its 
grand arch overstriding fragments of rock heaped in 
the wildest confusion, and supported by gigantic 
abutments rising a hundred and forty feet from the 
water. The Sugarloaf Eock, a natural cone rising 
thirty feet from the hill, and the Skull Bock, a lofty, 
insulated mass, with a cavern at its base, are also 
noticed by visitors. 

St. Mary s River is the paradise of beautiful islands, 
thousands of which lie in its different channels ; the soft 
line of shore and drooping foliage and rocky headlands 
are doubled in the clear mirror, and now a bold shore 
dark with overhanging woods, appears ; now you pass 
11 



242 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

between islands fringed with evergreens, or alongside 
rocky uplands crowned with a straggling forest growth ; 
shooting across smooth bays or along narrow straits, 
where abrupt turnings disclose new views of the wild 
and beautiful ; the hills swelling gradually into loftier 
heights, till the Granite mountains rival in startling 
beauty, the higher range at the base of -which the 
lordly Hudson takes his way. A bright sheet, called 
" Echo -Lake," lies embosomed among rugged heights 
in the distance. The river banks and island shores 
showed, in 1851, rough clearings at intervals, with 
here and there a missionary station, an Indian encamp 
ment, a log hut, or pioneer cabin. In the dark im 
penetrable woods, the tall pines, firs, spruce, and tam- 
arac mingle their sombre green with trees of deciduous 
foliage, giving a rich variety to the forest verdure. 

A few more windings among the fairy isles, and 
" the Saut" is in view on the left shore, the tall pick 
ets and block houses of its fort conspicuous ; its neat 
white houses and stores below, and on the right the 
foaming rapids. On the point, covered with huge boul 
ders, is a small cluster of Chippewa wigwams, the occu 
pants of which live by fishing. If it is not the hour for 
sport, the men may be seen lying on their mats out 
side, or mending their nets, or weaving mats, or smok 
ing with the placid enjoyment of the " dolce far niente," 
remarkable in the race. The interior of the wigwams 
shows a primitive life ; the ground is strewn with hem 
lock boughs by way of carpet, the fire built in the 
centre, and the kettle over it, hanging from a horizon 
tal pole supported by two cross-poles containing fish 



INDIAN LIFE FISHING IN THE EAPIDS. 243 

or other materials for the evening repast. Around 
the sides is a platform two or three feet broad, raised 
a few inches from the ground, and spread with mats, 
quilts, and various articles of clothing, serving the sa 
vages for seats and beds, their feet stretched to the fire 
as they lie in a circle at night. In the corners are 
swung the pappooses in their tiny bark hammocks, or 
strapped to the boards on which their mammas usually 
carry them ; their nooks shared by pet domestic fowls, 
dogs, or some tamed bird or animal of the forest. The 
spaces around the bark walls are strung with dried 
fruits, roots, and every variety of utensil or apparel, 
all well cured by the smoke, not more than half of 
which finds its way through the aperture in the roof. 
These wigwams, built in an hour or two, are the habi 
tations of Chippewa families in the summer ; in the 
winter they retire to log huts in the interior. Some 
of them are picturesquely located on the islands scat 
tered among the rapids, on the rocky shore of which, 
about sunset, the squaws may be seen cleaning the 
whiten" sh just caught. I persuaded a chief whose 
cabin stands at the foot of the rapids to take me in his 
canoe. Away darted the light birchen craft into the 
very midst of the angry whitecaps, dexterously avoid 
ing the rocks ; the Indian in the stern directing its 
course with a paddle, while the one standing in the 
bow used a light setting-pole to push the bark up 
the sweeping current. Presently the fish are seen 
struggling to force their way up ; the fisherman 
drops his pole quickly, and seizing his scoop-net, 
which is fastened to the end of another, drops it in the 



2-M SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

water a few feet ahead, and while the canoe runs back, 
sweeping downward, he captures the unwary prey ; 
sometimes lifting several at once into the canoe. 

A still more exciting adventure is going over the 
rapids in a canoe. Starting from the foot with Indian 
or French boatmen, the bark canoe is .pushed up the 
swift current, winding its way among the foam- lashed 
boulders in the midst of the bounding, rushing, roar 
ing waters, dazzling the eyes with the gleam of sun 
shine on their snowy crests, and stunning the ear with 
the voice of many surges. The slightest failure of 
strength or skill on the part of the boatmen would be 
the destruction of the vessel and its voyagers ; but 
propelled by experienced hands, the feather-light craft 
leaps upward and onward,- spurning the whirling 
eddies, and quivering on the foaming billows, till the 
last shoot is passed and it floats on the calm surface 
where the river bends its glassy breast to take the first 
leap. Turning as by an instinctive impulse, the canoe 
enters the deeper channel, where the heavier current 
sweeps furiously downward over buried rocks. By 
successive leaps, bounding over the billows flung back 
by the mighty rush of the waters, the bark is swept 
along with breathless speed, estimated by the rapidity 
with which it flies past the shores and rocky islets, and 
the moment of time in which the descent of three 
quarters of a mile is gone over. 

In the village of Saut Ste. Marie there are two 
principal hotels and several churches. Sermons are 
frequently preached at the Mission to the Indians 
through the aid of an interpreter, though a large pro- 



SCENERY OF LAKE SUPERIOR. 245 

portion of the savages are Catholics. The interruption 
of the rapid cuts off Lake Superior from continuous 
navigation; the portage is about three quarters of a 
mile, and is traversed by a railroad over which vessels 
and freight are conveyed. 

The Alpine scenery of Lake Superior has been ad 
mired by many visitors, and its remarkable coast de 
scribed by several geologists, but it has been associated 
chiefly with the mineral wealth of the country on its 
borders. To the mere rambler, until recently, it has 
loomed afar off as an unknown region, no white sail 
seen on its vast expanse; the snowy seagull alone, 
starting from her nest on some rocky isle, wheeled over 
its surface, or the canoe of the savage darted from its 
sheltered coves ; its shores one unbroken forest, and 
the imagination of Indian mythology appropriating 
its shadowy islands for an Elysium of rest. The pass 
by which its waters are poured into St. Mary s Kiver 
is guarded by lofty and precipitous bluffs on either 
side, covered with a growth of tall pines these peaks, 
like the pillars of Hercules, forming a grand entrance 
into the lake. On the north the bold range of " Gros 
Cape" may be seen ; on the south the promontory of 
Cape Iroquois, noted in ancient tradition as the locality 
of an Indian battle. The outlet of the lake extends 
several miles, and is sprinkled with green and lovely 
islands, around whose long, pebbly shores the vessel 
wound, passing numerous bays and indentations where 
slumber bright islets, and in the distance the conical 
peaks beyond Whitefish Point, a bleak, sandy penin 
sula, extend far into the waters. Wagishkee, fami- 



246 SUMMER KAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

liarly Waishkee Bay, was named after a chief who 
cultivated fields on its borders. 

The great sand-dunes of this lake, called Grandes 
"Sables, have attracted attention as unique objects of 
American scenery. These form a range for some four 
miles, of vast heaps of sand-drift, rising like a lofty struc 
ture of marble to the height of two hundred and fifty or 
three hundred feet, their summits capped with loose 
drifts. No tree or shrub grows on the face of this pre 
cipice, and only a few scanty evergreens here and there 
overtop the bleak and denuded heights. Mr. Schoolcraft 
says these sandcliffs were imagined by Indian super 
stition to be a vast palace inhabited by powerful spirits 
or necromancers, who had only to thrust their hands 
through the windows to catch fish. The savages also 
pointed out on the sands the tracks of their fairies. As 
cending the face of the precipice, a singular and impos 
ing view is obtained from the summit. For many miles 
extends the waste of sand, an herbless desert ; a " north 
ern Sahara," rising into lofty cones, sweeping in grace 
ful curves, hurled into eddying hollows, or spread out in 
broad valleys. The tops of half buried pines are seen 
here and there, barkless and ragged, and worn by 
whirling drifts, like the columns of some ancient tem 
ple. The .surface of the sand is hard as a floor, and 
strewn with pebbles polished by attrition. Two miles 
from the coast, behind this desert tract, timber is 
found, and you may see a small lake far above the 
level of Superior, its wild and sylvan shores adorn 
ed with a rich growth of oaks and maple on one 
side, while the dunes of shifting sand stretch away 



PICTURED ROCKS. 247 

on the other in a leafless waste, like immense snow 
drifts, in the midst of which the traveller seems walk 
ing over the undulating billows of ocean swelling to 
vast height, or looks down into deep basins. The 
scene has been likened to a storm among the Alps. 

Grand Island^ extensive and rock-bound, next ap 
pears, and the scenery becomes more varied, the bold 
shores rising to hills wooded with a thick growth of 
beech, birch and maple, mingled with the spruce, and 
conical fir trees. A story current hereabouts, of a 
Chippewa war party, may illustrate Indian devotion. 
Thirteen warriors suddenly encountered a party of 
Sioux ten times their number. The latter were inclin 
ed to a truce, but the Chippewas insisted on fighting, 
and were killed, after having slain twice as many of 
their enemies; the youngest of them, who had been 
directed to stand on a neighboring height, see the re 
sult, and carry the news to their tribe, being the only 
survivor. 

The world may fairly be challenged for so magni 
ficent a display of elevated coast, with such varied 
forms of architectural ruins bathing their massive and 
columnar fronts in the clear waters, as is presented in 
the Pictured Bocks. For some ten miles along the 
shore, these towering masses of sandstone rise in start 
ling grandeur from the lake, sometimes to the height 
of three hundred feat, their surfaces exhibiting a gor 
geous coloring of various hues, and forming an unri 
valled panorama of precipices and caverns, majestic 
arches, towers, columns, Doric temples, and burgs rival 
ling those of the Bhine ; the tufts of dark foliage add- 



248 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

ing to the wild effect, and the whole scene glowing 
with brilliant tints like the hues of sunset, or the gor 
geous illumination of some work of art. "Le Por- 
tail " is the entrance to a large cavern in the most 
prominent headland in the range. From the rnouth of 
this vast orifice the echo of the hoarse waters, as they 
roll into its jaws, is sent back like the roar of a volca 
no. No arched gateway was ever constructed in such 
massive proportions. Entering the dim recesses of the 
cavern by a winding passage, a few hundred feet, the 
visitor is within a rotunda awful in grandeur; the 
grim and massive walls, the lofty stone ceiling support 
ed by pillars sculptured by the hand of nature in rude 
magnificence, the gigantic archway, and the floor of 
clear deep water, form a scene to which no artist s pen 
cil could do justice. The light from the entrance, soft 
ened in the cavern to a dim twilight, is reflected from 
a reef of pebbles at the extremity of one of the deep 
est and darkest passages leading to a wide semi-circular 
curve of shore, where the walls have been undermined 
and have fallen into the lake in ruinous masses. The 
boat may pass out of the cavern by another entrance 
than the main one. 

Here and there a silver thread of a waterfall flings 
itself from the summit of the cliff at one bound into 
the lake, or a broader cascade gushes from the rock, 
its snowy foam contrasting with the rich colors of the 
beetling rocks. At one point, half-way up, is a natural 
chapel of rock, the pillars of which seem finely sculp 
tured and are wreathed with moss and foliage ; it is 
about thirty feet in height, the arch fifteen. It is said 



KEWEENA POINT. 249 

that service has been performed in this primitive sanc 
tuary ; and that some Indians were there converted to 
Christianity by the preaching of a missionary. " Mon 
ument Eock," with its mossgrown pillars, towers con 
spicuous, bordered by a cascade springing in two 
bounds to the water ; another monument half embed 
ded in foliage is passed, and the magnificent scene be 
gins to fade from the view. 

All along the shore of the lake, islets of moss-cov 
ered granite, or fringed with pines, starting abruptly 
from the deep, are a remarkable feature. Sometimes 
a chain of them extends far out from a promontory. 
Granite Point is a bluff two hundred feet high, rising 
from the lake, and connected with the main land by a 
.neck of sandstone and a cluster of rocky islands. Ke- 
weena Point is described as a beautiful spot. The shore 
is wooded with pine, cedar, aspen and spruce to the 
water s edge : it is cut into small bays and broken and 
projecting precipices ; huge masses of rock are lying 
out in the lake, and high, conical mountains appear in 
the distance. Waterfalls are leaping down from the 
wooded cliffs, and there are green and lovely recesses, 
in which has been found literally " the rose without 
the thorn." The Indians have a tradition, that a par 
ty passing round this point and approaching Bea 
ver Island, were terrified by the apparition of a gigan 
tic female form ; and for a long time no savage could 
be prevailed on to trespass on the interdicted region. 
Manitou Island is said also to be haunted by a demon. 
Within view of this are the Marquette Iron Works. At 
Carp Kiver several small rocky islands rise abruptly 
11* 



250 SUMMER EAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

from the lake, each crowned with its growth of ever 
greens, a safe home for the wild seabirds that are skim 
ming the wave in all directions ; to the left is the range 
of Iron Mountains, the crest of some veiled by clouds. 
The view from Totosh or Breast Mountain, is 
described by Schoolcraft as magnificent. In front 
is the boundless expanse of the lake, with its archi 
pelago of islands and peninsulas; eastward appear 
the white cliffs of Grand Island and the Pictured 
Rocks ; westward the coast as far as the Huron Isl 
ands, embracing a succession of peninsulas surmount 
ed by cliffs, the outline of each growing fainter in the 
distance ; southward a sea of granite cones filling up 
the vista as far as the eye can reach. At Copper Har 
bor, Fort Wilkins is visible from the water, its flag 
overtopping the foliage ; near it lies a beautiful lake 
two hundred feet above the level of Superior, shadowed 
by a grove of dark evergreens and surrounded by con 
ical mountains. The loveliest spot on the shore is Eagle 
Harbor, a " quiet, spirit-stealing nook," with its bright 
bijou of a bay, light-house, rocky islets, and forest-cir 
cled curve, its smooth white shore, its groves of pine, 
cedar, spruce and tamarac, with here and there an 
Indian lodge ; its rustic settlement, its winding stream 
and picturesque woods ; the fir- crowned mountains be 
yond, with the buried wealth of their copper mines, 
and the misty outline of Porcupine Mountains extend 
ing far out in the lake. These mountains are said to 
be over thirteen hundred feet in height, and the Hu 
ron Mountains are nearly as lofty. The valley of 
Eagle Eiver is bounded by abrupt overhanging cliffs, 



FEATUEES OF THE COUNTRY. 251 

some several hundred feet high, and the rock-bound 
coast stretches miles onward. Two miles south of the 
lake, among the Porcupine Mountains, is a gorge said 
to be five hundred feet deep, with a small lake cradled 
in its depths, in the clear waters of which gloomy 
evergreens are reflected. This picturesque sheet of 
water is the source of Carp River. 

The scenery of the whole shore from Whitefish 
Point to the Isles of .the Apostles, is of this diversi 
fied character ; unbroken forests in which the ever 
greens of the North mingle their dark verdure, small 
recent clearings at long intervals, the smoke of distant 
mines curling above the woods upon the mountains ; 
the range of rocky highlands with broken, precipitous 
sides; deep bays, unsunned streams, promontories 
stretching miles into the water, cliffs upreared as gi 
gantic buttresses against the roaring waves, wooded 
islets starting from the deep, the rugged outline of 
rock inland, and lofty mountains covered with their 
ancient garniture of woods ; such are the general fea 
tures of the country with the addition of the keen, 
invigorating air, .the waters crystal clear, the brilliant 
blue of heaven and -the northern lights so vivid that 
twilight lingers till midnight. The forests of cedar 
and spruce on the rocky shores of Isle Royale, with 
their dark green boughs interlaced and wreathed with 
festoons of moss, are fine specimens of the growth of 
these northern woods. But little justice can be done 
by description to the varied and sublime scenery of 
this inland sea; it is of itself well worth a tour of ob 
servation from the farthest part of the continent. 



252 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

La Pointe, an ancient post, formerly the headquar 
ters of the fur-trading company, is on the end of Mad 
eline Island. It is rightly named, for it seems the ex 
treme point of the civilized globe, and might have 
been copied in Hogarth s picture of the world s end. 
The air of vigorous life belonging to the new settle 
ments is wholly wanting here ; every thing looks old 
and worn out ; the tumble down pickets that formerly 
inclosed the settlement, its ruined fort, its range of di 
lapidated dwellings, the stunted aspect of the trees and 
shrubs, and the lazy, careless air of the few French 
traders and the half-breeds lounging about the 
wharves, In almost every direction may be seen en 
campments of Indians ; a large body of the Chippe- 
was whose lands were ceded several years ago, con 
tinuing to live here. The only link between them and 
civilization is their propensity to bargaining, and ar 
raying themselves in such fantastic finery as they can 
afford to purchase, which forms, with their paint and fea 
thers, a ludicrous mixture of costumes. The warriors 
go armed with tomahawks and scalping knives, but 
seem entirely peaceable when not infuriated with 
liquor. They had little reason to be pleased with our 
coming, the object having been to remove them to 
Fond du Lac by order of government. The chiefs 
held a council, and manifested such unwillingness to 
go that no effort was made to compel them. Some of 
the braves rewarded our complaisance, with the privi 
lege of hearing their songs and whoops and seeing a 
war-dance around a pole from which streamed the flag 
of the Union. Several offered their bows and arrows, 



CHIPPEWAS. 253 

pipes, etc. for sale, and one who wore a cap made of a 
heron skin, the feathers of the tail and wings fashioned 
into a plume that waved with every breeze, touched it 
with the significant "how schwap? " which seemed to 
be all they understood of English. I could not pre 
vail on another to part with his bear s claw necklace, 
even by large offers. 

We had arrived very early in the morning, and 
had an opportunity of observing their manner of lodg 
ing, by peeping into several of the wigwams. These 
are of different fashion from those of the Sioux, both 
ends of a long pole being driven into the ground, forming 
a rounded frame, and this covered with strips of birch 
bark. The fire" is built in the centre, the smoke escap 
ing through a hole in the roof, and around it a dozen 
or more, young and old, male and female, were lying 
on mats or blankets, with their feet to the fire. In 
one I saw a Frenchman, lying a little apart from the 
rest, and in another a medicine man chanting a prayer 
over a sick child, accompanying it with the monoto 
nous beat of a drum. 

A story was here related by a person who had spent 
much time among the Ojibvyas, which illustrates some 
of their customs. Ondaig (the Crow), the son of one 
of their most powerful chiefs, was brave and generous, 
and had distinguished himself in the chase, and in 
several excursions against the Sioux. He had taken up 
his winter abode, with his wife and little son, at some 
distance from his band, according to the custom when 
game was scarce ; and one morning started for a deer 
hunt after a light fall of snow. His wife thought little 



254 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

of his not returning at night, but when the third day 
passed, she left her boy in the lodge with the dog for 
his companion, and set off in search of her husband. 
Following his track in the snow, till night, she found 
his blanket on a stick, by which she knew something 
must have happened. Dreading to meet the fatal 
knowledge, and anxious for her child, she retraced her 
steps, and pursuing her journey through the night, 
reached the wigwam the next morning. She then 
sought aid from her nearest neighbor, and with her 
friends again set off to seek the hunter. They en 
camped where they found the blanket, and on the 
following morning discovered Ondaig s body leaning 
against a tree, and stiffened in death, his favorite dog 
crouched at his feet, and almost exhausted with 
hunger. The branch of a tree must have struck him 
in falling, for his skull was fractured ; he had probably 
cut down the tree to capture some animal, and had 
retained consciousness for a few moments after the 
blow ; for the tracks in the snow showed that he had 
walked several times round the tree ; and his gun, 
and the bag containing his tobacco and ammunition, 
were beside him. 

There was lamentation in the village when the 
Indians returned with the remains of the brave Ondaig. 
To have fallen in battle, or perished by tortures in the 
midst of enemies would have been a glorious death; 
but it was hard to die alone in the wilderness like a 
wild beast. The funeral of the young chief which 
the narrator attended, was performed with the cere 
monies due a warrior of repute. The faithful dog 



STORY OF ONDAIG. 255 

that had been the only witness of his death, was killed 
and laid beside him, with his war and hunting imple 
ments ; his pipe, tobacco and some provisions being 
placed at his feet. A great feast was prepared, the 
meat consisting of dog s flesh, the relatives of the 
deceased, and the chiefs and warriors of his tribe, con 
ducting the ceremonies in profound silence, dressed in 
their war costumes, with their faces blackened. The 
nearest relatives were clad in rags, painted black, and 
had their hair dishevelled. After the feast, and incan 
tations recited by one of their priests, the body was 
borne to the grave, those who accompanied it dancing 
and singing a wild chant, and dancing around the 
grave for half an hour after the dead was laid in it. 
Another solemn feast was then held at the lodge of 
Ondaig s aged father. Daily offerings of tobacco, sugar, 
and other luxuries, were laid on the mound raised 
over the grave, by the mourning friends, and frequently 
a group might be seen seated there, smoking and 
feasting, while their tears were flowing for the deceased. 
The widow was doomed to five years servitude among 
her husband s relations, according to their custom, the 
length of time being always in proportion to the esteem 
in which the deceased was held while living, but never 
exceeding five or six years. All kinds of labor, menial 
offices, and even blows must be submitted to by the 
bereaved wife, who is considered the property of the 
nearest relative. The widow of Ondaig accordingly 
received the severest treatment in the lodge of her 
father-in-law (the Buffalo), unkindness and taunts to 
her being esteemed a proper tribute to the memory of 
her husband. 



256 SUMMER KAMBLES IN THE WEST. 



XV. 



"I WOULD rather," said an intelligent traveller, "have 
seen the Mammoth Cave than Niagara." Many des 
criptions of its wonders have been published, yet 
such is the variety of these that each visitor is tempted 
to record his own impressions, perhaps with the vain 
idea that his picture may do something of the justice 
others have failed to render. "Without any such hope, 
and merely with the intent of provoking among my 
readers curiosity to see for themselves, I offer a mere 
sketch hastily noted down after a walk through the 
cave. A fuller description I thought at the time un 
necessary, as a lady of our party intended to prepare 
one for a volume of travels. 

"Bell s Hotel " the proprietor of which, with his 
snow-white locks, and rough, but kind mariners, is a 
curiosity in himself is on the stage road from Louis 
ville to Nashville, seven or eight miles from the cave. 
The road to the cave is irregular, stony and shock 
ing, with abrupt descents and steep ascents, and with 
horses as refractory as those provided for our party, 
you may stand a chance (excuse the Hibernianism) to 
walk most of the way. On the top of the last hill you 
enter a gate and cross a lawn of smooth verdure, sur- 



ENTKANCE TO THE MAMMOTH CAVE. 257 

rounded by a range of cabins, drawing up in front of 
a respectable, ancient looking hotel, the hive to which 
belongs this swarm of rustic domicils. Into one of 
these you are presently conducted. It is built of logs 
whitewashed, and between the chinks a little sunshine 
is visible here and there ; windows in front and rear 
furnish a refreshing draught of air ; the middle of the 
floor is covered with a piece of carpet, and a fourpost- 
bed, a small table, a looking-glass, and a few wooden 
chairs complete the furniture. Abundance of water 
and clean coarse towels show, however, that the chief 
requisite to comfort is not neglected. Having dined, 
supposing your drive or walk from Bell s to have 
taken up the greater part of the morning, you are 
desirous of a visit to the palace of gnomes. A winding 
path through picturesque woods leads to a little dell, 
where you see the mouth. It is not very large, but 
the cold draught of air that meets you as you step 
down from the first ledge of rocks, and the blank 
gloom glaring from the abyss within, give one a shud 
dering sensation at first. The rock is festooned and 
covered with moss of the richest green, the sides are 
curtained with foliage, and a small broken ladder rest 
ing against the space, overgrown with moss, is a pic 
turesque object. You now descend several feet ; the 
guide is ready, and a lighted lamp is put into the 
hand of each of the party, with a direction to shade it 
carefully, that it may not be extinguished by the cur 
rent of air felt for a few moments after entering. 
Leaving the daylight you go on by a narrow vaulted 
passage, passing the "Kentucky Cliffs," till you emerge 



258 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

in " the Kotunda," where the ceiling rises to a con 
siderable height, and the walls recede, forming a large 
apartment. Several wooden pipes and troughs for 
merly used in the manufacture of saltpetre, are seen 
in the cave for the first mile or so. Passing under 
the "Grand Arch," a lofty avenue, the ceiling of 
which is smooth as sculptured stone, the " Church " is 
reached, nearly a mile from the entrance. This is a 
spacious hall with irregular rocky sides, which derives 
its name from a ledge of rocks resembling a pulpit, forty 
or fifty feet in height. Sermons have been preached 
in this place, and I know not where words of solemn 
import could be so impressively uttered. The visitor 
finds little fatigue, unless previously exhausted in 
walking ; for there is a peculiar quality in the atmos 
phere, which invigorates the whole frame, and renders 
the step light and buoyant. It is said that nothing 
will decay within the cave, and meat is preserved for 
weeks by being placed near the entrance. The tem 
perature of the atmosphere never varies during the 
year, and on this account it has proved beneficial to 
persons afflicted with pulmonary complaints. Beyond 
the Church are low stone houses, with floored apart 
ments in which invalids have resided for months. At 
one time there was quite a street of those dwellings, 
the inmates of which, it is said, were very sociable 
and merry in their exclusion from daylight ; but most 
of the habitations have been pulled down. The pro 
prietor of the grounds found it necessary to prevent 
the thronging of sick persons to the cave, as many of 
them, beyond cure, died and were buried in the 
vicinity. 



., 

THE STAK-CHAMBEK. 259 

After passing the Church, the gypsum "formations 
begin to assume a singular character, resembling streaks 
of snow on a dark ground. The ceiling is very lofty, 
and the avenues wide, conducting to a weird region, 
like Eiibezahrs Hall. Presently we enter the " Star- 
Chamber." This is, in my opinion, the most wonder 
ful of all the marvels of the cave. You seem to stand 
in the bottom of a narrow, deep ravine, and look up 
to the vault of a dark sky. 

On either side far up the rugged steep 
Towering like giant cliffs of some deep rift 
Cleft in the mountain s breast ; upon its crest 
A crown of snow, touched by the moon s pale beam ; 
Above, an arch like midnight s hyaline, 
Studded with myriad stars ! The fleecy clouds 
Like flakes of silver lie beneath ; all still, 
For no breeze gives them motion ; and the stars 
Gleam in quick scintillations, till it seems 
The solid roof is cleft, and on our gaze 
Heaven s own bright lamps are burning ! There the Dove 
Spreads her soft pinions ; there the Pleiades 
Shine on their silver throne ; with keener eye 
Looks forth Orion, and the radiant Ship 
. That round the firmament hung like a sea 
From immemorial time has sailed ! 

The grand proportions of this place, and the height 
of the mysterious firmament, favor the illusion, which 
is so perfect that it is difficult to persuade yourself 
you are not gazing upon the midnight heaven. A 
fine effect is produced by the removal of the lights to 
a distant point among the rocks. 

The " Gothic Avenue" is reached by ascending a 
flight of steps on the right, after passing the Church ; 



260 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

it is lofty and spacious. Beyond is the " Haunted 
Chamber," a more humble apartment, so called from 
the fact that Indian mummies were found in one of its 
recesses. It is easy to imagine that the cave might 
have been used as a place of sepulture by an aboriginal 
race; though bodies have never been found in any 
other part of it. The next place of note is the " Gothic 
Chapel," a vast chamber, interspersed with stalactites 
of a dark color, resembling gothic pillars wreathed 
with elaborate ornaments, with richly fretted ceiling 
and walls, and an altar of curious workmanship, in- 
crusted with tangled masses of ornamental carving. 
The guide took our lamps, and hung them upon differ 
ent pillars, greatly heightening the effect, and giving 
the chapel the appearance of being lighted up for a 
midnight funeral ceremony. The visitor who admires 
the sublime in picturesque scenery, will linger long in 
this solemn and strangely beautiful sanctuary of nature. 
There is but one thing to mar the effect, and that is, 
the number of names smoked on the ceiling. Through 
all parts of the cave which are usually visited, this 
hateful practice has defaced the walls. 

Beyond the chapel is a curious intertwining of for 
mations called the " Devil s Arm Chair," Ammett s 
Dome, etc. But few go farther in this branch. The 
route usually taken by those who wish to explore is a 
different one, and requires the devotion of an entire 
day ; so that you will be kind enough, in imagination, 
to retrace your steps, and return to the open air ; paus 
ing to observe, as the first gleam of daylight greets the 
vision, how beautifully it flashes across " the raven 
down of darkness." 



PASSAGE TO THE RIVEK. 261 

On the following morning, after a very early break 
fast, the ladies arrayed themselves in costume resem 
bling the " Bloomer," as picturesque as red or blue 
flannel could make it, and commenced the pilgrimage 
anew. Not far from the Church is a curious fragment 
of rock called the " Giant s Coffin," from its shape ; 
behind this is a narrow, descending pathway, over 
which the rocks project so as to render stooping neces 
sary ; this leads to the subterranean river. This laby 
rinthine way enters the "Deserted Chamber." "Fat 
Man s Misery" is a winding passage between rocky 
walls, distressing to such worthies as emulate Daniel 
Lambert. " The Bacon Eoom" is thickly hung with 
stalactites of a uniform size, resembling hams incased 
in whitewashed coverings. I cannot pretend to give 
the names of all the halls, avenues, apartments, pits, 
etc., we passed ; such an enumeration would be tedious, 
as many of the places are named merely for the con 
venience of designation, or to determine distances. 
Sometimes we entered a chamber from which there 
seemed no possible egress, till, on ascending a heap of 
rocks, an opening appeared in the ceiling, with a lad 
der ; or a similar one in the floor disclosed a flight of 
steps; or some unexpected turn showed a narrow 
opening, concealed by projecting rocks, which con 
ducted to spacious halls, where new marvels were seen. 
These openings were presented continually; some 
times so small as hardly to admit the body, and all 
leading to avenues and branches of the cave. The 
number of these branches, and the complexity of the 
labyrinthine passages, render it dangerous for any 



262 SUMMER RAMBLES IN" THE WEST. 

visitor, unattended by a guide, to attempt an explora 
tion. 

The voice of the guide is heard about this time, 
warning against the pits that threaten to swallow up 
the unwary traveller ; the largest of these, however, 
are sufficiently fenced for the purpose of security. 
"Side-saddle Pit" is the first deep one ; a fragment of 
burning paper thrown down, or a Bengal light, dis 
closes a fearful abyss, not much wider than a well. 
The " Bottomless Pit," further on, across the wooden 
bridge, is yet more appalling. Leaning over the frail 
fence, you peer into a fathomless profundity of gloom, 
the uttermost spaces of which cannot be seen even by 
the glaring lustre of the torch. Stones thrown down 
rattle against the sides, but are not heard to touch the 
bottom; being probably buried in the mud. The 
guide informed us he had frequently been let down in 
a basket. 

Many objects of curiosity were passed, each worthy 
of a particular description. One large fragment of 
rock is called the " Great Western," from its resem 
blance to a ship. "Martha s Vineyard" is reached by 
climbing a tall ladder ; the formations, in size, shape 
and color, are like rich clusters of grapes, a winding 
crevice in the roof serving for the vine. On the side 
of this place appears an opening above a precipitous 
wall, reached by clambering from ledge to ledge ; it 
leads, Stephen informed us, to "Purgatory," so called 
because it was " a tight place to get through ; " . a pas 
sage visitors sometimes take to the river. Another 
wonder of the cave, not now visited on account of the 



THE DEAD SEA ECHO RIVER. 263 

difficulty of access, is a small chamber above, called 
the "Holy Sepulchre," where is a rock shaped exactly 
like a tomb. Above this is suspended a single im 
mense stalactite, which, when struck, gave a sound 
like the tolling of a bell, till injured by a sacrilegious 
visitor, who broke off a piece. In the ledges of these 
rocks are cool, gushing springs, some of which fling 
down their tributes in miniature cascades. There are 
said to be several cataracts in the cave, but we could 
not obtain a sight of any. 

After passing " the black hole of Calcutta," an 
unguarded pit an abyss on one side roofed with rock, 
through the rifts in which stones fall plashing into 
water, is the " Dead Sea." It is the beginning of the 
river, which further on is called "Styx," and is crossed 
on an arch of rocks termed the " Natural Bridge." 
The walking in many places hereabouts is slippery and 
difficult. "Lake Lethe," the first portion of the river 
on which the traveller embarks, in the small flat boat 
moored at its side, is a dark, sullen stream, walled in by 
precipitous rocks, and is said to be of considerable 
depth. Fish are caught in these, waters of small size, 
white, and destitute of eyes, which are preserved in 
alcohol, and sold as curiosities. The only other living 
creature except crickets, found is a kind of rat, also 
white, bearing some resemblance to a squirrel. Not a 
shred of vegetation is seen. 

The next portion of water scenery is called "Echo 
Eiver" and well it is named; for strains of more 
dulcet melody and deliciously plaintive cadences were 
never called forth by the Nightingale herself, than float 



264 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

through these rocky recesses in answer to notes of music. 
The plash of the oar sounded like the gibbering of 
spirit voices. The massive roof bends at intervals to 
within a few feet of the dark waters, which wind 
their way picturesquely between the cliffs. 

There is a place, where viewless spirits of sound 
Their birth-place have, deep hidden from the day ; 
Where solid mountains piled, o erarch the dome, 
And rivers wander, hemmed by bending rocks, 
In the embrace of everlasting night ; 
And there the inner harmonies of earth 
Sleep in their caves ; or, waked too suddenly, 
Utter their plaint in murmurs quick and soft, 
Dying in faintest cadence, till again 
Old silence drinks the tones ; or roused to glee, 
Fill all the air with dancing melodies ; 
Fling sportive whisperings to the sullen wave 
With sweet unearthly voices, each wild note 
By myriads answered in receding music. 
Till mortal sense, bewildered, seems to hear 
The echo of the distant harps of heaven. 

Some three miles of rough and tedious walking 
over broken and jagged rocks bring you to the most 
beautiful parts of the cave. "Cleveland s Cabinet" 
is a museum of wonders. Fancy apartments thickly 
encrusted with small glistening stalactites, flowers, 
leaves, and wreaths of snowy whiteness, walls and ceil 
ing converted into a luxuriant arbor, where the mimic 
foliage is interspersed with fruits and pendent gems, 
all in such dazzling profusion that it mocks the wealth 
of Flora. It is like the most exquisite waxwork, and 
executed with a delicacy and richness no art could 
equal. Eoses, lilies, and garlands of flowers wrought 



SNOWBALL ROOM ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 265 

like nature, and more elaborate than ever adorned Co 
rinthian capital, decorate this wondrous temple. The 
scientific visitor might spend months in the examina 
tion of this delicate tracery, and find something new 
to delight him. 

" Snowball Eoom " is incrusted with lime forma 
tions resembling sparkling snowballs, thickly planted 
on the ceiling and sides. " Diamond Hall " is dazzling 
with the incrustations of mimic gems, that flash back 
the light like jewels of Golconda. Leaving these beau 
tiful lime formations, you proceed, having paid no at 
tention to the avenue leading to " the grotto of Ege- 
ria," for time presses, and the way is yet far. Passing 
other halls, and an interminable avenue, "the Eocky 
Mountains " rise as barriers to further progress. These 
are formed by rocks fallen from the top of the cave, 
and are said to be one hundred feet in height. The 
steep and rough ascent must be climbed by the adven 
turous wanderer ; for nature remits not her penalties 
for any who venture so far into her weird sanctuary. 
Having reached the top, a glance to the right shows a 
broken space, filled with thick and heavy darkness ; 
and presently a crimson light on the farther side at 
one or two points, throws a fitful illumination on the 
"Dismal Hollow," a place that seems the chosen re 
treat of the gnomes that range in the central regions 
of the earth. It calls to mind all the tales of genii, 
and wild subterranean haunts of robbers that beguiled 
our childhood, till the imagination kindles with the 
strange romance of the scene. A steep but easy de 
scent conducts to " Serena s Harbor," the termination 
12 



266 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

of this branch of the cave. Here a grove of stalac 
tites of a yellowish color, with arched roof and smooth 
floor, offers a pleasant resting place. Nine miles have 
been traversed from the entrance, and you wish to be 
lifted to upper air through some chasm in the roof. No 
such friendly rift, however, appears, and your only re 
source is to retrace your steps through the crystal 
chambers, and across the mysterious rivers. You find 
the daylight fading from the sky as you emerge from 
the cave; or if you have done justice to its beauties, 
the night will be far advanced towards another dawn. 
" Goram s Dome" is usually spoken of as the great 
est curiosity in the cave, and is in its deepest part. The 
path leading to it turns off to the right from the Bot 
tomless Pit ; and after descending ladders and flights 
of steps, sometimes winding along the verge of rocky 
dells, and treading low winding passages, you stand 
before an opening in the solid rock, resembling a 
Gothic window. Looking through this, you see a cham 
ber four or five hundred feet in height, the arched dome 
of which, seen when illuminated, is regular and smooth 
as sculptured marble, as are the sides of its profound 
depths, to the bottom of which the eye cannot reach. 
The peculiar feature of the apartment is a partition 
wall, resembling a vast curtain, the carved cornices 
and architraves of which mock the triumphs of art. 
The water trickling down the folds of this massive 
drapery alone breaks the solemn silence. Some thirty 
feet down, the wall is abruptly cut off, and overhangs 
the well below. It will be long before the gazer can 
turn away from a sight so full of grandeur. 



INCIDENT IN THE CAVE. 267 

Many other places remained unvisited on account 
of the brief time at our disposal. "Bats Chamber," 
where myriads of these creatures cling to the wall mo 
tionless, is near the entrance. "Lake Purity" is a 
small sheet at the foot of a hill of rocks, and several 
more were described by visitors who had been able to 
spend weeks in the vicinity. We were obliged to con 
tent ourselves with the knowledge that we had seen 
more than the majority. The cave is said to contain 
two hundred and twenty-six avenues, and forty-seven 
domes. The walking is generally dry, and not dan 
gerous if the directions of the guide are followed. 
No one should venture without such a companion, for 
he would be almost certain to lose his way among the 
intricate passages. Accidents sometimes happen un 
der the best auspices. We found the oil exhausted at 
one of the oil stations, and were obliged to extinguish 
some of our lamps to provide against an emergency. 
A young gentleman who was spending the beginning 
of his honeymoon at the cave, came near meeting with 
serious inconvenience from a piece of negligence of 
this sort. He was going alone to the end with the guide, 
who left him for half an hour to make an excursion. 
During his absence, desirous of experiencing the effect 
of total darkness, he extinguished his lamp. As they 
were walking on, the guide s lamp suddenly went out ; 
his own, having a small remnant of oil, continued to 
burn, though more and more dimly. Their walk was 
now quickened to a run, and by good luck they 
had arrived within sight of the next oil station, 
when tey were immersed in utter darkness. Had 



268 SUMMER RAMBLES IN THE WEST. 

it not been for the fortunate accident of extinguishing 
his lamp, they would have been compelled to remain, 
seven miles from the entrance, until missed and sent 
for from the hotel, for not the most experienced guide 
could grope his way safely more than a few yards. 

"White s Cave" is about three quarters of a mile 
distant, and is described as filled with formations of 
remarkable beauty. The whole country, indeed, abounds 
in subterranean chambers, being a perfect honeycomb, 
it is said, beneath the surface of the earth. 



THE END. 



THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE 
STAMPED BELOW 



AN INITIAL FINE OF 25 CENTS 

WILL BE ASSESSED FOR FAILURE TO RETURN 
THIS BOOK ON THE DATE DUE. THE PENALTY 
WILL INCREASE TO SO CENTS ON THE FOURTH 
DAY AND TO $1.OO ON THE SEVENTH DAY 
OVERDUE. 




JJW44 



wwm NOVS-"- 



NOV 3 



! YE 2007 i 



U.C. BERKELEY LIBRARIES 




914500 



6 



THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY 



